sight bubble continues to be to the left

[MT257]

So I have a MBG sight. It is leveled and I have checked it multiple times to verify that it is infact level. My issue is that I seem to continually have the sight level bubble left at full draw. So I have to bring the top of my bow to the left to level it up. I am wondering if there is anyway to build up my grip that would help me have this so its level and I don't have to fight the top of the to the left at full draw? If there a way how do I build up the right or left side of my grip?

 

[wapitibob]

As long as the bar/pin stack is vertical when the bubble is centered it doesn’t matter how the bow is sitting. Rotate the assembly or add side weight to force the bow vertical.

 

[Billy Goat]

I know some guys who use a little bit of jb weld epoxy steel stick on their grip to build it up.

Might be arm position too, the closer you are to locking your elbow, the more you are rotating your hand.

You can use a back bar with weights also, but sometimes this is only a crutch to a different problem.

 

[Samdemarais]

So I have a MBG sight. It is leveled and I have checked it multiple times to verify that it is infact level. My issue is that I seem to continually have the sight level bubble left at full draw. So I have to bring the top of my bow to the left to level it up. I am wondering if there is anyway to build up my grip that would help me have this so its level and I don't have to fight the top of the to the left at full draw? If there a way how do I build up the right or left side of my grip?

It’s probably cause your bow is weight too heavy on the right. Just get a back bar with some weights. If you want to try to modify your grip check out sugru glue or YouTube sugru grip by George ryals to modify your grip

 

[MT257]

I know some guys who use a little bit of jb weld epoxy steel stick on their grip to build it up.

Might be arm position too, the closer you are to locking your elbow, the more you are rotating your hand.

You can use a back bar with weights also, but sometimes this is only a crutch to a different problem

I know some guys who use a little bit of jb weld epoxy steel stick on their grip to build it up.

Might be arm position too, the closer you are to locking your elbow, the more you are rotating your hand.

You can use a back bar with weights also, but sometimes this is only a crutch to a different problem.

Does it need to be a back bar? Could you achieve the same thing with like the Mathews static side bar mount and keep stabilizer up front just move it to left?

 

[Foggy Mountain]

The more grip on the bow the more chance of torqueing. Can you post a pic of yourself at full draw and your grip so we could see if that’s an issue? Otherwise it’s only a guess at best

 

[Foggy Mountain]

It’s probably cause your bow is weight too heavy on the right. Just get a back bar with some weights. If you want to try to modify your grip check out sugru glue or YouTube sugru grip by George ryals to modify your grip

George Ryals is good advice

 

[Billy Goat]

Does it need to be a back bar? Could you achieve the same thing with like the Mathews static side bar mount and keep stabilizer up front just move it to left?

I wouldn't want to.


I like the front stabilizer to be straight out. I frequently don't use a back bar/side bar and I don't ever have much trouble with a bow being level or very close when at full draw. I have tried the offset mounts that you can slide the stabilizer front to back, but didn't care for them either.



Is it your grip that is pushing the bow over?

 

[Billy Goat]

Did you level your sight to the string or the riser?

 

[MT257]

I don’t believe so. I just have a tennis grip over the vxr mathews grip

 

[MT257]

Did you level your sight to the string or the riser?

I’ve checked everything is level started on the jig and also leveled my bow up in the vise and everything looked level there too

 

[7-Pointers]

My understanding is that it is not essential that the riser and limbs are perfectly vertical when you shoot, as long as the bubble is centered (meaning the pins are perfectly vertical) you will hit behind the pin on a good shot at any distance. Therefor, part of setting up the bow for YOUR maximum accuracy and consistency, is rotating the sight so that the bubble is level with YOUR neutral grip on level surface (or whatever surface you want to be the default) to avoid torquing the bow to get the bubble level. Torque is very hard to reproducibly apply.

I don't recall the exact logic there, but the basic idea was that even at a 5 degree riser angle relative to vertical (enormous angle), the rest is only ~0.3" offset horizontally from the sight pins (which are usually ~4" above the rest). If you sighted in your bow at 60 yards, the arrow would hit about 1/10 of an inch left or right at 20 yards on a perfect shot. For most guys that's negligible relative to their average group size at 20 yards, and a lot better than forcing the bows riser to be perfectly vertical if its not naturally sitting there. Wouldn't want to sight in at 10 yards, unless you purposely sighted in for 0.33" left/right of where the pin was at that distance. Then you'd consistently hit 0.33" left/right of the pin at all distances, which would be fine with me for hunting.

Anybody have a link to others more knowledgable than me on this topic?

-Tim