Spine Chart Confusion

[AlabamaMountainMan]

I am mapping out a new arrow build for a Warf I am piecing together and the spine charts don't "feel" right to me. I am looking into the Easton Carbon Legacy 5mm Fred Eichler shafts. The bow will be 40lb @ 28" but probably closer to 41-42lb at my draw length.

I plan on using the Simmons 200g interceptor along with the standard insert that comes with the shaft (16g).
- 200g Broadhead/FP
- 16g insert
- 34" shaft
- 4 4" parabolic feathers (2.75g/feather I think)
- 15g illuminated nock
Total weight will be around 540g depending on the exact spine I select.

The confusion comes from Eastons spine chart which says to add 3lb for every 25g over 100g on the point. Since I am using a 200g point, that would mean I need to get spine for a 54lb bow. According to Easton, that means I need a 300-250 spine. Does that seem right? I don't ever see anyone posting on forums or on youtube using 250 spine arrows. Most guys are shooting 40lb-45lb recurves, shooting 600-700g arrows with most of the weight in the insert or broadhead, and still using 400 spine arrows. Additionally, Easton doesn't even make this arrow in anything lower than 340 spine. No 300 or 250. What am I missing/not understanding?

 

[archp625]

The best luck I have had with spine charts and being pretty close is the Black eagle Spine chart.

Black Eagle Arrows Spine chart | by Black Eagle Arrows

Find the perfect arrows for your bow with the Black Eagle Arrows Spine chart. Compare different arrow sizes and spines to improve your archery game.

blackeaglearrows.com

I don't shoot their arrows, but it's been pretty accurate. As always, you still need to tune your arrows to your bow.

 

[AlabamaMountainMan]

The best luck I have had with spine charts and being pretty close is the Black eagle Spine chart.

Black Eagle Arrows Spine chart | by Black Eagle Arrows

Find the perfect arrows for your bow with the Black Eagle Arrows Spine chart. Compare different arrow sizes and spines to improve your archery game.

blackeaglearrows.com

I don't shoot their arrows, but it's been pretty accurate. As always, you still need to tune your arrows to your bow.

Hmm, that also seems to imply a 300 spine. So you don't think that seems too stiff being in the 300-250 range? I am just confused why so many folks can use 400 spines with super heavy, high FOC arrows when the charts don't seem to recommend that. Unless folks are cutting the arrows shorter.

 

[archp625]

I do not. You are shooting a 34" arrow. If you were shooting a shorter arrow then yes. Does it have to be a 34' arrow or do you think you will cut it down a little to tune it to your bow? I am only asking because I would go with a 350 arrow if you plan on cutting it a little.

 

[Beendare]

IME, The limbs will make a big difference...for example cheap limbs vs high energy Uukha limbs, the Uukhas need more arrow spine.

use the free Stu Miller calculator to get you close...but only if you input data correctly

 

[AlabamaMountainMan]

I do not. You are shooting a 34" arrow. If you were shooting a shorter arrow then yes. Does it have to be a 34' arrow or do you think you will cut it down a little to tune it to your bow? I am only asking because I would go with a 350 arrow if you plan on cutting it a little.

I considered trying the 34" to shrink the gap a bit, but I am not opposed to cutting to 31" since I use a 31" now and don't dislike my gap. I don't think I would want to cut below 30".

 

[AlabamaMountainMan]

IME, The limbs will make a big difference...for example cheap limbs vs high energy Uukha limbs, the Uukhas need more arrow spine.

use the free Stu Miller calculator to get you close...but only if you input data correctly

Unfortunately idk that I would be able to provide all the data needed. I definitely would not be using Uukha limbs, but I won't be buying the amazon special either. I was considering the DAS clear burl limbs.

 

[archp625]

I considered trying the 34" to shrink the gap a bit, but I am not opposed to cutting to 31" since I use a 31" now and don't dislike my gap. I don't think I would want to cut below 30".

This may be against some popular opinions, but have to tried doing a fixed craw? Tune the arrow to your bow. So 1-2" past the riser for safety and then put a brass nock below your double nock and play with it to get exactly what you want for your point on?

 

[AlabamaMountainMan]

This may be against some popular opinions, but have to tried doing a fixed craw? Tune the arrow to your bow. So 1-2" past the riser for safety and then put a brass nock below your double nock and play with it to get exactly what you want for your point on?

Yepp, I am doing that now. It's my preferred way to shoot. It has my point on at about 25 yards and manageable gap for everything below that. I just figured longer arrow would shrink the gap even more. Not a necessity if it causes problems for me in the long run.

 

[BigHink66]

IMO, at 31 inches from a 41 pound bow with 200 grains up front... 400 is the stiffest I would go. And I think you could get away with a 500.

Just based on my past experience.

I currently shoot a 350 at 31" with 225 grains up front and 60lb draw.

 

[AlabamaMountainMan]

IMO, at 31 inches from a 41 pound bow with 200 grains up front... 400 is the stiffest I would go. And I think you could get away with a 500.

Just based on my past experience.

I currently shoot a 350 at 31" with 225 grains up front and 60lb draw.

Gotcha. I have some 350 and 400 spines all at 31". I guess I'll try them out to get an idea of stiffness before I buy any new arrows. I just cannot imagine I need a 250.

 

[BigHink66]

I would not be suprised if 400 is stiff and will need more weight up front. Being a warf and centershot should help.

 

[AlabamaMountainMan]

I would not be suprised if 400 is stiff and will need more weight up front. Being a warf and centershot should help.

That would be nice. I may wind up with the 225 Safari instead of the 200g interceptor to get the slightly wider cut so there may be a little bit extra weight added.

 

[Beendare]

My bows past center shot will shoot stiffer shafts, they seem to like them better.

You can shim your side plate and play with that- in and out- to get the arrows that you do have to tune.

 

[AlabamaMountainMan]

My bows past center shot will shoot stiffer shafts, they seem to like them better.

You can shim your side plate and play with that- in and out- to get the arrows that you do have to tune.

I was planning on buying the Hoyt Satori side plate to tinker with that. The riser doesn't have a plunger hole so I can't use something like an accutune.

At this point it sounds like I'll just being tinkering with different spines and lengths for a while. Guess that's half the fun.