Stuck CB in suppressor and unscrewed my whole barrel. I didn’t know I was so strong

[HandgunHTR]

Basic care of a suppressor avoids all of your problems.
But, hey. If it's easier and simpler for you to do DT, then do it. DT walks off easier than CB brakes, so I have no interest. Loctiting a brake is a much easier solution for me.


DT cans walk off easier/more often than their CB brake-mounted counterparts

Basic care of the suppressor doesn't solve the thing welding onto the brake/ASR mount/QD device after 15-50 rounds. It is a function of how they need to be designed for alignment using minimal threads that contributes to this.

I have seen more QD cans launched / baffle striked than I have DT cans. If you mount your DT cans correctly, they will not loosen during use and they won't get carbon locked at all.

 

[Shortschaf]

Basic care of the suppressor doesn't solve the thing welding onto the brake/ASR mount/QD device after 15-50 rounds. It is a function of how they need to be designed for alignment using minimal threads that contributes to this.

It's not "welded". But sure, it's tight. Give me any suppressor setup and I can get it to be so stuck in 50 rounds that you need heat or tools to remove it. QD or DT, doesnt matter. Theres a hundred threads out there of DT cans getting stuck to muzzles

I have seen more QD cans launched / baffle striked than I have DT cans. If you mount your DT cans correctly, they will not loosen during use and they won't get carbon locked at all.

This is precisely why the CB mount is great.
It's tight. It doesn't walk off. Other QD systems can and do.

buyers have a choice, get a looser system more prone to bafflestrikes or a tighter system that is harder to get off

But incorrectly using a product and then having that product fail is not justification to speak against it

 

[Duh]

It's not "welded". But sure, it's tight. Give me any suppressor setup and I can get it to be so stuck in 50 rounds that you need heat or tools to remove it. QD or DT, doesnt matter. Theres a hundred threads out there of DT cans getting stuck to muzzles


This is precisely why the CB mount is great.
It's tight. It doesn't walk off. Other QD systems can and do.

buyers have a choice, get a looser system more prone to bafflestrikes or a tighter system that is harder to get off

But incorrectly using a product and then having that product fail is not justification to speak against it

I’ve got a bit over 1500 rounds on a banish 30 DT can that I haven’t bothered cleaning for about 1200 ish of those rounds. Have had a plenty dirty thread on the barrels and never had the DT get stuck on the threads of any rifle. Never had it walk off either. I’ve shot the hell out of it on this same Seekins and left the can sitting on the gun for months and it’s always spun off fine so I’ve had a positive experience with DT thus far.

Definitely not trashing the CB mounts but after this experience, it’s not my cup of tea.

Tbac can beats the hell out of the banish 30 though haha.

 

[Lawnboi]

I doubt you have a problem with the cb once you install it as directed. I’m barrels into cb mounted suppressors. Including some PRs style shooting where the can basically stays hot and gets 100 plus rounds without removal. I have yet to have any issues, but then again I remove my suppressors when I’m storing my guns.

Usually when it’s time to pull off a CB mount, off the barrel, it’s a torch, cheater bar and barrel vise project.


The only other downside of leaving it in is when you want to clean it you have a steel insert to deal with.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I think a DT could just carbon weld onto a barrel too. The CB mount allows me to have cb mounts on different guns and move the can around to them. If it’s direct thread I can only thread onto a certain threaded rifle.

Are you talking the timed CB mount flat portion? Thats for if you ever shot without the can. The gas would go to the sides and not into the dirt.

You could get other rifles threaded for your silencer.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I’ve got a bit over 1500 rounds on a banish 30 DT can that I haven’t bothered cleaning for about 1200 ish of those rounds. Have had a plenty dirty thread on the barrels and never had the DT get stuck on the threads of any rifle. Never had it walk off either. I’ve shot the hell out of it on this same Seekins and left the can sitting on the gun for months and it’s always spun off fine so I’ve had a positive experience with DT thus far.

