Stock Recommendation

[cnrx]

Hey guys I have Rem 700 BDL in 300 RUM. It currently has the factory wooden stock on it and I am looking to upgrade but don't have any experience with aftermarket stocks. I'm looking for something that would be better for shooting from prone. Does not have to be ultralight as I am looking to add a little weight to tame recoil some as the rifle is not braked. I don't want to spend a fortune but I'm not looking to cheap out either. Primary purpose of the rifle will be for hunting in the west. If you need any more info let me know.
Thanks for your time and help.

 

[338edge]

I really like my McMillan A-3!!

 

[Shrek]

With a RUM I'd add a brake. I personally hate hunting with a brake but there's no way I'm shooting a RUM without one. Especially from prone. If you are a little handy with paint , fitting , and bedding a stock you could pick up a McMillan A3 or A5 second off Bushmen.us . First thing id do is add a brake though.

 

[bkondeff]

Considering this is a long range forum, I'd assume you intend to shoot that big mag farther than 400 yds! With that assumption, and the fact any RUM has massive recoil, especially unbroke, I would not go cheap on the stock. The stock and the bedding has a lot to do with felt recoil and accuracy. I would look at quality makers like McMillan and Manners. At minimum the B&C Medalist.

 

[muledhunter]

I have a b&c a 2 and absolutely love it. Best bang for your buck. red hawk rifles has them for cheap.

 

[cnrx]

Thanks for the replies guy.

Yes I certainly plan to extend my range out to 800 and maybe a little beyond if possible. Recoil is certainly noticeable but manageable while sitting or kneeling, but I usually have to keep my range sessions short to avoid developing a flinch. I have thought about having a brake added, sounds like I need to take the advise I'm getting here and brake it.

When I first bought the rifle I had the wooden stock bedded and the smith that did it told me that the barrel contour of my rifle was recommended to NOT be free floated, instead it should have slight upward pressure at the end of the forearm to improve accuracy. Would adding a brake affect this in any way? I guess my concern is that I upgrade the stock, add a break, then the rifle doesn't shoot. I plan to re-barrel the rifle but was hoping to be able to that down the road.

I remember a break thread on here I will check that out.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[GKPrice]

Thanks for the replies guy.

Yes I certainly plan to extend my range out to 800 and maybe a little beyond if possible. Recoil is certainly noticeable but manageable while sitting or kneeling, but I usually have to keep my range sessions short to avoid developing a flinch. I have thought about having a brake added, sounds like I need to take the advise I'm getting here and brake it.

When I first bought the rifle I had the wooden stock bedded and the smith that did it told me that the barrel contour of my rifle was recommended to NOT be free floated, instead it should have slight upward pressure at the end of the forearm to improve accuracy. Would adding a brake affect this in any way? I guess my concern is that I upgrade the stock, add a break, then the rifle doesn't shoot. I plan to re-barrel the rifle but was hoping to be able to that down the road.

I remember a break thread on here I will check that out.

Thanks for the help guys.

Richard Buss / Muzzle Master brakes - every person I know or who has commented on the topic of brakes here has stated they'd not use any other after having one (or two) and for stocks don't forget MPI stocks in Portland OR, they basically originated the ultra light stock and have never let me down

 

[GKPrice]

I have a b&c a 2 and absolutely love it. Best bang for your buck. red hawk rifles has them for cheap.

Bell & Carlson has a lot of them too ...... (they sell direct)

 

[pyroducksx3]

For the money the greybull stock ,made for them by bell carlson, is tough to beat. I have one and it performs well. I also have manners t2 and there is no denying that the extra money the manners cost was worth it. But again the grey bull is a very good more affordable stock.

 

[solo06]

When I first bought the rifle I had the wooden stock bedded and the smith that did it told me that the barrel contour of my rifle was recommended to NOT be free floated, instead it should have slight upward pressure at the end of the forearm to improve accuracy.

Regarding the philosophy of not floating the barrel in favor of some upward pressure at the end of the forearm, I've heard that too with regard to my older Weatherby Mark V wood-stocked rifle (it has a narrow "pencil barrel" contour). The problem was, the rifle wouldn't shoot well (groups approaching 2"). A gunsmith recommended carefully inserting equal amounts of aluminum foil (for equal/balanced lift) under the front and rear of the action (under the front recoil lug and just behind the rear action screw), just enough to float the barrel, in order to test fire the rifle and see if floating the barrel would help the group size. My groups dropped to just under 1 MOA. Yep, I'm having that barrel floated!

I've talked to a few gunsmiths since then. They've all said that they have seen some rifles shoot well with a little upward pressure. This can be ok if the manufacturer has carefully designed this pressure into the construction and fit of the stock. At the same time, they've all commented that they've never seen a rifle shoot worse after being floated, even if it had been originally designed to have some of that upward stock pressure.

An additional complication/concern with the upward pressure design with a wood-stocked rifle is that the wood can shift over time with extended age and/or moisture differences. So, the amount, and potentially also the direction, of pressure from the stock against the barrel would also change... which would result in inconsistencies.

I'm guessing that you're considering changing the stock and also eventually re-barreling the rifle because you're not happy with how it's shooting. I'm also guessing that the replacement stock will be designed to have the barrel floated. So, I'd first recommend testing to confirm that the rifle will shoot well with a floated barrel. If it shoots worse with a floated barrel (which would be surprising), then a new stock with a floated-barrel design won't help. If it shoots better with a floated barrel (or at least equally well), and since you said that your action has already been bedded to the wood stock (which is good), it would be easiest and cheapest to just have the barrel floated in that wood stock. You could also still purchase an additional synthetic stock if you wanted to, but at least you would know in advance that it will shoot well with a floated barrel stock design.