Sorting pistol brass

[horniac]

Like the OP, I too am gathering the necessary equipment and components to begin to reload my rifle hunting rounds so I am just starting to learn the process. I plan to reload my once fired factory ammunition brass and had a similar question.

1. Do I need to measure case capacity on each piece of brass if all the cases are from the same manufacturer for any given caliber?
2. I was listening to a podcast where the guest said he measured his rifle case capacities by using a primer plug and filling them with water and them weighing them. Seems like a very tedious process and I don’t understand why this would be necessary if the round is being loaded to SAMMI specs. Wouldn’t the case capacity always be sufficient to allow for the published powder charge especially if not using a maximum weight charge? Even from one brass manufacturer to the next?
3. I‘m not sure I understand the reason for measuring case capacity. Is this step for safety or for more accurate loads?

Thanks,

Horniac

 

[Wyobohunter]

1- No. I never measure case capacity. If you want to be accurate use the same manufacturer for any given load. I mark the head of each case with a sharpie whenever I use it and use my brass in lots.
2 and 3- I never measure capacity. I get sub MOA in every rifle I own aside from my 45-70. I do some tedious stuff (flash hole reaming and primer pocket uniforming, neck thickness uniforming etc) but never measure case capacity.

IMO two of the easiest things you can do to help your loads with accuracy is:
1- neck size only (unless you shoot a belted magnum). This makes each case Fire formed to your chamber and helps with concentricity. If you shoot a belted magnum you can neck size but be careful. They headspace off of the belt instead of the shoulder. I don’t and will not own a belted magnum for this reason.
2- Learn to measure your rifle for proper seating depth and play with that a little.

 

[horniac]

1- No. I never measure case capacity. If you want to be accurate use the same manufacturer for any given load. I mark the head of each case with a sharpie whenever I use it and use my brass in lots.
2 and 3- I never measure capacity. I get sub MOA in every rifle I own aside from my 45-70. I do some tedious stuff (flash hole reaming and primer pocket uniforming, neck thickness uniforming etc) but never measure case capacity.

IMO two of the easiest things you can do to help your loads with accuracy is:
1- neck size only (unless you shoot a belted magnum). This makes each case Fire formed to your chamber and helps with concentricity. If you shoot a belted magnum you can neck size but be careful. They headspace off of the belt instead of the shoulder. I don’t and will not own a belted magnum for this reason.
2- Learn to measure your rifle for proper seating depth and play with that a little.

Wybohunter thanks for taking the time to answer my questions it is greatly appreciated and helps out a lot!

Horniac

 

[Wyobohunter]

No problem! Something that will save you some tedious steps. Buy high quality brass if you can get it. I used to buy big bags of cheaper RP brass and do all of the PITA stuff to make it into match quality. Talk about hand cramps. Now I have Lapua brass for my 30-06 and Nosler brass for my .338 RUM. I just use it as it with the same results. It’s definitely not cheap nor is it easy to find right now. It is worth every extra penny if you value your time and small groups. The Lapua brass is outstanding. I weighed them all and they were incredibly close. I can’t remember how close but I did not separate them by weight.