Sight running out of left adjustment

[Bcoonce117]

Right handed shooter. Mathews v3 with 75lb mods. 77 or 78lbs.. would have to check because I forgot

I have a black gold 5 pin sight. I was sighting in some new arrows this weekend when I went camping with the family. I maxed out my sight left adjustment and still needed more. Not having service and in a bewilderment I turned the score that apparently adjusts the 3rd axis.(which also means the locking screws must have been loose as well. But that allowed me to bring sight back to the right and get sighted in on flat ground. The reason I figured it needed to be adjusted is because my cables were in my sight picture slightly…

My plan was to get on a steep incline and just shoot my 3rd axis in. I just had my 1st and 2nd checked and leveled at the shop.

Did I do something wrong?
It was tuned before i left but I’m going to double check the paper tune with these arrows later this week

 

[Bcoonce117]

Pretty sure it’s the black gold pro hunter hd if that matters

 

[OR Archer]

Sight bottomed out

So… Here’s my set up : Bow : PSE EVO EVL @ 75# and 30.5” draw Arrow : Sirius Apollo 250 @ 29.5 ctc 50 gr brass HIT insert w/ 125 grain head Rest : Hamskea Epsilon Sight : Black Gold Verdict w/ dovetail mount. Center shot is set at .79”, for reference 13/16” is .8125”. Basically...

www.rokslide.com

You’ll find answers in this thread on getting more windage on that sight

 

[Evol]

Help! I need more left windage on my Black Gold sight!

Rob from S&S Archery walks you through getting more left windage from your Black Gold sight. Try this before you purchase an XL Windage bar!

sandsarchery.com

As someone who has dealt with issues like this here's what I've seen.

I'd check your rest centershot and grip too. Sometimes shops will move your rest too much to try and fix a tear but it creates more problems down the road.

How's your peep height? Could you be putting pressure on your string causing it to shoot left? Sometime if the peep is too low I've had this happen.

Do you find it progressively more left as you move further? On at 20, a little left at 40, opens up more at 50, etc.

Could be spine too.

If it was me i'd:
Make sure arrows spine is good.
Make sure peep height is perfect and no added pressure on the string.
Make sure centershot is good.
Make sure I'm not torquing. Try gripping a little different to see if that helps.
Flip the football on the sight if everything else is good and use the extra adjustment.

 

[Bcoonce117]

Yeah I’m going to have to move the sight over to get that extra windage adjustment. It is not progressively worse. It stays off the same amount 20-60

 

[Ucsdryder]

Running out of windage is a sign your bow is out of tune.

 

[Bcoonce117]

Running out of windage is a sign your bow is out of tune.

I’m going to go back and shoot paper again to double check everything. Right now center shot is set right at 13/16”

 

[Ucsdryder]

I’m going to go back and shoot paper again to double check everything. Right now center shot is set right at 13/16”

I’d take it a step father. Paper tune then broadhead tune. I’d like to see where a field point and fixed blade head hit at 40 yards. Paper tune can lie. It’s a good starter.

 

[Marble]

I’m going to go back and shoot paper again to double check everything. Right now center shot is set right at 13/16”

Dont move the rest to get it to shoot. You need to tune the bow. It is possible to get a bow to shoot a bullethole and be out of tune.

This means yoke tuning or whatever your bow needs to actually be tuned. I'm only familiar with yoke tuning a Hoyt.

Then like mentioned above, paper tune, get zeroed, shoot a broadhead.

Moving the rest should be a final very very minor adjustment.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Bcoonce117]

Dont move the rest to get it to shoot. You need to tune the bow. It is possible to get a bow to shoot a bullethole and be out of tune.

This means yoke tuning or whatever your bow needs to actually be tuned. I'm only familiar with yoke tuning a Hoyt.

Then like mentioned above, paper tune, get zeroed, shoot a broadhead.

Moving the rest should be a final very very minor adjustment.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Copy that. I was just trying to state that I didn’t mess with rest. Yeah if something is off, I’ll end up having to buy what Mathews calls top hats. I believe it’s how you shim the cams

 

[Yobrevol]

Black gold sells a longer bracket for the windage. Commonly needed on the sights with micro adjust on some of the newer bows. It is worth checking that your arrow is center (not pointing left). You can easily do this by putting an arrow on the arrow rest and using a tape measure to distance from center of arrow to riser in two places (front and back).

 

[Bcoonce117]

Black gold sells a longer bracket for the windage. Commonly needed on the sights with micro adjust on some of the newer bows. It is worth checking that your arrow is center (not pointing left). You can easily do this by putting an arrow on the arrow rest and using a tape measure to distance from center of arrow to riser in two places (front and back).

That is exactly how I double check it. Wasn’t sure I’d it was right, but made sense to me

 

[stanginthe11s]

im a little confused so please correct me if im wrong.... your bow was good before you left and now with new arrows your off so you moved you sight? that would tell me to look at the arrows. then no matter how far you move the sight youre off the same amount? if youre off 2" at 20 yards you would be off 6" at 60 but you say youre off the same amount 20 or 60? that would be you not the bow. again if im misunderstanding this please let me know

 

[Bcoonce117]

im a little confused so please correct me if im wrong.... your bow was good before you left and now with new arrows your off so you moved you sight? that would tell me to look at the arrows. then no matter how far you move the sight youre off the same amount? if youre off 2" at 20 yards you would be off 6" at 60 but you say youre off the same amount 20 or 60? that would be you not the bow. again if im misunderstanding this please let me know

Ok so I got new arrows. Easton axis pro 260 spine with 50gr brass insert. 29” carbon to carbon 100gr point and a 10 gr collar. I have a 29” draw (like my arrow points to be at front of riser)
Had it paper tuned when I got the arrows. I never actually did it myself (I know I should because not everyone shoots the same) planning on checking it myself this weekend though.
When sighting in at 20, couldn’t get enough windage to hit center. On flat ground I ended up slightly adjusting the 3rd axis (I know this is probably wrong) and that allowed me to have enough windage. Actually more than enough. I’m going to verify paper tune then shoot 45° up and down to tune the 3rd axis.

Does this make sense?

 

[stanginthe11s]

ok i got you now, so it was only paper tuned and by someone else. so paper tuning only relates to the rest and how the arrow is coming off of it and no bearing on the sights so since you hit the same spot be it 20 or 60 i would say you dont need to redo the paper tune and you may just need to deal with the sight in which case what OR archer posted is correct. since you got what you needed from moving the 3rd axis why not continue? also, make sure your rest is relatively center on the shelf. if its way off to the left then you would start looking at shimming and yoke tuning.

 

[Bcoonce117]

Update. So when I checked my paper tune I was getting a nock left tear. Had to take bow to shop to get top hats put on to fix the tear. I’m saving for a bow press because I hate having to go to the shop for little things such as this