Sporter Barrel Contours

gbflyer

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Remington standard sporter contour is as heavy as I go for a hunting rifle I’m gonna pack. You’re only gonna need one shot. It’s about a #3.5 if there was such a thing on a Douglas contour chart.
 
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RMajors

RMajors

Lil-Rokslider
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If going with a 26" barrel I guess one thing that I would want to know is what stock are you going with?? If going with a 26" #4 and a lighter weight stock you might find that the balance of your rifle will serious suck.

If you go with a Bartlein, which I would suggest I wouldn't go more than their #3 which is similar to most other #4 contours. But that still might not be idea balance wise??
I'm not at all sure what stock I want to use yet. I'm very open to suggestions if you or anybody else know of a good choice for this application. I've generally always had my factory stocks worked on (bedded and floated if necessary) and have been happy with the results. The only 26" barrel I've ever owned was a Browning a-bolt medallion 25-06 that was with a high gloss stock. It handled well, but was quite prone to scratching. Maybe a wood stock wouldn't be the worst idea? I wouldn't mind a factory cdl stock at all, I've always like the way they look. With bedding and barrel channel work I believe it would work fine.
 
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RMajors

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Lil-Rokslider
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Keep in mind the countour number is not standardized between all of them. A Barlein 3b is a Shilen 5 and a Kreiger 5 is close to a Shilen 5 but not exactly the same and so on.
Yes sir I have been figuring that out in my searches. It seems everybody names the same size a little differently.
 

Tmac

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Yes I should have mentioned what brands I am looking at. Krieger's numbers are what I was going off of, but Bartlein and Shilen were other considerations. It sounds like I may need to do a lot more research.
With weight being something you are considering, another thing you might want to look at is the bore diameter. .257 is a fairly small hole, meaning you can probably get away with #3 and still have good stiffness. I have a 25-06 with Krieger #3 and shoot it to 600 with great accuracy and it holds its zero for a good number of shots. It’s just 24”, but the rifle does not feel heavy, which my 280 with a 24” Brux #5 does. Not sure how it would compare to a fluted 4 or 5 taper, but it’s just a thought I had reading your query.
 
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Lil-Rokslider
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I think I've about decided to buy a used 700 cdl in 7mm mag or 300 win mag and get the action squared up and rebarreled to 257 weatherby. I think the weight of the wood stock should balance the long barrel decently well. Thanks for all the input guys.
 
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Lil-Rokslider
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I have a 240W on a 700 action with a 24" Douglas #2. It's a 6 pound rig. Gonna rebarrel it soon so may jump to #3.
View attachment 238581

For a carry rifle, a 257W + a #3 with a straighter taper is plenty. Blaser, for example, does it right. [Though you can limit the shank to 1.8".] I also think Remington's sporter would make a nice weight and shape for a 257W. FWIW, I have a 7RM w/a #4 PacNor w/flutes and just can't imagine needing all that beef for a 257W. Hope this helps!
I don't know how I didn't see this yesterday, but that's very helpful information. Thats a great looking rifle too, almost exactly how I pictured my barreled action looking. Love the stainless action/barrel with the black fluted bolt. I think the black bolt should accent the crossbolts in a cdl wood stock nicely.
 

MT257

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I think I've about decided to buy a used 700 cdl in 7mm mag or 300 win mag and get the action squared up and rebarreled to 257 weatherby. I think the weight of the wood stock should balance the long barrel decently well. Thanks for all the input guys.
If you buy a 700 cdl. And like that weight of the pre-rebarreled rifle PacNor can copy the factory contour of the barrel. I had them do that for my 257 cdl I had rebarreled. Only thing I didn’t do was flute it which I looking back wish I did to cut some weight. They can also be a one stop shop. Rebarrel and square the action up. So when you get it back all you will need to do is bed it if you wish or just put it back in the stock and start working on a load.

i know you didn’t mention PacNor but it’s just another option for ya.
 
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Mentioning your preference for a CDL stock makes it much easier to offer insight.

