Stabilizers, what are they really doing, why do we use them?

[bsims01]

I have a stabilizer and back bar on mine. I don’t notice much of a benefit to the stabilizer, but the back bar helps offset some torque from the front sight. I’ll probably run the back bar In the future and leave the stabilizer in the case.

 

[esven89]

Don’t crucify me as I feel like I am in the miniority here, but I use a 15” front bar and a 10” back bar……let me explain lol

I’m a long time target shooter so I have setup my bows pretty much the same every time. What I try to do with my bows is have a bit of bias in them. By using some side weight on the back bar, I have to use a bit of muscle to hold it upright. This helps “lock in” the bow and prevent movement. I will say that it’s not so much that if I don’t look at my bubble that it’s going to be far off….but it’s enough that I have to put a little effort into it. I also find a heavier bow helps me significantly. Keep in mind I hunt out west in an area that constantly has wind. As far as hiking with a heavy bow…..I lay it across my shoulders and i can hold the stabilizer with 1 finger….thw bow itself basically lays across the top of my pack.

As far as the weight on my stabilizers, my 15” front bar has 5oz and my 10” sidebar has 12oz

 

[roosiebull]

For western hunting, I went away from any stabilizers. The benefits to my lack of form, were offset I felt by the benefit of not carrying as much weight all day.

Meaning, weight makes my bow more forgiving, but carrying 12+ ounces less for hours on end benefits me more than having a little more on the overall.

Like heavy boots, sometimes you need them, but sometimes its better to have the energy to cover more ground than bricks on your feet.

I’m a light boot and no stabilizer guy, and if you do that over 25yrs, there is never a time when I wish I had either

I have tried both, and it ain’t my thing. I have spent my whole life running around rocking boats in rubber boots with zero ankle support, and running around the hills in boots with no ankle support with various amounts of weight on my back, and have never had any issues due to that

My hunting shots are almost always top pin, just how it generally works out on the coast, I don’t know that I’ve killed 10 critters beyond 30yds, so I don’t need a target bow shooting an 800# animal at 12yds

I think a lot of it has to do with the hunting we do, none of it is one size fits all.

I absolutely hate back bars on hunting bows, and they seem to generally make a bow feel better to me than a front if I had to pick. I just try to only shoot bows that don’t “need” stabilizers

The longer mathews are a good example, the lift 33 is a really nice bow, but without any stabilizers, I don’t like it, it would be a bow I would love to own if the grip was moved up a little. I know they do things for a reason, but it ain’t for me for that reason.

With my history, I would probably not even set stabilizers up properly if I went all in, I would likely do what you are saying not to do, using them to cover up some other imperfection vs tweaking an already good hold.

I generally put an S coil on the front mount and an A bomb in the rear because there is no such thing as too quiet, but they certainly aren’t for stabilizing anything

 

[Billy Goat]

Don’t crucify me as I feel like I am in the miniority here, but I use a 15” front bar and a 10” back bar……let me explain lol

I’m a long time target shooter so I have setup my bows pretty much the same every time. What I try to do with my bows is have a bit of bias in them. By using some side weight on the back bar, I have to use a bit of muscle to hold it upright. This helps “lock in” the bow and prevent movement. I will say that it’s not so much that if I don’t look at my bubble that it’s going to be far off….but it’s enough that I have to put a little effort into it. I also find a heavier bow helps me significantly. Keep in mind I hunt out west in an area that constantly has wind. As far as hiking with a heavy bow…..I lay it across my shoulders and i can hold the stabilizer with 1 finger….thw bow itself basically lays across the top of my pack.

As far as the weight on my stabilizers, my 15” front bar has 5oz and my 10” sidebar has 12oz

The only issue I find with setting bars up for bias with a hunting setup, is once you are shooting from really odd positions. That bias can make you do odd things that broadheads pick up on.

But what you are shooting falls in line with where I feel like they can actually be adding some stability to the bow. I generally won't bother with less than 12" back bar anymore if I'm going to use one.

The longer mathews are a good example, the lift 33 is a really nice bow, but without any stabilizers, I don’t like it, it would be a bow I would love to own if the grip was moved up a little.

Its adding weight, but 4-6oz screwed into the v-bar mount typically fixes that. For broadheads, I definitely don't mind the low grip in exchange for flat nock travel.

But its not wonder they ship the Title with that 8 ounces on the bottom.

 

[Beendare]

When I used to shoot competitively I used a stabilizer....but for the last couple decades no.

Has anyone that is a tourney archer ever tested shooting with/without a stabilizer and determined the accuracy gain?

