Switch Barrel Tikka Setup

[sram9102]

Ran across a post on different forum of a guy running a multiple barrel setup in a tikka. He was having flats milled at the muzzle end of the barrel and just torquing them on and off as needed. Anybody here tried that method? Seems like an decent idea to have multiple chamberings out of one optic/stock setup.

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[TxxAgg]

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[AZ_Hunter_2000]

I could see a special need for this such as hunting plains game and dangerous game in Africa and you only wanted to bring a single rifle and optic. Swap out whatever is required, confirm your zero, and go hunt whatever you are after.

I don't "agree" with saving money on optics as you can get "quick disconnects" for your scope mount and move it amongst rifles. But..

1) The optic is a single point of failure. No more shooting until it is replaced or repaired.
2) The rifle, and any sub-component, is a single point of failure. No more shooting until it is replaced or repaired.
3) Would need to check your zero with every barrel change. This is more of a nuisance but does add to the total cost.
4) Potential for bad things to happen if you chamber the wrong cartridge with the wrong barrel. Could damage your rifle, your barrel, your underwear, yourself, others, etc.

But this is America, at least for the time being. If it is legal, feel free to do whatever floats your boat.

 

[Gorp2007]

Criterion does Tikka pre-fits with a barrel nut system. A torque wrench and a set of go/no-go gauges and you’re off to the races.

 

[Reburn]

I could see a special need for this such as hunting plains game and dangerous game in Africa and you only wanted to bring a single rifle and optic. Swap out whatever is required, confirm your zero, and go hunt whatever you are after.

I don't "agree" with saving money on optics as you can get "quick disconnects" for your scope mount and move it amongst rifles. But..

1) The optic is a single point of failure. No more shooting until it is replaced or repaired.
2) The rifle, and any sub-component, is a single point of failure. No more shooting until it is replaced or repaired.
3) Would need to check your zero with every barrel change. This is more of a nuisance but does add to the total cost.
4) Potential for bad things to happen if you chamber the wrong cartridge with the wrong barrel. Could damage your rifle, your barrel, your underwear, yourself, others, etc.

But this is America, at least for the time being. If it is legal, feel free to do whatever floats your boat.

Just so I'm clear.
1). If you move your scope how does that not remain a single point of failure. Your telling me that my 4 barrel switchlug isnt saving me 6k in 3 nightforce scopes? Sure as hell saving me from buying 3 manners. Or 3 more triggertechs.
2). What can fail? The trigger?
3). Not if your using offsets in strelok and your barrel change repeats to a same POI or withing 0.5 moa. I can screw on another barrel and cold bore a 10" gong at 500. screw on another barrel dial the offset and do the same.
4). That can happen with any gun. What makes it easier to do with a switch lug system? If anything your more aware of what bolt and barrel you have on the gun and grab the correct ammo and put everything else up.

 

[Reburn]

instead of torquing barrels on and off I went this route. Been very happy with it.

SWITCHLUG – West Texas Ordnance, Inc. | Custom Rifles & Accessories

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[Vandy321]

I was going to mention WTO as well. I saw a switch-lug tikka at the range there other day, very cool setup.

 

[KClark]

It doesn't work very well with sporter weight barrels and low mounted scopes, there's not enough room between the stock and the scope to slide the barrel forward out of the stock.

Despite that I play Barbie dolls with my Tikkas all the time. I take the barreled action out of the stock, clamp the barrel in a barrel vise and use a rear entry receiver wrench. To re-zero the scope I mount the bore sighter and return the crosshairs to the grid that I logged last time that barrel was on which usually gets it very close but still needs verified with live rounds.

With bull barrels the scope will usually be mounted a bit higher and the barrel channel is big enough to let the barrel slide forward out from under the scope.

 

[wyosam]

Not sure I want to torque on the end of the barrel, but it is probably fine since aftermarket barrels don’t have to be on there like the factory one. Tikka prefits are pretty damn simple to swap out. I don’t buy the “re-zeroing adds to the cost” argument. Assuming these barrels shoot, and you have a good optic, you should really be very near to zero on the second shot, confirm with the third.

