Snowmelt, Shrinkage & Kryptonite

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All the over-the-top warnings about bears and proper camping precautions regarding food storage ceased being laughable when we reached the trailhead. The overwhelming stench of an unseen but clearly dead mammal enveloped a large area. When I say it smelled bad, I’m talking Rosie O’Donnell without a bath or shave during a four week bender bad! We just wanted outta there. Our packs weighed 75lbs and would be testing our resolve soon. Boots tied and sidearms strapped (in preparation of a Sasquatch encounter)…we began our ascent into the eastern Sierras. These shots were taken within short hike from the trailhead before the overloaded packs began taking their toll. This is best demonstrated by the smiles on the clueless adventurers before they hit the “climb” up.





The only good thing about a long hike uphill is the awareness that it is all downhill coming back. But altitude proved to be our Kryptonite as we passed the 9,000 and then 10,000’ mark. For those who have never backpacked at elevations this high, the air is lighter. By that I mean there is 40% less oxygen at these elevations. It’s like taking half a breath instead of a full one. Trust me, elevation will weaken Superman just as quickly as did us two 50-somethings with stupidly overloaded packs that turned us into weezing, gasping, coughing hikers that sat a bit less than they hiked. The only thing more ridiculous than this was our complete astonishment at our own poor showing. Mother Nature wasn’t just beating us, she’d kicked us in the walnuts and our struggle had just begun.

Have you ever stood up too fast and felt wobbly? Well we felt like that off and on the whole climb. Just light headed and weak. Now many of you already know (and the rest of you will learn) that the warranty on joints generally expires at age 50. A few purist enjoy an extended warranty but for most of us, things like ankles, knees, elbows, hips, shoulders, neck and back eventually become sources of pain. This trek was no exception and I made a fatal mistake.

At about the halfway mark we stopped and took a snack break…something I never do. My buddy Gary handed me some weird looking gel snack and a thick power gel that was like coffee syrup. Enjoyed the Starbucks taste but the texture was kinda like warm pudding. Well shortly after that I throw my pack on and bam! A hot knife rips through my shoulder blade…the worst pain you can imagine. Yep…gas bubble. If you’ve never had one, God loves you. You don’t wanna experience this. If you’ve ever felt this uniquely sharp stabbing pain, you can imagine how I felt being halfway up the mountain and unable to move even though the shadows were starting to get long and the available daylight was now a factor. After 30 minutes I was able to resume our march which was now conducted a bit more urgently. The higher we went, the more mud, running water and snow we moved though. Once above the 10,000’ mark we could feel the sun in a way that’s hard to describe. It’s almost like the sun’s rays are magnified and you can literally feel your skin burn as it’s happening. It’s drier here too and the hydration bladder had become noticeably lighter. We push on.

Finally, much later and feeling like an expectant mother in her tenths month, we arrived at a suitable spot to make camp. It was just inside the treeline, had fabulous views of the basin and a creek running nearby and small sections of shaded snow around.



This is Gary with his 1st morning trout stringer which were “stored” in the creek adjacent our camp.



Some more photos of the area:

Sunset looking east.

 
Just below us, an area we hiked through:





Just above us:



With light now an issue, we dump our packs and set up camp. We were in slow motion as we strung the line for our food, pitched our tents and rushed to prepare a hot Mountain House/Motrin meal before hitting the sleeping bags. I struggled to fall off…unfamiliar with the tent type camping. I’m more accustomed to hanging in a hammock and this was very different. I’m on the ground and felt much more vulnerable (that’s the only way I can describe it). The cold quickly set in and I questioned my Western Mountaineering MegaLite’s 30 degree rating. The bag was okay but I was not toasty. It took awhile to fall off and stranger ominous bear noises repeatedly awakened me throughout the night. I later learned these sounds were coming from Gary’s tent…the man has bear apnea or something. As the body, mind and soul slowly fade to black I am realizing there are no emails, no texts, no honey-dos…nothing to do but enjoy myself now. I smile and drift off.

Bear snack bag:



The sound of the nearby creek all night was wonderful. (Click on last image to play)



Part II forthcoming…
 
Looks like you guys had a great trip Bruce, I'll bet after that accent that you've figured out what is necessary and what isn't in your pack. One thing I can tell you after years of backpacking in bear country, a lot of noises in the night might sound like a bear but once you've had a bear less than a couple of yards from your nest you'll recognize that sound for the rest of your life.
Looking forward to the rest of the story.
 
Sweet trip report Bruce! I was thinking of you while stuck at work.

Every year when I run into PCT thru hikers I ask them their favorite section. It's always either Goat Rocks in Wa or the Sierra's. One of these days I'm gonna have to make down there and your pics just bumped it up the bucket list a few notches!
 
Am without PC (data migration to new computer) and it's too hard to post using my iPad, please stay tuned.
 
Part II

That night I had difficulty sleeping, imaginary bears circled my tent and I was uneasy, as I usually am the first couple of nights in the field. Chipmunks sound like Bigfoot in the mountains. I was also super-hydrated making for a busy bladder management routine. I was finally sound asleep when around 4am I was awakened to find the corner of my tent collapsing and a heavy weight gripping my leg. I screamed to Gary, “Arm yourself! Bear in camp!!!” as I felt around in the dark for my revolver. The bear dragged me a foot or more when I got the first round off, then a second. The .44 mag left me with a distinct ringing in my ears and the muzzle flash melted portions of the Tarptent before sizzling out. There was no movement that I could see and my hearing was gone. I found my flashlight, unzipped the mesh and stepped out of the tent, limping as I stood. There was no blood on my pants but as I walked around the tent, blood was everywhere. My light revealed the most horrible thing I ever saw…there, in the dirt, toes up and stone cold dead laid Gary, my partner. He was pranking me and I freaked out and shot him twice, once in the left chest and once in the face. I pushed the button my PLB knowing no rescue effort would change the fact that I had just killed my good friend. By the time Search & Rescue arrived I was catatonic, unable to speak. Thoughts whizzed around in my head like bees in a beehive and I could not do anything but shake. Then I woke up. It was the worst nightmare I had had in a long time. My heart was pounding and didn’t slow down for a long time. Hearing Gary snore in the next tent helped but that night was a rough one. Once the graylight of dawn emerged I was finally able to get some quality sleep and I was out like a light.

Gary got up shortly after I fell back asleep and instantly took to fishing. When I finally got up I was moving slower than a slated snail and took my time making coffee and getting cleaned up and dressed. Gary comes back to camp with the limit of trout and I share the nightmare story with him. Gary made the mental note not to screw with me in my sleep and we had a good laugh about his murder. My imagination in the wilderness is perhaps the wildest thing out there.

More to follow…
 
pics look awesome. 75 pounds, my god man I hope you had at least one thirty pack stuffed in there.
 
So after this trip, what would you take out of your pack to lighten it up for next time? it sounds like this trip was a good learning experience.

I've never had any issues with bears in CA....only with the fruits and nutcakes I've encountered up in the wilderness.
 
So after this trip, what would you take out of your pack to lighten it up for next time? it sounds like this trip was a good learning experience.

I've never had any issues with bears in CA....only with the fruits and nutcakes I've encountered up in the wilderness.

Oh I'll be getting to that. I was surprised by what i used and what I didn't.
 
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