Suppressors - first round impact shift

[hibernation]

I know this is an older thread but I am having this problem with a Nomad TI XC that i just bought. Rifle is a 25PRC (6.5PRC Parent Case) Tikka Action/Bartlien 24" Carbon Barrel. Zero'd the rifle with the can on. First 3 shots always seem to hit high before it settles back at the original zero. Attached pictures show my first 4 shots out of the rifle/followed by three on an adjecent target. I emailed Dead Air and this is what the told me.

Dead Air <[email protected]>
1:32 PM (9 minutes ago)
to me

One thing with a lighter carbon barrel that I have noticed is that once it warms after a couple shots it can start walking a bit. With a light carbon barrel, it can be a pain to sight in as you want to zero it dead center within the first say 3 shots. So, it can take several times going out to the range with a cold barrel to get that done. I also work at a range once a month and I see and hear this with many shooters. After several shots on their carbon barrels, it will start to either walk, drop or even rise just depending on the barrel. Being a hunting barrel, they are meant for those three shots and not more before letting it cool.

I hope this helps. Try getting it dead on first say shot and you should be good to go

Ryan

Have you shot it without the can, does it show the same POI shift?

 

[jblanchrd]

I've shot it with and without the can...only time it does it is with the can on. I've shot numerous 5 shot grps with it but no strings of 10. Couple Pics with a brake on.

 

[JohnJohnson]

Been shooting more often lately and haven't noticed any first round shifts with the TBAC cans I've been using.

 

[hibernation]

I've shot it with and without the can...only time it does it is with the can on. I've shot numerous 5 shot grps with it but no strings of 10. Couple Pics with a brake on.

Frustrating for sure. If you're going to shoot any more trials with it, you might try what I did and shoot 3 to 5 round strings from fully cold, but keep marking the shot order. Or shoot them onto separate targets. Get a solid group of just the cold-bore shots, then you can compare it to a separate group of just the 3rd, 4th, or 5th shots once it's heated up.

Probably goes without saying, but check that it's on snug once it warms up too.

 

[hibernation]

Been shooting more often lately and haven't noticed any first round shifts with the TBAC cans I've been using.

Yeah seems like they're close to the gold standard for reliability and accuracy.

 

[eli425]

Since my last post here, I've spoke to DD and they said that its highly unusual. Essentially said clean it, make sure everything is tight, and keep shooting.

After cleaning it and getting all that loose carbon out I would still have very minor poi shift on the cold bore. And I say POI shift, as its outside my cone of fire for my 30 round group. About 1.5" at 100yards.

I decided to try something different. Instead of direct thread, I installed a muzzle brake and hub mount.
Tested it cold bore with the brake. Tested it cold bore with the can. Both within cone of fire.

Today, I took it out to 300yards for a cold bore shot with the can. Followed up with 4 more shots after and they all grouped together nicely. Did something similar at 500yards with a 'semi' cold bore (like an hour of cool time in 70degree weather) and it all grouped fantastic.

I'm not saying the brake/hub fixed the issue, but thats what is working for me now. I think it was just more cleaning to make sure all the loose carbon comes out. And maybe while swapping out to the hub helped me get it cleaned out even more.

So I think going forward, I'll just make sure to clean the can every 300 or so rounds in the sonic cleaner.

 

[Formidilosus]

Since my last post here, I've spoke to DD and they said that its highly unusual. Essentially said clean it, make sure everything is tight, and keep shooting.

After cleaning it and getting all that loose carbon out I would still have very minor poi shift on the cold bore. And I say POI shift, as its outside my cone of fire for my 30 round group. About 1.5" at 100yards.

I decided to try something different. Instead of direct thread, I installed a muzzle brake and hub mount.
Tested it cold bore with the brake. Tested it cold bore with the can. Both within cone of fire.

Today, I took it out to 300yards for a cold bore shot with the can. Followed up with 4 more shots after and they all grouped together nicely. Did something similar at 500yards with a 'semi' cold bore (like an hour of cool time in 70degree weather) and it all grouped fantastic.

I'm not saying the brake/hub fixed the issue, but thats what is working for me now. I think it was just more cleaning to make sure all the loose carbon comes out. And maybe while swapping out to the hub helped me get it cleaned out even more.

So I think going forward, I'll just make sure to clean the can every 300 or so rounds in the sonic cleaner.

It has nothing to do with a fouled can. It definitely can be a jacked up hub mount.

 

[eli425]

Ha youre probably right!
I guess I'll just keep shooting and see if it the issue comes back then.