I doubt that anyone with enough gun interest to build a switch barrel probably has another rifle that will do in the “single point of failure” scenario.

I set out to build a switch barrel Tikka- a 22” carbon barrel to hunt with, and a similar contour SS 26” to leave on most of the year for range fun. I ended up buying another action, because the heavy gun is too much fun to shoot to not always have it available. I didn’t match cartridges anyway (Hunting rifle in 280ai, target in 6.5-284 Norma), so it just became another rifle in the safe.

I suspect I’ll be replacing the 6.5-284 barrel ever year or two, so it is practically a switch barrel.


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[Beendare]

If you are talking about a guy with the handle "Switchbarrel" on the rifle forums.........he has won the National 1,000yd rifle championship...... I think 3 Times. When he posts, its worth listening.

___

 

[AZ_Hunter_2000]

Just so I'm clear.
1). If you move your scope how does that not remain a single point of failure. Your telling me that my 4 barrel switchlug isnt saving me 6k in 3 nightforce scopes? Sure as hell saving me from buying 3 manners. Or 3 more triggertechs.
2). What can fail? The trigger?
3). Not if your using offsets in strelok and your barrel change repeats to a same POI or withing 0.5 moa. I can screw on another barrel and cold bore a 10" gong at 500. screw on another barrel dial the offset and do the same.
4). That can happen with any gun. What makes it easier to do with a switch lug system? If anything your more aware of what bolt and barrel you have on the gun and grab the correct ammo and put everything else up.

I apologize for any misunderstanding.

First, you merged two different statements that I made. I first stated there is no cost savings with optics just because you have multiple barrels. I then followed that statement up with an example of moving a single scope around on multiple rifles to demonstrate that point. Then in a new section of my post I mentioned that if you rely upon a single scope then that is a single point of failure. This is true if you use a single scope and run a single rifle with multiple barrels or multiple rifles. From a savings perspective, there could be a stronger argument for the total cost (rifle, barrels, single optic) being less expensive than multiple rifles and a single optic. It would depend on the cost of the barrels vs the cost of the rifles. However, I do not recall that being brought up.

Second, with most folks the more they disassemble and reassemble something the odds increase that they are going to mess up. Sometimes it can be an easy fix while other times it can mean a broken part. Most folks are human and do periodically make mistakes. What potential issues could arise if someone were to over-torque the barrel? What potential issues could arise if someone were to under-torque the barrel?

Third, fair points on having good data on where everything should be. I even went so far as call it a nuisance and not specifically a drawback. I personally would not be "one and done" with hitting a 10" plate at 500 yards after moving an optic or swapping a barrel. Your response was not expanded upon so I do not know if you'd stop there and be "good to go" or if you would then make an adjustment. Each adjustment/confirmation shot costs a few bucks. While individually it is chump change, it can add up depending on how often your swap barrels or move your optic.

Fourth, you have valid point as there is always a risk. But there's more than one way to address this. I have one rifle that likes ABLR. I have another rifle that likes Berger. I have another rifle that likes ELD-M. Grey tip, no tip, red tip. No need to read head stamps on the brass. No need to read the chambering on the barrel. No confusion as none of the rifles/scope combinations look exactly the same. Now if I had multiple rifles that were the same make/model and had the same scope, or if I used a single rifle/scope with multiple barrels, then I absolutely would be using a very similar approach as what you had mentioned.

 

[Reburn]

I apologize for any misunderstanding.

First, you merged two different statements that I made. I first stated there is no cost savings with optics just because you have multiple barrels. I then followed that statement up with an example of moving a single scope around on multiple rifles to demonstrate that point. Then in a new section of my post I mentioned that if you rely upon a single scope then that is a single point of failure. This is true if you use a single scope and run a single rifle with multiple barrels or multiple rifles. From a savings perspective, there could be a stronger argument for the total cost (rifle, barrels, single optic) being less expensive than multiple rifles and a single optic. It would depend on the cost of the barrels vs the cost of the rifles. However, I do not recall that being brought up.

Second, with most folks the more they disassemble and reassemble something the odds increase that they are going to mess up. Sometimes it can be an easy fix while other times it can mean a broken part. Most folks are human and do periodically make mistakes. What potential issues could arise if someone were to over-torque the barrel? What potential issues could arise if someone were to under-torque the barrel?

