SS34 conundrums

[Zac]

On my second set of cables and string with this SS34. Off the shelf the ATA was 3/4 long. Threadz sent me a set that was 1/4 shorter on each set of cables. So 1/2 inch shorter in total. When I put them on I was about 1 quarter short on ATA, brace was at 3/4 too long, and the poundage was 8 pounds over. I've untwisted everything down to where my ATA is spot on 34, Brace is still an 8th long. I'm able to get poundage down to around 73 with the limb bolts. The timing is very retarted in this position. Cables sit right on the first timing hole. I've tried 3 different rests, Epsilon, Hybrid, and a Prophecy. All smack the shelf with the shaft going straight through the Bergers. I can put the bottom of the shaft running through top 3rd or slightly higher and barely get clearance. When I set center shot at 13/16 the arrow hangs off to the left side of the riser. Even if I max the the Deadlock all the way to the left it still overhangs. I am able to suck Center shot in, however I think I will run into clearance issues with my Hybrid Hunters. So I think I will be forced to use something fairly low profile.
I'm just wondering if anyone else has had similar experiences? This is my first foray into Bowtech.

 

[NXTZ]

Sounds like there could be something funky going on still with the strings/cables, if you have the tools, maybe pull those off and measure under tension to see how they compare to the factory specs? I’d really try to get the specs and draw weight close to factory before doing anything else.

I *think* my revolt x (a few years older than the ss34) liked a closer center shot, maybe 3/4 or even 11/16. I’m pretty sure my arrow was almost on top of the Berger hole-definitely higher than some other bows.
You can “reset” the cams to center, and set the rest so your arrow is centered in the limb bolts as a starting point, and see how that tunes.

Did you get the bow used or new?

 

[Zac]

Sounds like there could be something funky going on still with the strings/cables, if you have the tools, maybe pull those off and measure under tension to see how they compare to the factory specs? I’d really try to get the specs and draw weight close to factory before doing anything else.

I *think* my revolt x (a few years older than the ss34) liked a closer center shot, maybe 3/4 or even 11/16. I’m pretty sure my arrow was almost on top of the Berger hole-definitely higher than some other bows.
You can “reset” the cams to center, and set the rest so your arrow is centered in the limb bolts as a starting point, and see how that tunes.

Did you get the bow used or new?

Bought it new last year. Specs were off when I got it. It was 2 pounds under. I twisted everything up on the factory set, my first set of Threadz were the same as the factory set. It sounds like tuning them with the shaft higher as well as closer to the riser is the norm with them.

 

[NXTZ]

Since you bought it new (and assuming your shop is good) I’d really suggest you visit them and see if they can help get it back in spec. For ata/brace measures, I think it’s common/acceptable to be off by 1/8” from the manufacturer specs; obviously twisting things to raise dw will affect the specs, but what you’re describing sounds like a pretty big difference.

Are you certain that everything is routed correctly? Like cables oriented right in the roller guard?

 

[BadTostada]

Bought it new last year. Specs were off when I got it. It was 2 pounds under. I twisted everything up on the factory set, my first set of Threadz were the same as the factory set. It sounds like tuning them with the shaft higher as well as closer to the riser is the norm with them.

Just curious, are the specs expected to be the same for either setting on the flip disc?

 

[Zac]

Just curious, are the specs expected to be the same for either setting on the flip disc?

That’s a good question I have not thought about flipping the disc.

 

[nphunter]

I think a lot of manufactures are off with their specs. My PSE wasn’t close and the weight was under when everything else was close. With the timing marks lined up ATA and BH were both over and it was 68lbs.

When I put custom cams and limbs on it I had to build custom string lengths. I ended up just making my timing marks on the cams line up and everything else I didn’t really pay attention to. My weight came in at almost 74lbs which I like with that timing marks perfect.

My rest was also hitting the riser and I talked to John (Breathn), I ended up raising the loop and then the rest above the Berger hole. No more hitting the riser. As far as the center shot goes do you have any cam lean? You may have a stiff or weak limb that needs swapped around. I had to swap my limbs around from top to bottom because of a low tear that wouldn’t go away and it changed my center shot alot. I had a thick shim on one side and a thin on the other and had to swap them after moving limbs.

I was able to get bullet holes in paper with my center shot allowing the arrow to come straight out of the bow. I can’t stand looking down the arrow and it kicking to one side or the other to get a tune. After the initial setup I don’t measure center shot again as long as the arrow is straight.

Talking to John, he fells all that matters is how the arrow is coming from the bow and if you’re happy with the weight. I was also talking with him about a custom bow that has never been built so it’s somewhat different. The reason for the call was because I was getting too hung up on specs.

