Sight extended or retracted?

[Elk97]

I have a Spott Hogg Hogg It (5 pin) sight and I'm confused about how to set it. I have it extended about half the way now and at full draw my peep allows me to see a little bit around the outside diameter of the sight. If I extend it out further the circle around the sight gets a little bigger but not much. What's the optimal sight picture, having the peep just outline the outside of the sight housing or does it matter?
Thanks, I've tried to find this info from Spott Hogg but don't see anything.
My groups don't seem to change much no matter where I have it set.

 

[BRTreedogs]

It's all personal preference.
Technically speaking the further out it is the more accurate it SHOULD be because you are drawing a straight light further.
But any imperfections in form will show more as well.
I get bad left and right if I don't have it lined up perfect.
So I keep moving mine in until it lines up perfect.

 

[Zac]

Your pin gaps will be smaller the closer it is to your eye. Target archers like it as far out as possible for increased accuracy. If your peep does not have adjustable aperatures I would set it so that you get just a sliver of light around your housing.

 

[Billy Goat]

Once your bow is tuned I'd play with torque tuning to help see where your sight housing should be. Then get a peep that works for where your sight housing is. That's best thing to do in my opinion. Do you have an MRT sight? Your Halo your sight housing will change with the lighting. MRT helps you adjust to that, but it takes some getting used to.

 

[stonewall]

 

[Brendan]

Depends on torque tuning, depends on peep / sight housing fit, depends on preferred pin gaps, and depends on personal preference.

I have bows I run them pretty far out, and others I've had to run them pretty close in or the bow was very torque-sensitive.

 

[Planopurist]

I have a Spott Hogg Hogg It (5 pin) sight and I'm confused about how to set it. I have it extended about half the way now and at full draw my peep allows me to see a little bit around the outside diameter of the sight. If I extend it out further the circle around the sight gets a little bigger but not much. What's the optimal sight picture, having the peep just outline the outside of the sight housing or does it matter?
Thanks, I've tried to find this info from Spott Hogg but don't see anything.
My groups don't seem to change much no matter where I have it set.

How far out are you shooting these groups? You may not see much change inside of 40, maybe 50, yards.


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[Blockcaver]

I prefer my sight as close to the riser as possible. It is less vulnerable to damage if it is inside the profile of the riser/limb bolts also doesn't hit the ground when you set the bow down on the limb bolts when you are hunting.

 

[Elk97]

Thanks, I thought it was just a visual thing related to the outside of the sight ring. I'll take a look at the video. I've been shooting 50-60-70 yds, furthest pin set at 60.

 

[Zac]

It's really nice to have your first three pins cover the vitals at 40 yards.

 

[dkime]

Depends on torque tuning, depends on peep / sight housing fit, depends on preferred pin gaps, and depends on personal preference.

I have bows I run them pretty far out, and others I've had to run them pretty close in or the bow was very torque-sensitive.

End of Story ^^^^, you paid extra money for that sight bar. Learn how to use it

 

[Elk97]

End of Story ^^^^, you paid extra money for that sight bar. Learn how to use it

It came with the bow and that was kind of the point of asking the question. I've gotten some great answers and suggestions and I've been experimenting with different positions. I'm kind of liking it in closer.

 

[dkime]

It came with the bow and that was kind of the point of asking the question. I've gotten some great answers and suggestions and I've been experimenting with different positions. I'm kind of liking it in closer.

I wasn’t talking about you specifically my man, That was a quote by GRIV if you’ve ever watched his YouTube videos


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[Brendan]

I would say anyone who has not experimented with Torque Tuning, you really should.

Most of my Hoyts have for whatever reason been good the way I normally set them up, same with my Primes. They almost never need an adjustment. But one year I was trying an XPedition, and I couldn't figure out why I was getting some BIG flyers at longer range. I'd put a couple centered around the bullseye at 60, and then I'd miss one 18" left. I can be bad sometimes, but not that bad.... Moved the sight bar in towards the riser, coupled with the rest in towards the riser, flyers gone... I could purposefully torque the bow, and still group around the bullseye when I was done. Same thing with my Triax, it likes the sight and rest closer to the riser, to the point that I swapped from a Hamskea back to a QAD for that bow to get the rest closer. I now at least test it with every bow I have.

It's one of those things though that will be different for every bow, and can differ for every person. Brace heights matter, grip matters, low / high wrist matters.

 

[LonerangerID]

Another option to consider would be getting an adjustable peep sight. Hamskea make a peep that you can adjust the size of your hole without the use of a press. It is a hooded peep so you have to make sure you are getting perfect alignment.

 

[doverpack12]

At a minimum I would set the distance where the sight picture through your peep allows good alignment. In bright full sun you want some space around the peep or to be right on the outside edge of the housing, in low light you want to barely be able to see the alignment ring on the inside edge of the housing. You can go to an adjustable aperture peep or just get a different size peep sight.
If you feel like taking it one step further or if you don't shoot well that way try torque tuning the bow, there is no defined direction you will need to go torque tuning, some bows want the rest closer or further and some like the sight in or out, just have to shoot and see.

 

[justin davis]

Yea

I would say anyone who has not experimented with Torque Tuning, you really should.

Most of my Hoyts have for whatever reason been good the way I normally set them up, same with my Primes. They almost never need an adjustment. But one year I was trying an XPedition, and I couldn't figure out why I was getting some BIG flyers at longer range. I'd put a couple centered around the bullseye at 60, and then I'd miss one 18" left. I can be bad sometimes, but not that bad.... Moved the sight bar in towards the riser, coupled with the rest in towards the riser, flyers gone... I could purposefully torque the bow, and still group around the bullseye when I was done. Same thing with my Triax, it likes the sight and rest closer to the riser, to the point that I swapped from a Hamskea back to a QAD for that bow to get the rest closer. I now at least test it with every bow I have.

It's one of those things though that will be different for every bow, and can differ for every person. Brace heights matter, grip matters, low / high wrist matters.

Yea that’s interesting. I’ve had same conclusion. With my Hoyt’s it always torque tuned with the sight bar further out. I recently have been messing around with a Bowtech SR 350. I torque tuned it and found that it likes the sight close to the riser and rest close to the riser. Kind of weird how it’s different than Hoyt’s. But guess it’s bow dependent.

 

[Brendan]

Yea

Yea that’s interesting. I’ve had same conclusion. With my Hoyt’s it always torque tuned with the sight bar further out. I recently have been messing around with a Bowtech SR 350. I torque tuned it and found that it likes the sight close to the riser and rest close to the riser. Kind of weird how it’s different than Hoyt’s. But guess it’s bow dependent.

Make sure to try the rest position too if your bow allows it - it has a much bigger impact than the sight bar. Bigger change in tune for a smaller movement, and I like to have flexibility of where the sight ends up for peep alignment, sight tape, etc.

 

[justin davis]

Make sure to try the rest position too if your bow allows it - it has a much bigger impact than the sight bar. Bigger change in tune for a smaller movement, and I like to have flexibility of where the sight ends up for peep alignment, sight tape, etc.

Yea it torque tuned with the rest close to the riser