Third, fair points on having good data on where everything should be. I even went so far as call it a nuisance and not specifically a drawback. I personally would not be "one and done" with hitting a 10" plate at 500 yards after moving an optic or swapping a barrel. Your response was not expanded upon so I do not know if you'd stop there and be "good to go" or if you would then make an adjustment. Each adjustment/confirmation shot costs a few bucks. While individually it is chump change, it can add up depending on how often your swap barrels or move your optic.

Fourth, you have valid point as there is always a risk. But there's more than one way to address this. I have one rifle that likes ABLR. I have another rifle that likes Berger. I have another rifle that likes ELD-M. Grey tip, no tip, red tip. No need to read head stamps on the brass. No need to read the chambering on the barrel. No confusion as none of the rifles/scope combinations look exactly the same. Now if I had multiple rifles that were the same make/model and had the same scope, or if I used a single rifle/scope with multiple barrels, then I absolutely would be using a very similar approach as what you had mentioned.

Sure its not a problem bud. Sorry if i came in hot.

The cost of a top of the line carbon barrel headspaced, cerakoted and chambered and delivered to me is $1100. That is a bit more then a tikka costs but much less then it takes to reproduce a hells canyon tikka. Or any other custom action in a manners stock with a trigger tech. Then you have the optics for multiple rifles vs one. While you didnt bring all the other stuff up it does serve to prove additional points. However if you just say the $1100 is a wash on what a new gun cost its still cheaper to have 1 gun with 4 barrels vs 4 ready to go guns with 4 ready to go scopes. 4 ready to go guns with 1 scope maybe close to the same price depending on how nice you make the guns.

The second point a agree with. Everytime you take something apart and put it back together you do run the chance of something breaking. I couldnt tell you about what happens if you over torque or under torque a barrel as I use the WTO switch lug. The only catasrophic failure I could see would be over tightening the clamp and stripping out the threads or cross threading the barrel. Im pretty comfortable that they designed the switch lug to take more then the 30 ft lbs which is what fix it stick you use. I am just careful when I swap barrels and take a deep breath. The old mechanics way of if it doesnt go stop and take it out and try again. Never force it.

Third point I can see how that would make sense but I can tell you that your mistaken and here is why. I was demostrating the repeatability of switching barrels and making a cold bore hit on a 2moa gong that can represent the vital on a sheep, elk or even a large mule deer. Although I use a 8" gong for mule deer vitals and a 6" gong on pronghorns and small whitetail. Anyways. What I was trying to say is the system is repeatabe but you must have a good dialing scope and you must have the offsets of where barrel A shoots vs Barrel B shoots POI vs POA. 406smith demonostrated this is another post beautifully on how even a very good 100 yard zero can and noramlly will have a touch of offset to it. You can use programs where you take a picture of the target and it will tell you the offset and group size. Being as I shoot a bunch ammo cost is what it is. There is no more associated cost with running a switchlug vs normal guns for me. Average hunter that shoot 20 rounds a year this is a horrible system that they shoud stay away from. You need to have a firm grasp on ballistics and how to use your chosen ballistics program. This isnt a system I would reccomend for a casual level shooter. I use about 60 rounds just to sight in my barrels. Lets just say 6 10 round groups. 3 10 round groups chronoed and suppressed and 3 10 round groups chronoed and not suppressed. This give me a good data set to build my offsets in my ballistic solver. But I do this on standalone rifles too not just switchlugs. The point is im very comfortable with barrel swaps and being able to hit a cold bore 10" vital gong on an animal at 500 yards everytime drop wise. Wind is always the determing factor when shooting that far. Drop is very easy to solve for.

Fouth point you are right. I take great care when im switching barrels and bolts. All the bullets are red tip hornady on the particular tikka I have been refrencing. when I swap I just do it undistracted verify 3 times and put the other componets up when they can not be accidently grabbed. For me its kinda like clearing a rifle to verify its unloaded. I clear it and look 3 times that is unloaded before I say its unloaded. Same with a barrel swap I verify the bolt vs ammo vs barrel 3 times. Most times I will have the other components out so I can put the ammo with the correct barrel and the correct bolt. I havent had a trip where I felt it was nessecary to take 3 barrels anyways so Im usually just working with 2 sets of componets and the third and fourth set are still at home.

