Swarovski NL Pure 10X vs 12X

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This site has ended up costing me a bunch of money, I have an old pair of 10x42’s SLC (DA 85…)
Is there going to be a noticeable improvement to upgrade to NL’s?
 
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Interesting. I noticed the mini blackouts as well but with eyecup adjustment they are basically gone. I went back and looked through my 10x and I get them as well but I never really noticed TBO until I looked for them. I keep thinking of running a NLP 8x42 and NLP 12x42 combo. Right now I have the NLP 12x and SLC 10x. I love the 10x SLC and will probably never part with them. Do you miss running 8x?

I can't tell a huge difference handholding 10x or 12x. Alternating back-n-forth between the two it is there just not significant IMO. In my backyard I can glass 500 yards. If there were a deer I wouldn't be able to pick out detail with either unless I put them on a tripod.

When hunting I use my tripod as a trekking pole. Makes it very quick to put my nocs on the tripod with the the Outdoorsman stud/adapter.
I still own my 8x32 EL and take them occasionally depending on where we're hunting. In really close quarters I prefer the 8x but it's rare that I am hunting tight timber like that. Even in the tight timber, the 12x aren't unmanageable but I prefer the smaller form factor of my smaller 8x.
 
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dwhicker

dwhicker

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I still own my 8x32 EL and take them occasionally depending on where we're hunting. In really close quarters I prefer the 8x but it's rare that I am hunting tight timber like that. Even in the tight timber, the 12x aren't unmanageable but I prefer the smaller form factor of my smaller 8x.

I have been wondering this myself. I hunt a lot of thick timber and burn areas and I worried that the 12’s would be too much magnification. I do also hunt a lot of high country with a lot of ground to be glassed so that’s where the appeal of the 12’s come in. Ultimately the 12 NL pure’s have a wider FOV then the Vortex 10’s that I have been using so knowing that I wonder if the 12’s would be fine even in thicker trees and woods. Such a hard debate especially with how much of an investment it is.


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This site has ended up costing me a bunch of money, I have an old pair of 10x42’s SLC (DA 85…)
Is there going to be a noticeable improvement to upgrade to NL’s?
I have SLC 10x from ~ 2016. I have NLP 12x.

To answer your question no. Running them side-by-side it makes me realize how good the SLC glass is. Edge clarity definitely goes to NLP.

Not an apples to apples comparison being SLC is 10x and NLP is 12x:

I feel the SLC, during the day, is a little brighter but expected being 10x.

SLC might be a touch easier on the eyes meaning keeping pupil within the exit pupil. SLC 10x ep 4.2 NLP 12x ep 3.5. BUT once the eyecups on the 12x were properly adjusted for my eyes > it's sooo close.

I feel the NLP is a touch darker/more contrast but I'm also looking through a 12x.

Obviously, it would be better to do a 10x vs 10x.
 
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dwhicker

dwhicker

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I have SLC 10x from ~ 2016. I have NLP 12x.

To answer your question no. Running them side-by-side it makes me realize how good the SLC glass is. Edge clarity definitely goes to NLP.

Not an apples to apples comparison being SLC is 10x and NLP is 12x:

I feel the SLC, during the day, is a little brighter but expected being 10x.

SLC might be a touch easier on the eyes meaning keeping pupil within the exit pupil. SLC 10x ep 4.2 NLP 12x ep 3.5. BUT once the eyecups on the 12x were properly adjusted for my eyes > it's sooo close.

I feel the NLP is a touch darker/more contrast but I'm also looking through a 12x.

Obviously, it would be better to do a 10x vs 10x.

Do you notice more of the shakiness like others have talked about with the 12’s especially while handholding them?


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I would really like to run 8x42 NLP for glassing. FOV is insane, exit pupil, brightness, easy on the eyes. My goal glassing is to simply to spot game and the 8x would be better for my purpose. Then use my 12x or spotter for detailed work or if I want to take a closer look.
 
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Do you notice more of the shakiness like others have talked about with the 12’s especially while handholding them?


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LOL. I just went outside and put both on a tripod so I could give real time observations.

Handholding: up close 25 yards and long distance 8-10 miles. There is a slight difference yes. Significant no. I think it's linear. If you hold 10x really steady you will be fine with 12x. If you don't with 10x you know the answer on the 12x.

But honesty how much detail does one see when handholding while glassing out west? You're hiking up/down, adrenaline, elevated heart rate, none of which is ideal for steady glassing. Even if I have 8x I will put my nocs on a tripod as much as possible. Bottom line you will see so much more.

My ideal setup would be 8x in my harness and 12x or spotter in the pack.
 
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dwhicker

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LOL. I just went outside and put both on a tripod so I could give real time observations.

Handholding: up close 25 yards and long distance 8-10 miles. There is a slight difference yes. Significant no. I think it's linear. If you hold 10x really steady you will be fine with 12x. If you don't with 10x you know the answer on the 12x.

But honesty how much detail does one see when handholding while glassing out west? You're hiking up/down, adrenaline, elevated heart rate, none of which is ideal for steady glassing. Even if I have 8x I will put my nocs on a tripod as much as possible. Bottom line you will see so much more.

My ideal setup would be 8x in my harness and 12x or spotter in the pack.

That is some great insight, thank you. I don’t glass of of a tripod nearly as much as I need to. I just need to get into the habit of doing so. If I could learn to do that more I think the 12’s would be ideal. I have never been a fan of 8’s.