I know looking through the tune charts PSE shows 34” ATA with each cam they offer on the Mach 34 which seems impossible and from what I’ve seen none were actually 34” exactly.

What was your goal with getting shorter cables? I would assume BT would have sent it through QC before sending it out. It might be common for the ATA to run long on their bows.

If I were in your shoes I would get the weight where you want it, the draw length where you want it, get it timed and tune for flight from there. You should also be twisting and untwisting the string as well as the cables. If you shortened the cables and not the string your draw length and holding weight will be off, you should be able to move your timing back in between the marks by shortening or lengthening the string depending on which way it needs to go. Your timing marks are balanced between the cables and string. If you untwisted the cables a bunch to get the ATA correct but now your timing is off. Untwist the string to bring the marks back in line.

Allen, AKA (Nuts and Bolts) has a great article that talks about all of this. I think you can Google it still and find it.

 

[Zac]

I think a lot of manufactures are off with their specs. My PSE wasn’t close and the weight was under when everything else was close. With the timing marks lined up ATA and BH were both over and it was 68lbs.

When I put custom cams and limbs on it I had to build custom string lengths. I ended up just making my timing marks on the cams line up and everything else I didn’t really pay attention to. My weight came in at almost 74lbs which I like with that timing marks perfect.

My rest was also hitting the riser and I talked to John (Breathn), I ended up raising the loop and then the rest above the Berger hole. No more hitting the riser. As far as the center shot goes do you have any cam lean? You may have a stiff or weak limb that needs swapped around. I had to swap my limbs around from top to bottom because of a low tear that wouldn’t go away and it changed my center shot alot. I had a thick shim on one side and a thin on the other and had to swap them after moving limbs.

I was able to get bullet holes in paper with my center shot allowing the arrow to come straight out of the bow. I can’t stand looking down the arrow and it kicking to one side or the other to get a tune. After the initial setup I don’t measure center shot again as long as the arrow is straight.

Talking to John, he fells all that matters is how the arrow is coming from the bow and if you’re happy with the weight. I was also talking with him about a custom bow that has never been built so it’s somewhat different. The reason for the call was because I was getting too hung up on specs.

I know looking through the tune charts PSE shows 34” ATA with each cam they offer on the Mach 34 which seems impossible and from what I’ve seen none were actually 34” exactly.

What was your goal with getting shorter cables? I would assume BT would have sent it through QC before sending it out. It might be common for the ATA to run long on their bows.

If I were in your shoes I would get the weight where you want it, the draw length where you want it, get it timed and tune for flight from there. You should also be twisting and untwisting the string as well as the cables. If you shortened the cables and not the string your draw length and holding weight will be off, you should be able to move your timing back in between the marks by shortening or lengthening the string depending on which way it needs to go. Your timing marks are balanced between the cables and string. If you untwisted the cables a bunch to get the ATA correct but now your timing is off. Untwist the string to bring the marks back in line.

Allen, AKA (Nuts and Bolts) has a great article that talks about all of this. I think you can Google it still and find it.

Thanks this is very helpful. I did untwist the string with the cables. Everything is good spec wise right now. My circumstance seems very similar to what you dealt with. Also having issues with nock low tear. Although I think it may be a spine issue. I got some Victory 235 spines to try out. Thankyou for your help I appreciate it.

 

[nphunter]

Thanks this is very helpful. I did untwist the string with the cables. Everything is good spec wise right now. My circumstance seems very similar to what you dealt with. Also having issues with nock low tear. Although I think it may be a spine issue. I got some Victory 235 spines to try out. Thankyou for your help I appreciate it.

I’m not sure your draw but I tried a stiffer spine and had the same result. It ended up tuning with a 340.

27.6” draw, 74lbs, 27.5” arrow with 160gr up front. The bows shooting 341IBO

 

[Zac]

I’m not sure your draw but I tried a stiffer spine and had the same result. It ended up tuning with a 340.

27.6” draw, 74lbs, 27.5” arrow with 160gr up front. The bows shooting 341IBO

30.5, haven’t figured out poundage yet, probably somewhere between 73-76.

 

[Zac]

Got it figured out today. ATA is exactly 34, brace is 16th long. 13/16 off the riser, turned the deadlock quarter turn on both the cams from the starting point. Arrow is running right down middle of riser and stabilizer. Nock height is 1/8 high with timing dead on. Still higher on the riser than I would prefer. Poundage is 74, haven’t checked actual draw length yet. Tuned up pretty quickly with a full length 235 spine VAP TKO with 150 up front. I believe the 300s I had were just too weak.