Stocky’s Hunter VG Tikka stock

[cubdriver84d]

Finally got around to mounting my stock today. Everything fit great and dropped right in I couldn’t be happier with the fit. Unfortunately when torqued to 55 in/lbs my rear action screw pulled through the factory bottom metal. Is the mountain tactical the best replacement bottom metal? Should I try and find another factory and hope it doesn’t happen again? Anybody have any other solutions?

I have one factory bottom metal that seems to be doing fine at 60 and another that the front screw pulled through. Hence my wtb ad… Seems to be hit or miss.

 

[Mountainrancher]

Is there anywhere to buy a factory other than a wtb or eBay? The lumley is a hundred bucks and that’s the cheapest replacement I could find.

 

[cubdriver84d]

Is there anywhere to buy a factory other than a wtb or eBay? The lumley is a hundred bucks and that’s the cheapest replacement I could find.

Tikka T3 / T3X Trigger Guard -

Tikka T3x Trigger Guard. Tikka T3 / T3X Trigger Guard. Factory original Tikka parts that are made in Finland to the highest standards and specifications.

jaoutdoors.com

 

[atmat]

Is there anywhere to buy a factory other than a wtb or eBay? The lumley is a hundred bucks and that’s the cheapest replacement I could find.

The last WTB someone offered the guy one for free. I’d start there.

 

[amassi]

Is there anywhere to buy a factory other than a wtb or eBay? The lumley is a hundred bucks and that’s the cheapest replacement I could find.

If you get another factory if you have enough thread engagement you can always try a washer to resist pulling through. High desert makes a nice aluminum upgrade the Lumleys are hit and miss in terms of consistency. Some fit loosely, some snug, some would require stock or bottom metal alterations


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[amassi]

Tikka T3 / T3X Trigger Guard -

Tikka T3x Trigger Guard. Tikka T3 / T3X Trigger Guard. Factory original Tikka parts that are made in Finland to the highest standards and specifications.

jaoutdoors.com

Make sure it isn’t a knock off like some of the other products on that website


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[sndmn11]

Tactical Works has the Lumley and their free ship code is ROKFS

I put little washers under my factory plastic bottom.

 

[TxLite]

Make sure it isn’t a knock off like some of the other products on that website


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You’ve received knockoffs from JA? I’ve only ever had positive experiences with them

 

[NSI]

Tikka Bottom Plastic:
It seems that a fair percentage experience screws pulling through at torque values in excess of the factory 45 in-lbs.

The washer solution sacrifices thread engagement with unknown consequences.

My personal strategy is that if a Tikka is shooting well at 45 in-lbs I leave the factory bottom plastic alone. Most of them do.

If a gun wants more torque to shoot well, I swap to an aluminum bottom metal. Deforming the plastic isn't an aesthetic problem, it's a predictability problem. If both ends of a torqued system aren't relatively robust, the torque value becomes a poor indicator of durable tension. When I do switch from plastic (rare), I like the High Desert Linear and the Lumley Arctic for their extra index finger room. I am currently testing the Atlasworx AICS DBM and will report back when I have some more time on it.

-J

 

[sndmn11]

The washer solution sacrifices thread engagement with unknown consequences.

How so? The washers fit inside the void between the stock and the spring metal that's molded into the plastic. Not in-between the stock and the plastic.

 

[NSI]

How so? The washers fit inside the void between the stock and the spring metal that's molded into the plastic. Not in-between the stock and the plastic.

I was imagining washers at least partially external to the bottom plastic, large enough to spread the crush force across a greater surface area of bottom plastic. Sounds like you're getting good results with washes only slightly larger than screw hole size?

-J

 

[sndmn11]

I was imagining washers at least partially external to the bottom plastic, large enough to spread the crush force across a greater surface area of bottom plastic. Sounds like you're getting good results with washes only slightly larger than screw hole size?

-J

Yes, think like mini pillars under the metal part only of the bottom.

 

[sdupontjr]

I had a similar situation when I took my CTR out of the CTR stock and placed it in another stock. I ended up installing my own SS homemade pillars. But I entended the pillars out the bottom of the stock thus fitting inside the OEM Tikka bottom metal. Now the washer that is made into the bottom sits firmly on the pillar. All is well now. Could tighten to the moon with no issues, but i go to 50 in/lbs.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I had a similar situation when I took my CTR out of the CTR stock and placed it in another stock. I ended up installing my own SS homemade pillars. But I entended the pillars out the bottom of the stock thus fitting inside the OEM Tikka bottom metal. Now the washer that is made into the bottom sits firmly on the pillar. All is well now. Could tighten to the moon with no issues, but i go to 50 in/lbs.

that's exactly what i do on t3x lite stocks.

 

[4090Sharps]

VG stock for my Howa Mini arrived yesterday so I slapped some quick grip and paint on it last night. I'm looking forward to seeing and trying out the Rokslide Tikka stock!

Edit to add: I really like and prefer the slim recoil pad on these rifle.

 

[Brontosaurus]

So how did the forend debate end?

 

[XFrog]

Built for the missus. She wanted to cut weight off her deer rifle. I got the unpainted as it was the only one in stock at the time. Wife picked the colors and I painted it.

 

[XFrog]

FYI: 2K clear auto rattle cans comes in flat, semi, satin and gloss. Put 2 Coates over you stock and it keeps solvent and oil from screwing up the paint. Flat and semi have some texture to help grip.

 

[BroccoliRob]

FYI: 2K clear auto rattle cans comes in flat, semi, satin and gloss. Put 2 Coates over you stock and it keeps solvent and oil from screwing up the paint. Flat and semi have some texture to help grip.

This is what I use on all my stock paint jobs. Much harder and more durable than basic clear coats, and looks better too. A bit pricey at $20-30 a can, but totally worth it.

 

[atmat]

Edit to add: I really like and prefer the slim recoil pad on these rifle.

Me, too. It’s perfect for lower caliber carriages that are suppressed or braked.

I can’t speak to how it performs beyond 6.5cm.