I suppose it wouldn't be a blind study....hard to not know there is bars and a stabilizer on there.....

 

[mighteywhitehunter]

I moved away from the traditional front and back bars to the Bee Stinger Micro Hex Counter slide. I mount it low, in the rear stabilizer hole. I like it because it allows for balance left and right, front and back and keeps the weight low and close to the bow. I keep it very light with only a few oz on it so that the bow doesn't weigh 20lbs.

Since you guys mentioned it, will shoot my bows sans Counterslide and see how they shoot.

 

[2Stamp]

So going back about 8 years ago I started using a side bar to counter the quiver. I really like it for that aspect. I've shot a carbon bow of some sort on/of since 2020. They are almost too light for me, especially shooting out to 80yds (which I practice out to for potential pronghorn, and it just makes my shorter shots feel easier). So I've gone to adding weight to the bow via stabs front and side. The worst for me was the Mach 1 and Mach 30. I went to an RX-9 this year. Two things stand out, it's a little heavier combined with the lower mounting hole, the combo works better for me. With the Low position I use a shorter 8" stab, along with their kickstand. I still use a side bar to counter the quiver. It honestly doesn't bother me. As for carrying the bow, it's either across my shoulders, in the crook of my arm, or the long hikes in/out strapped to my bow.

I tried the short Hoyt stab on the front and the bow just didn't hold as steady for me. I may experiment over the winter with reducing the use for the stabs, we'll see. I suspect with the carbon riser though, I'll be right back to the setup.

 

[Billy Goat]

When I used to shoot competitively I used a stabilizer....but for the last couple decades no.

Has anyone that is a tourney archer ever tested shooting with/without a stabilizer and determined the accuracy gain?

I suppose it wouldn't be a blind study....hard to not know there is bars and a stabilizer on there.....

Maybe it didn't convey, or was in the previous discussion.

But with a good shot, there's no difference. The difference is with a bad shot, the arrow doesn't land as far off.


Generally keeps a bad shot as a jar licker 10, or (X) on 5 spot, but without it turns into a jar licker 9.

For me.

So its still a miss, just not an as bad miss.

 

[doc holiday13]

stabilizers are subjective to each bow.

My old mathew z7 didn't need one. My hoyt ventum has the factory supplied low mounted 2" vibration damping stabilizer. It definitely makes a difference in shooting. I tried adding a 8" stabilizer, but didn't see any improvement.

It does get a little silly on some people's bows though

 

[Beendare]

Maybe it didn't convey, or was in the previous discussion.

But with a good shot, there's no difference. The difference is with a bad shot, the arrow doesn't land as far off.


Generally keeps a bad shot as a jar licker 10, or (X) on 5 spot, but without it turns into a jar licker 9.

For me.

So its still a miss, just not an as bad miss.

I talked to a couple of top shooter buddies I trust since I last posted asking about this subject.

They are convinced that correcting the bow for movement on the shot enhances accuracy. These are guys that tweak and test for improved scores- I believe them. It may only be a few points on a 3D range but to them it's the difference between a win and a loss.....so it stands to reason it won't make a lick of difference to a guy like myself that is now an avg Compound shooter at best.

It looks like the new Mathews Arc has taken bow balance to another level.

 

[Moosehunter]

The only issue I find with setting bars up for bias with a hunting setup, is once you are shooting from really odd positions. That bias can make you do odd things that broadheads pick up on.

But what you are shooting falls in line with where I feel like they can actually be adding some stability to the bow. I generally won't bother with less than 12" back bar anymore if I'm going to use one.




Its adding weight, but 4-6oz screwed into the v-bar mount typically fixes that. For broadheads, I definitely don't mind the low grip in exchange for flat nock travel.

But its not wonder they ship the Title with that 8 ounces on the bottom.

Care to elaborate a bit more on the nock travel comment?
Does it make it that much easier to broadhead tune vs other good competitors? Appreciate your thoughts and input. Thanks!

 

[Billy Goat]

Care to elaborate a bit more on the nock travel comment?
Does it make it that much easier to broadhead tune vs other good competitors? Appreciate your thoughts and input. Thanks!

That much easier, not really. I think it's easier, but can tune bows with fixed blades that don't have perfectly level nock travel too.


I do find that I can generally just measure for my nock point and leave it. Make very slight elevation adjustments with the rest instead of needing to move a nock point around on a string to keep the arrow where I want it in relation to the berger and riser cut out.