The setup I am using is a tikka switch lug with a 300 wsm barrel, 6mm creedmoor barrel and a 223 barrel. I just ordered a 6.5 prc barrel for this setup. Why did i order another barrel. Just had a itch i guess. The 223 barrel is normally just used for practice so it normally doesnt go on trips. The gun was built to go to africa with in 2020 but that was a F up and we didnt get to go. 2021 not looking to swift either. It was funny that you brought up plains game vs dangerous game in africa.

Picture so you know this isnt all theoretical bullshit. This gun actually exists. As it sits it weighs 8lbs with optics and mags but unloaded without bipod. I like it so much I am building another switchlug in LA. The tikka is a awesome SA to medium action but cant run some of the LA chamberings I would like to play with as well.

 

[PNWGATOR]

Reburn,
Fantastic Tikka! Likely my next build. Did WTO put that together for you?

 

[OutdoorAg]

I tell you what...

If I had the space at home to shoot to confirm zero after a barrel swap, I'd be selling about 4 or 5 guns in my safe and doing exactly what @Reburn has done. Unfortunately, I dont have a home range, and I'd just be causing myself a headache to switch out and hit the range after every swap.

Thats a set up that you can use for anything, anywhere.

Thanks for posting. Fantastic looking switch barrel Tikka.

 

[sram9102]

@Reburn who did that work for you? That seems like the way to go if you want to run multiple barrels.

 

[Reburn]

Reburn,
Fantastic Tikka! Likely my next build. Did WTO put that together for you?

@Reburn who did that work for you? That seems like the way to go if you want to run multiple barrels.

Mike did the build. I supplied the pieces. I had to work around to get all 3 tikka bolts together. It was tricky and costly.
@HellsCanyon

I will say its a complex system that requires a good understanding of ballistics and offsets. Once you grasp it all its pretty easy though. Its my most expensive gun by a bunch. Considering your looking at $3300 or so just in barrels. Tikka bolts as they sit fluted from LRI with the lumely stuff is about $500 each. Then you need a scope that will dial measurements accurately and return to zero reliably.

 

[Reburn]

I tell you what...

If I had the space at home to shoot to confirm zero after a barrel swap, I'd be selling about 4 or 5 guns in my safe and doing exactly what @Reburn has done. Unfortunately, I dont have a home range, and I'd just be causing myself a headache to switch out and hit the range after every swap.

Thats a set up that you can use for anything, anywhere.

Thanks for posting. Fantastic looking switch barrel Tikka.

Once you are comfortable with the gun and put a couple hundred rounds down range I would and have swapped barrels and gone hunting without reverifying zero. Short of a scope failure the barrels return to the same POI everytime I take them on and off. If it changes POI at all its within my capability as a shooter and I cant see it. Scope failure can happen on any gun you dial though that isnt exclusive to switch lugs.

 

[Lawnboi]

Neat setup @Reburn

Is there a benefit to using the switch lug as opposed to just having a barrel vise to torque and take off barrels?

It is nice to have multiple guns.... but man scopes are expensive!

 

[gbflyer]

Most screw - in switch barrels are repeatable within 1MOA, just keep track of the numbers to dial in to the scope. A light barrel vise (doesn’t need to be the beast you need to get a factory Remington off) and a Davidson port entry or rear entry action wrench is all you need with a shouldered barrel. Precise torque is not critical, German torque is fine. Benchrest shooters bring the setup to matches all the time. Probably wouldn’t be something to carry in a backpack but you certainly could rig something up to leave in the truck if that floats your boat.

 

[Reburn]

Neat setup @Reburn

Is there a benefit to using the switch lug as opposed to just having a barrel vise to torque and take off barrels?

It is nice to have multiple guns.... but man scopes are expensive!

Yes. I can switch barrels with a torque wrench. In the field if need be. I do switch when im range shooting. You should watch the 2 videos at WTO on the link that I posted.