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Jlt1313

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I originally bought both because I had a hard time deciding which would serve my needs best. I field use both as well and ended up settling with the 10’s. After looking through both constant it feels like the 10’s are 11’s if that makes sense. Also when I was out hiking I notice I had more control over the 10x at what I was glassing. The 12 I felt as if I can see my shake and that’s including with the forehead rest. I prefer more of the field of view. I run my 10’s with the STC.
 

jzeblaz

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I'm not sure I can add much to the discussion, but I got 12s this spring. I've had them out a few times in the field hunting, but it was a huge upgrade for me. Brightness, something I was concerned about due to the exit pupil being smaller in 12x42 was a non-issue. Handholding wasn't really an issue until I was cresting ridges in NZ and it was hard to steady them standing. Seated it was fine, but I may have had problems stabilizing 10s in the same conditions. I love the 12s and only once was little more magnified than I wanted when I was in some timber. I hunt mostly in CA open country and looking forward to the 12s on a tripod this summer for archery blacktail.
 
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I've had my 12's for over 6 months now and the only time I've wanted a different bino is just something smaller and lighter to carry on occasion. The NL 12's are pretty small for what they are (my girlfriend calls them the small ones compared to the EL 8.5x42) but sometimes I also want a pocket bino. I still have a pair of 8x42 BX4's which are a little lighter but not too much smaller but naturally they get neglected for the alpha glass.

If I could only have one pair it would be the NL 12's, but I have been shopping for some nice 8x32's to have something smaller on occasions and because the lady prefers a lower mag binocular and doesn't like the thickness of the EL barrels. If it weren't for needing two pair of binos so we can each view then I wouldn't own anything but the NL 12's. They cover all my needs from close to far viewing, offhand or tripod mounted.
 

Jlt1313

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I'm not sure I can add much to the discussion, but I got 12s this spring. I've had them out a few times in the field hunting, but it was a huge upgrade for me. Brightness, something I was concerned about due to the exit pupil being smaller in 12x42 was a non-issue. Handholding wasn't really an issue until I was cresting ridges in NZ and it was hard to steady them standing. Seated it was fine, but I may have had problems stabilizing 10s in the same conditions. I love the 12s and only once was little more magnified than I wanted when I was in some timber. I hunt mostly in CA open country and looking forward to the 12s on a tripod this summer for archery blacktail.
When you ran the 12’s field hunting did you control them pretty easily? I felt like i couldn’t control them when I out stalking big game but then again I’m always on the move on my hunts.
 
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How are you holding the barrels, and are you bracing your arms against your body?

Something to think about too, the image shake is still there the same amount with a lower mag binocular, you just aren't noticing it. So technically the higher mag binoculars don't make you see anything worse with shake more noticeable and theoretically you may still see better overall because of the higher magnification even with distortion from shake increased.
 
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How are you holding the barrels, and are you bracing your arms against your body?

Something to think about too, the image shake is still there the same amount with a lower mag binocular, you just aren't noticing it. So technically the higher mag binoculars don't make you see anything worse with shake more noticeable and theoretically you may still see better overall because of the higher magnification even with distortion from shake increased.
An interesting point. I do well with the 12s.

I hold with my hands right at the edge of the body/near the objective edge (if that makes sense) and my thumbs are on the underside of the body. Not by intention, but this does keep my elbow pointing at the ground and my triceps are resting against my bino harness. 3 solid points of contact. Maybe that's why I can hold them fairly well.
 

JakeSCH

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I use to always struggle hand holding binos (even 8x)...this podcast changed the game for me. Now I have no issues holding my 12x.

Hands on top, thumbs on side, adds quite a bit of stability.

 

Jlt1313

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How are you holding the barrels, and are you bracing your arms against your body?

Something to think about too, the image shake is still there the same amount with a lower mag binocular, you just aren't noticing it. So technically the higher mag binoculars don't make you see anything worse with shake more noticeable and theoretically you may still see better overall because of the higher magnification even with distortion from shake increased.
When I run the 10’s I use them with the forehead rest and they’re good to go. I think if you run the 10’s & 12’s at rest they’re both good but when I notice the differences is when I’m out hunting on the trails were my heart rate is higher than normal so that itself gives me the shakes/tremor when glassing and it’s more noticeable on the 12’s than the 10’s.
 

Loper

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I have used and owned 12s in the past. I own 10x el's and my dad has the 12x el's..... I pack my spotter pretty much everywhere so I dont feel like I am missing out on much not using the 12s anymore...... I used 12s freehand and on a tripod. Even with 10s I put them on a tripod if I am glassing for more than a min or two.

Did you go from NL 12s to EL 10s? If so why? Curious more so on why you went from NLs to ELs.
 

Crusader

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I use to always struggle hand holding binos (even 8x)...this podcast changed the game for me. Now I have no issues holding my 12x.

Hands on top, thumbs on side, adds quite a bit of stability.

Man, I must be a little slow on the uptake here but I can't visualize how you can hold binoculars without any support (thumbs?) on the underside.....where on top do your hands go and the thumbs are just on the sides of the barrels? A picture here would really be helpful!
 

BBob

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Man, I must be a little slow on the uptake here but I can't visualize how you can hold binoculars without any support (thumbs?) on the underside.....where on top do your hands go and the thumbs are just on the sides of the barrels? A picture here would really be helpful!
Thumbs are under pointing back at your face with pads touching providing support, not curled under and around the barrels pointing at each other. It's a bit more more like cupping each side rather than like grabbing something. Your wrists lock a bit more and you get the heel of your hand more engaged to the binocular. Your elbows get pulled in rather than flailing out like a chicken. As your elbows come in it pulls and locks your shoulders tighter. Another tip is to push the eye cups firmly back and upwards on the underside of the top of your eye socket. I prefer eye cups all the way in.

On NL's and late EL's my thumbs touch, grip and wrap around the bottom and back of the swivel bumps.

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