Definitely not trashing the CB mounts but after this experience, it’s not my cup of tea.

Tbac can beats the hell out of the banish 30 though haha.

Can you get the end cap off your banish 30 after all those rounds and not cleaning? Mine is basically fused together. Silencer central even told me that they might damage it trying to get it apart so I should just shoot it like it is. lol.

 

[Duh]

Can you get the end cap off your banish 30 after all those rounds and not cleaning? Mine is basically fused together. Silencer central even told me that they might damage it trying to get it apart so I should just shoot it like it is. lol.

Hell no lol. That end cap carbon welded shortly into my ownership of it. I tried to follow their recommendations of cleaning every 75 rounds and that didn’t work. That’s about the point I decided cleaning wasn’t for me. I’ll pour CLR inside of it someday (maybe).

 

[justin davis]

You could get other rifles threaded for your silencer.

Yea true. In my Situation however I have bigger rifles that are 5/8x24 And then smaller like ARs are 1/2x28. Cant have them all be the same thread.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Yea true. In my Situation however I have bigger rifles that are 5/8x24 And then smaller like ARs are 1/2x28. Cant have them all be the same thread.

You can get a very simple adapter that goes 1/2x28 to your rifle and 5/8x24 to the silencer for 20-30 bucks.

Very easy issue to work around without spending g a thousand dollars on hideous muzzle devices.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Hell no lol. That end cap carbon welded shortly into my ownership of it. I tried to follow their recommendations of cleaning every 75 rounds and that didn’t work. That’s about the point I decided cleaning wasn’t for me. I’ll pour CLR inside of it someday (maybe).

I was thinking of pouring in some clr and seeing what comes out. I have pieces of scale rattling around inside of the can.

 

[Sled]

Yeah I’m headed to get some softer clamps. I still can’t believe the barrel spun off so easily.

Well it wasn't a factory Tikka barrel, that's for sure.

I use a nickel base antiseize on my threads to keep them free. I torque by hand when hot and let it cool. Haven't had one stuck or loose this way.

 

[Duh]

Got the barrel torqued back on and just got back from shooting it. The gun still shoots just as good as it did prior to the barrel spinning off. However, it sped up about 45fps for an average of 3,020 fps with no pressure signs. Shooting a 212 eldx with 77grains of h1000, so I’m pretty happy with that velocity.

The group on the lower left was before I made a slight adjustment. I’m going to give it one click up and one click to the left and call it good. That 15 rounds of fairly rapid shooting.

Oh, and the CB is still stuck in the suppressors. I’ve decided I’m leaving it and going to keep shooting it that way.

 

[Dbow1]

• Redloctite it on. Let cure 24 hours
• Freezer until its cold
• Heat gun/blowtorch on the SUPPRESSOR ONLY. Apply heat in front of the brake area. Dont heat it so much that you heat the brake and melt the red loctite (250°F)

Itll come off

Curious if you have used this method on a carbon fiber barrel. I wonder if the heat will damage the carbon fiber?

 

[Shortschaf]

Curious if you have used this method on a carbon fiber barrel. I wonder if the heat will damage the carbon fiber?

I have not but I would not hesitate to follow the instructions I laid out. Keep open flame on suppressor. Don't get it hot enough to melt red loctite and resin should be fine. Be conservative

Do NOT put open flame on the carbon fiber portion of barrel. The resin will burn eventually. I don't know what temperature, but they obviously see very high temps during shooting.

 

[Dbow1]

I have not but I would not hesitate to follow the instructions I laid out. Keep open flame on suppressor. Don't get it hot enough to melt red loctite and resin should be fine. Be conservative

Do NOT put open flame on the carbon fiber portion of barrel. The resin will burn eventually. I don't know what temperature, but they obviously see very high temps during shooting.

That’s a great point. I’ve tried to research the resin melting temp but haven’t had any luck.