Supressor direct thread vs muzzle brake mount?

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I went with a the dead air xeno set up for my primal. My rifles are all thread differently, so the Xeno system will let me keep the suppressor the same all the time and not have to constantly be switching direct thread adapters.
 
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I'm going with the cb brake for my TBAC ultra 7 when it comes. I would never use it as just a brake. I like that the threads bottom out on the end of the muzzle instead of just the small shoulder, unless you have a large diameter barrel which would be too heavy on my hunting rifle. If I had a heavier barrel then it would just be direct thread.
 
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A better question might be: "Is there any good reason not to go for a threaded barrel over clamp-on mounting?" :unsure:
 
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I had a baffle strike once.....barrel was 1/2-28 and suppressor was 5/8-24, and also had a QD mount. So that is 3 connection points:

1. Can to QD mount
2. QD mount to (1/2-28 to 5/8-24) adapter
3. Adapter to rifle

Im certain the baffle strike was due to one or multiple of those coming loose.

The safest thing IMO is a direct thread can straight to the barrel. 1 connection point

Yep tolerance stacking can cause exactly this and another reason to choose DT over mount style.


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jah4c1

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Does a suppressor over the brake reduce recoil more than just a direct thread suppressor? I will never use the brake without the suppressor. I could not decipher that info from the comments.
 
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I can't feel any difference with an ultra 7, so I went direct thread on everything else to keep from having to buy CB brakes for everything. They put in a direct thread bottom for me.....
 

Jimss

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I just bought a 300 win mag and put a 419 sidewinder brake on it. It kicks less than a 6.5 creedmore. I just wear ear protection so don't need a suppressor. The suppressors I've seen are super long and would be a drag hunting in thick brush or in moist areas/snow. If it were me I would just forget about a suppressor! The 419 is super easy and simple to install.
 

CoWapiti

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My 30 cal can isn't new, fancy, and lightweight but it works exceptionally well and is absurdly quiet on my 300WM and everything else. It's a DT, reflex style and I love it. I'm never in a hurry when threading my can on, so I've never worried or really thought about cross threading. After my experiences with this one, I'd only be looking at DT cans.
 

jah4c1

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My 30 cal can isn't new, fancy, and lightweight but it works exceptionally well and is absurdly quiet on my 300WM and everything else. It's a DT, reflex style and I love it. I'm never in a hurry when threading my can on, so I've never worried or really thought about cross threading. After my experiences with this one, I'd only be looking at DT cans.
Have you ever tried it over a muzzle brake to see if there is less recoil? My dead air nomad is direct thread. I just ordered a new one and was trying to decide whether to go direct thread on this also, or if a brake/can combo would be lower recoil for 7prc. Hunting, no doubt direct thread, this will be competition shooting, so I need as little recoil as possible for tracing shots. I know a can often reduces accuracy, changes back pressure/velocities, etc. Just curious if a brake/suppressor has less recoil than direct thread can.
 

CoWapiti

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Have you ever tried it over a muzzle brake to see if there is less recoil? My dead air nomad is direct thread. I just ordered a new one and was trying to decide whether to go direct thread on this also, or if a brake/can combo would be lower recoil for 7prc. Hunting, no doubt direct thread, this will be competition shooting, so I need as little recoil as possible for tracing shots. I know a can often reduces accuracy, changes back pressure/velocities, etc. Just curious if a brake/suppressor has less recoil than direct thread can.
No sir, it's not capable of being used with a brake due to the design. It requires a special taper to be machined into the barrel on a bolt gun (or uses a collar on M4/SPR barrels). It's definitely old school but a tried and true system. The recoil is very minimal with it on my 300WM, but it's also a heavy rifle.
 

Shortschaf

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Have you ever tried it over a muzzle brake to see if there is less recoil? My dead air nomad is direct thread. I just ordered a new one and was trying to decide whether to go direct thread on this also, or if a brake/can combo would be lower recoil for 7prc. Hunting, no doubt direct thread, this will be competition shooting, so I need as little recoil as possible for tracing shots. I know a can often reduces accuracy, changes back pressure/velocities, etc. Just curious if a brake/suppressor has less recoil than direct thread can.
brake attached cans feel the same as DT cans.

The forces that brakes utilize to redirect recoil are recaptured by the can around them, completely negating its affects.
 

jbwright

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My 30 cal can isn't new, fancy, and lightweight but it works exceptionally well and is absurdly quiet on my 300WM and everything else. It's a DT, reflex style and I love it. I'm never in a hurry when threading my can on, so I've never worried or really thought about cross threading. After my experiences with this one, I'd only be looking at DT cans.
If you had to guesstimate how much the can reduces recoil on your 300WM, what would you say? And to be clear, you’re direct threading the can onto your barrel w/no device? Asking because I’m building a 300wsm and trying to figure out the best route in attaching a can…DT vs brake/device + Can
 

Unckebob

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Shorter and lighter. I have both, for a hutning can I'd probably go direct thread. Most of my ARs and similar wear a muzzle brake or more accurately a flashhider mount.

My rifles are set up the same way. All the bolt action rifles are direct thread and all my AR's have Keymo brakes or flash hiders.

One disadvantage of the QD adapters I have seen - they would look ridiculous on an elegant bolt action rifle.

I have used the Area 419 system on one rifle in the past and it works well. I just don't want to spend the money for an adapter for each can.
 

Unckebob

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Have you ever tried it over a muzzle brake to see if there is less recoil? My dead air nomad is direct thread. I just ordered a new one and was trying to decide whether to go direct thread on this also, or if a brake/can combo would be lower recoil for 7prc. Hunting, no doubt direct thread, this will be competition shooting, so I need as little recoil as possible for tracing shots. I know a can often reduces accuracy, changes back pressure/velocities, etc. Just curious if a brake/suppressor has less recoil than direct thread can.

I have a Nomad and have tried it with the Keymo system and with a direct thread mount.
1) The original plan was to use it on all platforms; however, I quickly discovered that the QD setup had the tolerance issues discussed above.
As a result, I never mounted the Keymo system on my bolt action rifles. I now use a Sandman for my AR's and the Nomad and a Evo II on my bolt action rifles.

2) I use the Nomad on everything up to 280AI. Without the can, the 280AI is stout. With the can, I could shoot it all day without complaint.
 

jbwright

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I have not tested it myself but I haven't seen a claim or anyone say that using a can over a brake is additive.
Thanks for this. I've been combing through the thread trying to figure this out for awhile. Still researching though...
 

Shortschaf

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This is simply not true

Edit to add: maybe they are talking about muzzle brakes added ON to the end of a suppressor. Those do add recoil reduction to a suppressor. But to my knowledge they still do not compete with well designed, straight muzzle brake

I do not believe them if they are claiming a muzzle brake MOUNTED suppressor will have less recoil than an identical, direct thread suppressor
 
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