Stove wood prep time and amount

[erocs_88]

I couldn't really find anything about this searching the forums. I'm considering getting my first hot tent a seek outside Cimarron with large stove or something similar. I'm wondering how long it takes you to prep wood and how much you burn through each day. I realize this will vary but would like to hear your experience.

This has been one of my big hold ups from getting one. I like to be mobile so prepping wood every night doesn't sound fun. At the same time I know once I get one I won't be able to go back.

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[*zap*]

1-2 hrs each night and 1 hr in the am burn time = 30-45 minutes prep. Silky saw, ratchet hand pruners and something to baton with.

 

[Vrybusy]

What Zap said. Also, depending on the country you're setting up in, you might not have to saw/cut much. The nice thing about these stoves I found is that wood that is often overlooked because it's smaller, actually works very well for the Ti stoves. Good luck!

 

[*zap*]

A fan works wonders plus you can make a baffle for the stove out of a piece of titanium pipe.

 

[cornfedkiller]

Also, depending on the country you're setting up in, you might not have to saw/cut much.

2nd this.

Used the wood stove last year in eastern montana, and we were set up by a couple creek bottoms with some old dead cottonwood branches, and we had as much wood as we could carry in about 5 mins.

 

[erocs_88]

View attachment 486966

A fan works wonders plus you can make a baffle for the stove out of a piece of titanium pipe.

View attachment 486967

Thanks Zap, that fan is a hot tip! You might have to explain a little more how you make the baffle. Your talking about a baffle that goes in the stove body not just the damper at the bottom of the chimney right?

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[*zap*]

Baffle made of titanium pipe goes under the top piece of the stove. Concave down, bends at each side to slip over the side piece's, two holes for the legs to slip thru and covers everything but a 2" gap opposite the pipe opening. SO makes one for their largest stove.....the flames cannot just shoot up thru the pipe..

 

[cnelk]

Last fall in Alaska the Kifaru stove did great. Found out that it works best with 1 1/2”-2” wood. Last a couple hours

 

[cornfedkiller]

Baffle made of titanium pipe goes under the top piece of the stove. Concave down, bends at each side to slip over the side piece's, two holes for the legs to slip thru and covers everything but a 2" gap opposite the pipe opening. SO makes one for their largest stove.....the flames cannot just shoot up thru the pipe..

I watched a YouTube video where a guy did that.. is it possible to do something like that with the u-turn stoves?

 

[*zap*]

Yes. Put the piece 9f titanium on top, trace an outline 1.5" outside the u turn piece. Cut it there and then you need to make some v shaped cuts to the line so you can bend the edge down. Allow for the concave down.

 

[rayporter]

you can stomp finger sized pieces and pieces up to maybe and inch and a quarter to length in very few minutes - just use a rock or the base of a tree.

you will learn to plan the morning fire. if i dont build a fire at night i will stock the stove with kindling and a fire starter like esbit the night before so all i need to do is light it.

 

[dutch_henry]

My time varies. It really helps when you can factor wood availability into your campsite pic, vs scouting forever once you're set up.

You'll end up developing a system that works for you. I've always liked the versatility of a silky saw and an axe sized so you can either swing it or baton with it. @Zap I like the fan idea. Might have to try that. 100% with you on baffles.

 

[cornfedkiller]

Yes. Put the piece 9f titanium on top, trace an outline 1.5" outside the u turn piece. Cut it there and then you need to make some v shaped cuts to the line so you can bend the edge down. Allow for the concave down.

I’m not completely understanding.. the v-shaped cuts along the curved part I assume? Not necessary on the sides? And then that piece rides in the pouch with my other flat pieces (rather than rolled up with my side wall and chimney)?

Why does it have to have a concave down? What happens if it’s flat?

And then do I run my top piece “backward”.. with the chimney up front?

And where does a guy get 9f titanium?

 

[*zap*]

It needs to be concave down to allow room for air flow. You can have the pipe in front or rear. Not sure where you can get short section of pipe. I got mine from so but they do not sell it that way anymore.

it is piece of titanium not 9f titanium.

 

[Sawtoothsteve]

Baffle made of titanium pipe goes under the top piece of the stove. Concave down, bends at each side to slip over the side piece's, two holes for the legs to slip thru and covers everything but a 2" gap opposite the pipe opening. SO makes one for their largest stove.....the flames cannot just shoot up thru the pipe..

Zap, how does the baffle affect boiling water or cooking on the stovetop? More specifically, does the surface top cool somewhat, slowing a water boil?

 

[*zap*]

I think it heats it more evenly since the heat runs under the whole top to get to the pipe rather than just go straight to the pipe. Should be fine for cooking, just slows the burn some and keeps heat from going straight out the pipe.

 

[erocs_88]

This baffle idea is gold and sounds like it would make a good how to thread all on its own. I love customizing my gear and making it work better for me.

Seems like a lot of stove makers recommend putting the pipe opening at the front of the stove and the baffle opening at the back. Have you played around with this Zap?

Seems like that might make it easier to make one for a U turn stove. You could just stop the baffle where the U curve starts and let the air in there to come back to the stove pipe.

Lite outdoors sells titanium by the foot.

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[cornfedkiller]

Seems like that might make it easier to make one for a U turn stove. You could just stop the baffle where the U curve starts and let the air in there to come back to the stove pipe.

I have thought about that as well.. Only downside is you have to have the corners cut out for the legs that are inside the stove, whereas if the baffle was toward the back, those legs are already outside the stove. But I still think it would be easier to run it up front and just have the corners nipped off.

 

[thedutchtouch]

I've been messing around with this baffle idea though I purchased a winner well folding stove so slightly different application. Using some small titanium bolts to "permanently" attach a baffle to the stove top was what I was thinking, rather than this secondary piece, but either could work well. For materials potentially just cutting 8 inches or so off the end of the stove pipe might get you a baffle without increasing the danger of spark burn holes too much, no?

 

[*zap*]

Seems like a lot of stove makers recommend putting the pipe opening at the front of the stove and the baffle opening at the back. Have you played around with this Zap?

I put the pipe either front or back depending on what is better for the shelter/setup.