T3x hard bolt lift after firing

Overdrive

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Aug 10, 2018
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I would think if it's a chamber issue you'd be getting excessive scratches on the brass when you go to extract it, are you seeing any of this? I was having a similar issue years ago with my Remington Sendero, I was running a hot load but not every shot was causing the bolt to stick maybe every 4-5 rounds would. Long story short I was at the Gun Range and an older gentlemen saw I was having issues and came over, said his son had experienced the same thing and they found that the lube from sizing the brass during the reloading process wasn't completely gone allowing the brass to push back against the bolt face enough to it hard to expand. I did as he suggested and cleaned all my reloads up with Alcohol and cleaned the chamber really well and since then I haven't had an issue. But that still doesn't address your factory ammo unless it's not completely cleaned.
 
OP
E

E in CO

Lil-Rokslider
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Mar 27, 2016
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Overdrive, that is an interesting thought...I use Hornady sizing wax on my cases then a dry towel to wipe it off after sizing. Also doesn’t explain the factory loads as you mentioned. Maybe this could be another factor that when all added up results in an issue that I’m having. Also maybe there is a build up of the wax in the chamber from the last time I cleaned it which could explain the issue with factory loads. I’ll give the chamber a good swab and the cases too. It can’t hurt and might help. If the chamber is really tight and the FL die is on the larger side then the wax could build up like you suggested. I sent the FL die back to Hornady to check spec as well. Using the Redding Body Die seemed to reduce the frequency of the hard bolt lift yesterday. I only had to arm wrestle the bolt 2x out of 20 which is a little progress. Thanks!
 
OP
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E in CO

Lil-Rokslider
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Mar 27, 2016
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Just to close this out in case someone else has a similar issue. I did about all of the above And had some improvements but not complete resolution. So, for giggles I took the bolt apart and cleaned And lubed it again. Also backed out the action screws and torqued to min per tikka manual. Then this morning I Fired 3 loads of 10 rounds each with one load at the book max with h4350. I had no problems with the hard bolt lift and no apparent pressure signs. it was the 3rd loading on the brass. I will get my hornady sizing die back from warranty today so I don’t know if that was part of my problem Or not. What seems to have helped was pushing the shoulder back a little more than usual with the Redding body die, making sure no sizing wax build up in the Chamber and min torque on the action screws. Maybe the bolt disassembly helped but it didn’t seem too bad from the last time I Just did this. Just my guess cause I tried so many things at the same time that it’s hard To pinpoint the actual solution. But 30 rounds with 10 of them at upper book loads With no Hard bolt lift issues was something I couldn’t achieve before. I think I found my load at book max with 10 rounds into 1.03” center to center. I’m fine with that but I didn’t check my speed, SD or ES but will next time out. Thanks to all that shared their ideas to help me sort out this puzzle!
 
OP
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E in CO

Lil-Rokslider
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Mar 27, 2016
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Quick clarification. I was going from memory on the Spec for the action screws torque. I dont know what tikka recommends but I’m running 35 in lbs front and back now. I know it was set considerable higher before. The factory t3x stock is bedded but no pillars.
 

Juan_ID

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Feb 25, 2012
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How far did you bump the shoulder back? I too have been having a similar issue (hard/hanging bolt lift) with a new t3x, which only seems to be a problem when using already fired brass. Same load with new brass and there’s no hard bolt lift. I took case measurements and came to the conclusion it has to do with case expansion too. Should clarify, the load is just over book max
 
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OP
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E in CO

Lil-Rokslider
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I ended up bumping the shoulder 0.004” to a touch more and switched my FL die to a Redding body die. I’m no expert but While I was chasing my tail on this thing it was part of the list of things I did that helped.
 

SDHNTR

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I’d be willing to bet money that bumping that shoulder back was the solution.

now, measure your fired brass headspace length at the shoulder on the ones that ejected easily versus the ones that did not. That will answer your question... I’ll bet the ones that were stiff are just a bit longer.
 

PA Hunter

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Make sure your trim length of brass is correct. I reload for a friend who just rebarreled his rifle and I had to trim back a little further not to get tight bolt after firing.
 
OP
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E in CO

Lil-Rokslider
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Mar 27, 2016
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I’ve been watching the shoulder bump and trim length through this. The length hasn’t stretched much If at all after firing nor after shoulder bump. Your idea that the brass could need trimming...and Now I’m thinking maybe more trimming than spec would suggest Is worth a try. All seems to point to a few tighter chamber dimensions than what the ‘smith and I thought (e.g. body, neck and length). Also I got the Hornday FL sizer die back and they said it was in spec. However the Redding body die definitely sizes the case body a bit more and has helped. I think the next batch will have a bit more shoulder bump and maybe a bit more trimming than usual and see how that goes with heavier charges. My last time out things settled down but a little more margin for reliable functioning is a good thing imo. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions.
 
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Dec 19, 2018
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Have the same issue with T3 in 6.5 PRC… Virgin brass no issues. Once fired after proper trim length, FL size and bump shoulder 3 thousands. My bolt lift won’t eject on the second stage of ejection. Once I get to the second stage of lifting the blot, I have to turn my fist into a hammer and beat on the blot….
 

Marble

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May 29, 2019
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I had this happening on a factory rifle. It was the ejector button on the bolt face. It had intermittent hard to lift issues as you described. Eventually it got stuck permanently and wouldn't push a shell out. I disassembled and cleaned it discovering a tiny piece of bread preventing the button from going on and out freely.

Mine only did it for a dozen or so rings before the button froze.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

EdP

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Are you shooting over a chronograph? If so, how do velocities compare between rounds with normal bolt lift vs the sticky bolt. More velocity is the result of higher pressure so it could point you to the issue. I think most, or maybe all, of the bullets you listed are secant ogive. I seem to get some loads with secant ogive bullets that are 100 fps faster than group average despite my best efforts to maintain consistent jump to the lands.
 
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The back end of your chamber is too tight, this is common on min spec custom reamers
Ask the smith to open it up a touch
Edited to add, don’t try to shorten your brass any more by excessive sizing, you will create headspace issues
 
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