In my mind its just eliminating another variable. Some bows in a draw board move around a lot in a draw cycle, you have 2 wheels on either end, with a different distance to them, so they push and pull a little. When the bow is being held, its the string, especially the nock point that is moving up and down during the shot. I think an arrow can sometimes pickup that movement and carry it into the first part of the shot. With field points it doesn't matter at all, with a broadhead on the im not certain.

Don't know that I can prove that, haven't tried. Probably just come across as a poor tune anyways. But it's something I can eliminate so I do.

 

[HunterGatherer]

This thread really has me wondering if a lot of people are compensating for bad form or covering it up with stabs and weight on the bow. I know that if my form is correct the bow doesn’t shift noticeably whereas if my grip is a little off or my release is too tight or loose, I feel it at release. I definitely noticed it more when I took off my stab…

 

[Moosehunter]

Do most people shoot quiver on or off? To me personally it makes a difference. I "western" hunt and hunt quiver on exclusively. So that's how I practice, year round.
Now, @Billy Goat said earlier that adding weight, (ie back bar) that forces you to add a little bias into the grip (which some target archers like) could in the heat of that battle cause broadheads to fly weird as they pick up on very small things. Which I 100% agree with and can understand.
With that said, what's the difference between that and a quiver, sight, and rest hanging off the other side of your bow. My bow balances perfect with no quiver but then adding that I'm forced to bring in a subtle amount of "torque" to level the bubble. All that said, I still just use a small front stabilizer at most, and can shoot well with or without one. However, as a guy that always pushes to be better, I wonder if there's measurable merit in adding some weight so my bow more natural levels itself if u will. Now I'm not talking my bow is like 45° or anything..but ever so slightly off. Nothing I do with my grip can change it for the better.
I don't want big heavy long bars hanging everywhere. I'm more talking weighting the bow properly...not so much stabilization like target archers know it.

 

[2Stamp]

Do most people shoot quiver on or off? To me personally it makes a difference. I "western" hunt and hunt quiver on exclusively. So that's how I practice, year round.
Now, @Billy Goat said earlier that adding weight, (ie back bar) that forces you to add a little bias into the grip (which some target archers like) could in the heat of that battle cause broadheads to fly weird as they pick up on very small things. Which I 100% agree with and can understand.
With that said, what's the difference between that and a quiver, sight, and rest hanging off the other side of your bow. My bow balances perfect with no quiver but then adding that I'm forced to bring in a subtle amount of "torque" to level the bubble. All that said, I still just use a small front stabilizer at most, and can shoot well with or without one. However, as a guy that always pushes to be better, I wonder if there's measurable merit in adding some weight so my bow more natural levels itself if u will. Now I'm not talking my bow is like 45° or anything..but ever so slightly off. Nothing I do with my grip can change it for the better.
I don't want big heavy long bars hanging everywhere. I'm more talking weighting the bow properly...not so much stabilization like target archers know it.

I shoot quiver on, all year. I find the back bar is key for my bow to settle level with the quiver on.

 

[3forks]

Now I'm not talking my bow is like 45° or anything..but ever so slightly off. Nothing I do with my grip can change it for the better.

Try correcting your level by orienting/positioning your shoulder instead of adding torque into your grip or wrist.

 

[Billy Goat]

With that said, what's the difference between that and a quiver, sight, and rest hanging off the other side of your bow.

I think the rest and sight change the side to side balance very little, a sight is mounted less than 3/4" off center, with a lot of weight in front, and centered, depending on what sight style. A rest has most of the weight inside the attachment point as well, so those 2 things don't really add much lean. A quiver can, but it seems like most mounting options have gotten pretty slim anymore.

I think most will probably shoot just slightly better with no quiver and that weight put low on the riser instead. I don't think it makes enough of a difference to be removing the quiver for hunting situations and sacrificing the ability of having a second arrow as easily accessible.

15 years ago, I used a hip quiver. I didn't like much of what was available for on the bow quiver options. I think they have caught up and several good options are available now.


Keep in mind too, torque is generally the twisting of the grip, like a centerline down the bow, and its actually forcing the front bar to point left or right. The grip pressure in the heal of your grip can cause this, especially if using that to try to level your bow. Using the inside edge of your thumb or index finger knuckle to tilt the bow isn't as likely to cause issues.

 

[Yoder]

I only used a small Limb saver stabilizer that was supposed to make the bow quieter and dampen vibration. My shoulder was bothering me so bad last year I could hardly hold up my bow, so I took off everything I didn't need. No stabilizer or quiver and I couldn't tell the difference. My bow was just lighter.