Stick on rest and tape

[bisblue]

Hey folks, I was recently paper tuning my longbow and noticed I was putting in some bow torque and string torque. It took me several weeks to get from big tears to something like this.

I had a bear weather weather rest and put it,on as I heard an elevated rest could give more forgiveness on dealing with those issues.

Two questions, does anyone have a preference for stick on rests, and does anyone have a good double sided tape that is thinner than the standard 3m white tape?

 

[jimh406]

Flipper rests are pretty good. I found the tape that comes with them pretty good. If you aren't shooting feathers, consider that change as well.

 

[Steadman]

I use the bear weather rest. The tape on them
is good.

 

[primal.wanderings]

I also use the Bear Weather Rest. I tear off the tape and use rubber cement to glue it to the riser window. It gets it a little closer to center shot that way and it’s removable incase I change my mind.

 

[Blackcow]

^^ yup. Tape off, barge cement it on. I rarely use one anymore but when I do…..
Cut the top of the rest off above the arm. Cut the bottom of the arm off, below the “bear”.
I use Velcro or calf hair above ( where the top of the rest used to be), and cover the bottom in Velcro or moleskin. Just cut a slit in the top for the arm. A small square of leukotape or similar folded over the arm to keep the occasional squeak away. Or…….
Hoyt super rest or super hunter. Don’t do much to it. Great rest.

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

I also use the Bear Weather Rest. I tear off the tape and use rubber cement to glue it to the riser window. It gets it a little closer to center shot that way and it’s removable incase I change my mind.

What he said. I use and love the Bear Weather rest on all my recurves. I used to use the tape it came with - which is perfectly fine and lasts forever, but found that a little contact cement gets me closer to center, and it’s just as easy to remove as the tape.

 

[bisblue]

^^ yup. Tape off, barge cement it on. I rarely use one anymore but when I do…..
Cut the top of the rest off above the arm. Cut the bottom of the arm off, below the “bear”.
I use Velcro or calf hair above ( where the top of the rest used to be), and cover the bottom in Velcro or moleskin. Just cut a slit in the top for the arm. A small square of leukotape or similar folded over the arm to keep the occasional squeak away. Or…….
Hoyt super rest or super hunter. Don’t do much to it. Great rest.

I'm not sure I follow the part about "and cover the bottom in Velcro or moleskin. Just cut a slit in the top for the arm"

 

[Blackcow]

When I get home I’ll try and take a pic

 

[Blackcow]

Here ya go. Apart, put kinda together, and a random pic of a Pearson deadhead out of a batch I rust blued lol. Getting ready to get the bevel back in shape. That’s not always how I do it, and the bottom is trimmed more than normal. It was on an A&H and I was getting it as low as possible. You can cover the whole shebang in Velcro, and just cut a slit for the arm to poke through, but 2 parts is easier if you need/ want to shim the side plate out with something. Don’t always use Velcro, sometimes it’s moleskin or stealth strip if I have any left laying around. I next to never use a rest anymore anyway so…
I will say, way back when I never had a noise issue with wood or aluminum on the arm. Now, some carbons will freaking screach their way back. Dusty, wet or just damp, I’ve had em do it. The worst is high modulus or 3k woven .204’s. So…. Put something over the arm. The thing that sucks, it doesn’t always do it. Just at the wrong times. Ask me how I know!
You can always just slap that sucker on as is. You may need it further out. Mo right or wrong .

 

[GreenNDark Timber]

Bear Weather Rest with stock tape here also. I always keep a new spare one ready to go in my pack and a picture of it's exact mounting location on my phone.

 

[bisblue]

View attachment 1052277View attachment 1052274View attachment 1052276
Here ya go. Apart, put kinda together, and a random pic of a Pearson deadhead out of a batch I rust blued lol. Getting ready to get the bevel back in shape. That’s not always how I do it, and the bottom is trimmed more than normal. It was on an A&H and I was getting it as low as possible. You can cover the whole shebang in Velcro, and just cut a slit for the arm to poke through, but 2 parts is easier if you need/ want to shim the side plate out with something. Don’t always use Velcro, sometimes it’s moleskin or stealth strip if I have any left laying around. I next to never use a rest anymore anyway so…
I will say, way back when I never had a noise issue with wood or aluminum on the arm. Now, some carbons will freaking screach their way back. Dusty, wet or just damp, I’ve had em do it. The worst is high modulus or 3k woven .204’s. So…. Put something over the arm. The thing that sucks, it doesn’t always do it. Just at the wrong times. Ask me how I know!
You can always just slap that sucker on as is. You may need it further out. Mo right or wrong .

Thanks that's helpful

 

[Blackcow]

You bet. You’ll probably be good to go with just sticking it on. I have a 31” draw, rarely cut to tune and like having as much centershot available as I can. I mostly shoot .244-.246 arrows too.