Should this work?

Good points. For me it was trying what was readily available at the nearest shop which happened to be gold tips. Wouldn't know how to determine center shot but Google is always there. Thanks for your input.
 
Its 101 stuff. You either start weak and lose weight or length, or start stiff and add weight.

There's also the ability to build out the shelf if needed.

It sounds like you like the full length 500 flight, but want more point weight, which it won't support at full length....so cut it and add a little weight.
 
Its 101 stuff. You either start weak and lose weight or length, or start stiff and add weight.

There's also the ability to build out the shelf if needed.

It sounds like you like the full length 500 flight, but want more point weight, which it won't support at full length....so cut it and add a little weight.
Chuckle. See previous posts.
 
Are you bare shaft tuning or shooting factory fletched arrows in your tests?

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Are you bare shaft tuning or shooting factory fletched arrows in your tests?

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Up until now factory fletched. To do over I definitely would've started with a full length 500 bare shaft and begin trimming it down. Hindsight. Never thought it'd be this difficult to find a match. If not for durability I'd go back to aluminum but stump shooting gets expensive that way. Of course so does losing carbon.
 
You cut your own footers out of aluminum shafts to fit your carbons and you'll be surprised at how durable they are. Or you can buy the fancy premade ones lol

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Once you know what a 1/2" does for you vs point weight, decide what you want to have up front and go for it.

I personally would want to be in the 5-600 grain range and I'd not worry about foc at all.....because I'll have plenty and arrow flight trumps all.

Good post...I agree....except maybe cut 1/4" at a time.....
 
Man I’ll give some perspective. Take it for what it’s worth.

I’m shooting a Palmer classic 62”
52# @ 28”
I don’t think I quite pull 28”, I could be wrong.

I’m shooting two different arrows.

Axis Traditional 400s
Cut to 29 7/8”
250 grains up front- standard HIT, ethics aluminum footer, 200g points
4 x 5” trad vanes
7” arrow wrap
Weighing right around 600g

Black Eagle Rampage 350s
Full length 32”
300g up front - ethics insert/footer system, 250g points
4x4” trad vanes
7” arrow wrap

the black eagles probably fly a little bit better than the Axis. My point on is right at 30 yards
Tried to shoot my buddies day six 350s with 300 up front, fly like absolute ass

I think you need to start over with a bareshaft 500, full length, put the point weight you want on there, and start trimming down. If you get to where it’s shorter than you want and or it’s hitting the riser, go to the 400s. Don’t worry about hitting a specific length arrow. Decide what you want up front/total arrow weight and then make it fly perfect regardless of what you think the spine, arrow length, etc SHOULD be. The animal doesn’t care what brand, spine, length of arrow, broad head, it’s shot with
 
Man I’ll give some perspective. Take it for what it’s worth.

I’m shooting a Palmer classic 62”
52# @ 28”
I don’t think I quite pull 28”, I could be wrong.

I’m shooting two different arrows.

Axis Traditional 400s
Cut to 29 7/8”
250 grains up front- standard HIT, ethics aluminum footer, 200g points
4 x 5” trad vanes
7” arrow wrap
Weighing right around 600g

Black Eagle Rampage 350s
Full length 32”
300g up front - ethics insert/footer system, 250g points
4x4” trad vanes
7” arrow wrap

the black eagles probably fly a little bit better than the Axis. My point on is right at 30 yards
Tried to shoot my buddies day six 350s with 300 up front, fly like absolute ass

I think you need to start over with a bareshaft 500, full length, put the point weight you want on there, and start trimming down. If you get to where it’s shorter than you want and or it’s hitting the riser, go to the 400s. Don’t worry about hitting a specific length arrow. Decide what you want up front/total arrow weight and then make it fly perfect regardless of what you think the spine, arrow length, etc SHOULD be. The animal doesn’t care what brand, spine, length of arrow, broad head, it’s shot with
Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what I did this evening and ended up at a 30" with 225 gr up front. My fletched arrows are now 510 gr. Unfortunately it was raining when I got home this evening so I couldn't try them out but I feel like they should work. I bought a couple more 400s just in case.
 
Super helpful thread. If I don't have an arrow saw whats the best plan? I want to increase my TAW by getting more point weight but don't have a saw to work on my own. Do i trust the spine that of say black eagle?
 
Super helpful thread. If I don't have an arrow saw whats the best plan? I want to increase my TAW by getting more point weight but don't have a saw to work on my own. Do i trust the spine that of say black eagle?
If you don’t have a saw, your best bet is to get a field tip test kit from Ethics Archery or some of the other online retailers. Then, determine what you want your total arrow weight to be. Next you need to find a decent quality arrow that matches up with the GPI you want and more importantly the proper spine based on how much weight you are putting up front.

You should be able to get a bareshaft to fly pretty clean by switching just the point weight until you find the right match. If you really want to get it dialed in perfect, get an inset outsert system that is adjustable, like Ethics insert/outserts, or use the HIT system where you can use standard, or brass to add weight or take it away. You want t your bareshaft to hit as straight as possible from 20 yards or so in the target. Or you can shoot through paper at 6 feet or so and see what the arrow does when it goes through. You’re looking for a bullet hole.

long story short it would help a lot to find someone with arrow saw lol! But it can definitely be done.

let me know if you want to know more!
 
I shoot 60lbs at 30". I have my 250 cx heritages (which should be similar to 400's) cut at 30.5" from nock valley to end of inserts. I shoot 100 grains of weight plus 125 grain head plus insert weight. My arrows are over 600gr. But I am about 10lbs of draw heavier and an inch longer.

I feel you need at minimum 250 grains at your draw length to make those 500s work, probably more like 300 gr. Or move up another 10lb.

A longer arrow will have a weaker spine, that's why it flew better. Because you need to weaken the spine.

You need a guide to show you how to tune. You can bare fletch and compare to fletched, or you can shoot fletched broadheads and fletched field points. Where they group in relation to each other will tell you your next move. If you are just watching arrow flight your going to be at this for a while and have to start again when you shoot broadheads.

read this and quit making this harder than it should be.
 
Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what I did this evening and ended up at a 30" with 225 gr up front. My fletched arrows are now 510 gr. Unfortunately it was raining when I got home this evening so I couldn't try them out but I feel like they should work. I bought a couple more 400s just in case.
Did you get to try out the fletched arrows? How did they do?
 
Did you get to try out the fletched arrows? How did they do?
Yeah. They fly pretty good but not perfect. I'll blame myself for the lack of perfect flight because I do get laser beams from time to time. Surprisingly, to me anyway, the 400s and 500s fly the same. The 400s are a little heavier obviously but I can't see a bit of difference between them even out to 40 yds.
 
Yeah. They fly pretty good but not perfect. I'll blame myself for the lack of perfect flight because I do get laser beams from time to time. Surprisingly, to me anyway, the 400s and 500s fly the same. The 400s are a little heavier obviously but I can't see a bit of difference between them even out to 40 yds.
At the end of the day, as long as they are flying great, you’re golden my friend
 
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