- Joined
- Mar 1, 2023
- Messages
- 86
How do you train yourself not to blink when the shot goes off?
Shoot a lot with a smaller caliber low recoiling rifle. I have a heavy barrel 223.How do you train yourself not to blink when the shot goes off?
zoom out and work back down once you're seeing shots - I'm working on the same. Shooting a 10.5lb braked 7prc & 4-25x scope now vs. a 6.5cm suppressed 3-18x and had no issue seeing shots when positioning was right. I'm not having issue with the recoil so much as the report - the brake is just so loud i'm flinching/blinking more and on the higher zoom losing target...i've backed down to 15x and it's getting better. waiting on a suppressor which should help too
Suppressors should be mandated original factory supplied equipment by the ATF Safety Regulatory board
and a pricey tax stamp with accompanying exorbitant waiting period for muzzle brakes.
you're joking but i bought suppressor for my kid to protect his hearing b/c he's from my seed and i know he'll forget earpro when hunting. they are safety devices.. and yeah, brakes are loud but even worse in any shooting house - your eyeballs rattle.
No, and I don't use a break. However there are tunable breaks with threaded holes. You can mess with the configuration until it recoils how you want.Has anyone tried indexing a muzzle break 10 - 20 degrees to compensate for right to left movement during recoil? I know a few PRS shooter who talk about it and Gunwerks recommends it for their breaks, but curious if it has been tried in field situations?
A bit part of this is a scope with appropriate eye relief. The other part is appropriate recoil management. If the optic gets close enough to your eye under recoil, you are going to flinch. Poor eye relief and substantial recoil are a recipe for difficulty even if you’re not getting that signature cut/bruise.How do you train yourself not to blink when the shot goes off?
If canting the buttplate is helping, is it compensating ( aka: crutch) for a fault in my shooting
position? If a fault I expect I should try to trace it down and correct it. Open to suggestions.
Or is it just something that better suits my natural physique, shooting style, whatever and
go with it ?
Checking natural point of aim?So I've been practicing a little. Picnic table, bag front, left hand rear rest.
10X fixed SWFA ( the true Rokslide Special is a tough acquisition what with
SWFA 6X wait times exceeding even suppressor wait times) and KRG Bravo stock.
I raised the adjustable butt plate to it's highest position. That has helped muzzle jump.
It seemed like at times I'd send one left. Amd the rifle would return to rest at 9:00.
The sight picture just slightly jumps out of the scope, which is a lot better than it
did before raising the butt plate. Trying to adjust what I know - neutral thumb,
right hand grip but end of fingers loose, straight as possible. Somehow I'm not consistent.
So I canted the butt plate to first position clockwise ( about 1:30) and for whatever reason
it feels better, more natural, and it appears I'm more consistent. Instead of coming back to rest
at 9:00 it comes back pretty much on target.
If canting the buttplate is helping, is it compensating ( aka: crutch) for a fault in my shooting
position? If a fault I expect I should try to trace it down and correct it. Open to suggestions.
Or is it just something that better suits my natural physique, shooting style, whatever and
go with it ?
A tarp is cheap, I was using one today as we are in break-up and everything is a slushy mess. Tarps are a little slick, unless you have canvas.I've only tried it from the bench. Too wet and snowy on the ground yet to try from actual field positions,
which was already on my short list. I've just been checking loads, trying to settle on one practice load (which I'm sure you can guess what it is
The other rifles are not adjustable, however they aren't going to get much, if any, use from here on out
from me.
@Formidilosus are you able to get a proper neutral grip on the factory T3X stock with vertical grip? I definitely don't seem to be able to get the meaty part of my thumb that far inboard.Neutral thumb: Inline with bore/tang of rifle. Meaty base of the thumb providing 6 o’clock bracing on grip. Minimizes induced torque and lateral shifts due to clenching, while still offering solid recoil control support with firing hand.
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Versus
Thumb over grip: Thumb wrapped around grip in conventional manner. Exaggerates any torque or clenching of hand into lateral shifts, and tends to reduce the trigger fingers ability to break at 90°.
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Thumb on side, aka- PRS grip: Totally removes thumb from equation. No torque induced, however zero recoil control support as well.
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A quality muzzle brake goes a long way. They let you stay in the scope and track your impacts much betterHow do you train yourself not to blink when the shot goes off?