Here are a few things to think about:

>If going the CDL route, a Remington stock is going to be inlet for a Remington sporter contour. Be very clear that a Remington contour is unique. If it were me, I would absolutely go with Douglas for a Remington contour. Douglas has a long and proven record of cutting chambers for super accurate Weatherby cals! Another plus is you'll pay less than $600 for a chambered SS barrel and fitting. Remington made a lot of CDLs with a .540 bolt face so you might be OK finding one. If you buy a mag cal donor (257W, 7RM, 300WM), you'll have to match the inlet with a 700 mag sporter barrel.

>Option 2 is go with a custom inlet sporter stock in something like a McMillan 700 classic edge. I'd go with a PacNor #3 w/1.5" shank + have it fluted to knock off 6 oz.

>A third thought is to buy a CDL long action stock that is inlet for a 30/06 or 270 Win. That way you'd be inlet for a Douglas in Rem sporter #3 to cut a bit of barrel weight.

Also be aware that many of the barrels being recommended in this thread won't exceed 24" or 25" finished OAL, although 25" is plenty.

Lastly, I deem Oregonmuley as an excellent source for meaningful and reliable info. I've never communicated directly with him, but he always seems to demonstrate helpfulness, and from his rifle photo posts, he knows what a really smart hunting rifle should look like.
 
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One more thing: Stocky's site shows brand new CDL stocks for $228. If available, think about getting the LA version and going with a Douglas #3 Rem sporter. A #3 is plenty rigid for a 25 cal bore, and can be finish at 26".
 
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RMajors

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Lil-Rokslider
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Thanks for all the input gentlemen, I feel like I'm equipped with enough information to tackle my first semi-custom rifle now. Lots of good options for the barrel have been given, and good stock choices. I've already decided to go with a Triggertech primary, so all that's left is choosing the smith. A whole other can of worms there...
 
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Thanks for all the input gentlemen, I feel like I'm equipped with enough information to tackle my first semi-custom rifle now. Lots of good options for the barrel have been given, and good stock choices. I've already decided to go with a Triggertech primary, so all that's left is choosing the smith. A whole other can of worms there...
What do you need a gunsmith to do for you?

In case you aren't aware, you can send your receiver to some of the barrel makers listed and the newly barreled action comes back completely fit and finished. [They do the gunsmith part, too, and are very capable.]
 
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RMajors

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Lil-Rokslider
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What do you need a gunsmith to do for you?

In case you aren't aware, you can send your receiver to some of the barrel makers listed and the newly barreled action comes back completely fit and finished. [They do the gunsmith part, too, and are very capable.]
I suppose you're right, but I will need to get a bedding job and possibly barrel inletting. Thought I might as well let them install and chamber the barrel as well. But this is my first time doing any of this, and I appreciate your input. I'll have to look in to my options on this.
 
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If you do decide to go the gunsmith route I have a suggestion for you - there are plenty of smiths out there and you will get lots of different names but I might suggest Shaen Magan @ Shaen Rifles. Super nice guy to deal with, and although I've done a bunch of builds I still ask plenty of stupid questions and Shaen was more than gracious to put up with me:) And he does fantastic work with so far a darn quick turn around time on his work.
 
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RMajors

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Lil-Rokslider
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If you do decide to go the gunsmith route I have a suggestion for you - there are plenty of smiths out there and you will get lots of different names but I might suggest Shaen Magan @ Shaen Rifles. Super nice guy to deal with, and although I've done a bunch of builds I still ask plenty of stupid questions and Shaen was more than gracious to put up with me:) And he does fantastic work with so far a darn quick turn around time on his work.
Were any of your builds using wood stocks? I'm kind of set on using a factory cdl stock for mine. I don't think I'll need anything but bedding and maybe some light barrel inletting.
 
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I've only ever done one rebarrel and used the existing wood stock - it also happened to be a Remington CDL that really had a nice stock for a factory rifle. Everything else I've either used a McMillan Classic Edge or most recently a Proof Research stock. But if you do use a good smith, they could easily open up your stock - if there is enough in the fore-end to open up that is. Here is a picture of the one I did - this was a CDL 7mm-08 that I had rebarreled with a Shilen #3 contour finished @ 24". I actually had Shilen do the work and they did a good job, my only experience with having a barrel manufacture ever do the install. The CDL did have plenty of room to inlet for that barrel, but the balance wasn't great - a bit too much weight foreword which you may run into that also with the longer barrel.
I do really miss that stock, about the only wood stocked rifle I ever owned and liked the look:)

414494161.jpg
 
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