Suppressing a pencil barrel...

[Tahoe1305]

Does the suppressor loosen frequently after hand tightening or does it stay put.

That’s a good question. I don’t shoot either of the pencil models a ton. Just to practice for hunting and to hunt. I have gotten in the habit before I sit to shoot of always hand tightening and then checking every few rounds on all my guns with DT.

I don’t think they back off any more than thicker barrel setups. But they all back off a bit if you don’t pay attention. Just my experience with DT.

 

[ACHILLES]

Does the suppressor loosen frequently after hand tightening or does it stay put.

Hand tight they do come loose easier than on a larger contour barrel with more mating surface. My direct thread can has wrench flats at both ends so I would just torque it slightly with a wrench and it would never come loose. Now days on my thunder beast cans I run the area419 sidewinder and hellfire adapter system on smaller barrels. The adapter has wrench flats so you can torque it down then the outer threads that go into the can are large with a lot of surface area so hand tightening actually holds it place securely but it’s still easy to break loose. And the outer threads are left handed so as your breaking the can loose it’s your spinning to the right so your adapter will never come loose.
But with a direct thread and no wrench flats I would constantly check or just have a smith make you a threaded collar like someone else mentioned. That being said I’ve run probably 600+ rds on my sporter bbl 30-06 with 1/2x28 threads with a direct thread can and no collar without issue.

Hellfire adapter for tbac

 

[General RE LEE]

Hand tight they do come loose easier than on a larger contour barrel with more mating surface. My direct thread can has wrench flats at both ends so I would just torque it slightly with a wrench and it would never come loose. Now days on my thunder beast cans I run the area419 sidewinder and hellfire adapter system on smaller barrels. The adapter has wrench flats so you can torque it down then the outer threads that go into the can are large with a lot of surface area so hand tightening actually holds it place securely but it’s still easy to break loose. And the outer threads are left handed so as your breaking the can loose it’s your spinning to the right so your adapter will never come loose.
But with a direct thread and no wrench flats I would constantly check or just have a smith make you a threaded collar like someone else mentioned. That being said I’ve run probably 600+ rds on my sporter bbl 30-06 with 1/2x28 threads with a direct thread can and no collar without issue.

Hellfire adapter for tbac
View attachment 843821

Thank you. The HUB direct thread adapters for the Banish have wrench flats. I can tighten them lightly with a wrench like you said.

 

[ACHILLES]

Nice, your good to go then.

 

[The Harbor Master]

I've had it recommended to me to use an O-ring behind a thread protector on a threaded glock barrel to keep it from loosening. Is that not a thing on a suppressor? My non-expert thinking is that the more flush you can get the can onto a shoulder or a taper, the better the performance. So an o-ring wouldn't be the best idea. But I wonder if it would make a difference as far as keeping it from loosening.

 

[Tahoe1305]

I've had it recommended to me to use an O-ring behind a thread protector on a threaded glock barrel to keep it from loosening. Is that not a thing on a suppressor? My non-expert thinking is that the more flush you can get the can onto a shoulder or a taper, the better the performance. But I wonder if an O-ring would make a difference.

Most folks are pretty sensitive to suppressor alignment. I’ve never tried your idea, but also would be concerned without it completely crushed up against the shoulder of it would be squarely threaded. Ain’t no one want baffle strikes!

 

[112Savage]

I have a tikka T3x lite 300WSM threaded 1/2x28 with a cheap 5/8x24 adapter rocksett onto the end. It may be my most consistent rifle. 200gr ELDX’s are amazing
Silencer Central threaded my Blaser standard profile barrel 30-06 1/2x28
Both of these rifles I use DT suppressors. I have less problems out of these two than I do my carbon 6ix sendero profile barrel 5/8x24. It always backs off no matter how tight I torque it. I have resorted to a cherry bomb type taper mount to keep the can from moving on it.

In other words. Do a false shoulder or 1/2x28 but the threads being cut well is the bigger determinant of success

 

[Kaleb]

Almost all of my barrels are 1/2” threads. I do swap out the hub plate for 1/2”. I’ve had no problems at all. Mini sporter contour Kimber Montanas tikka sporters and the like are all 1/2” and one 300win. If it’s a problem I haven’t found it yet.

If it wasn’t clear I direct thread all mine suppressor to barrel. Until something changes my mind I’m not interested in spending extra for a lighter titanium suppressor and then spending more money for a brake to make it heavier and depending on make also slightly longer.