Take your time and it will turn out great. The barrel dam is tricky (for me anyway). Take your time with it and make sure you have a good seal around the barrel shank. I will roll a thin noodle of clay, and place close to where i want the bedding to end. I make an impression with the barreled action as if it were to be fitted right now. Then pull the barreled action back off. You'll have a smooshed piece of clay. Square the clay using a straight edge and exacto blade where you want the bedding to end on the shank just in front of the recoil lug.Thank you, everyone. I really appreciate all the tips and encouragement. I will definitely be doing this myself.
It a Pure Precision Altitude stock, Skltn action and proof research barrel in 7PRC. I have never owned a hunting rifle this nice and I’m trying to make sure I do everything right.
That seems very straight forward. Thank you.Take your time and it will turn out great. The barrel dam is tricky (for me anyway). Take your time with it and make sure you have a good seal around the barrel shank. I will roll a thin noodle of clay, and place close to where i want the bedding to end. I make an impression with the barreled action as if it were to be fitted right now. Then pull the barreled action back off. You'll have a smooshed piece of clay. Square the clay using a straight edge and exacto blade where you want the bedding to end on the shank just in front of the recoil lug.
That’s really good. What caliber is that?Yep. It’s not that hard. I’m working on loads with the first rifle I bedded recently. I’m shooting groups like this three shot group:
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Very nice@TheBrk , you sound like your more than capable to tackle a bedding job.My go-to epoxy is Marine Tex gray. Get the 2 oz kit and it will handle any bedding job, mix the whole kit (2 oz) and toss what you don't use. Kiwi neutral shoe polish is my release agent.
Just popped this one out this evening and still have some clean-up to do, this stock took quite a bit of work putting a proof sendero in a 3b contour barrel channel, had to completely re-build the forearm rails and contours ......bedded barrel channel first and then action ......3 layers of 10 mil tape on the barrel for float. I ended up with a small void in the ejection window area but will not affect the function of the bedding.
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300 WM, 220 SMKThat’s really good. What caliber is that?
Those are typically pretty clean inlet, but the recoil lug recess is big to take oversize lugs. I'd put it together and shoot it first.Thank you, everyone. I really appreciate all the tips and encouragement. I will definitely be doing this myself.
It a Pure Precision Altitude stock, Skltn action and proof research barrel in 7PRC. I have never owned a hunting rifle this nice and I’m trying to make sure I do everything right.
I'm in the same camp and don't use a putty dam ... but, I do place painters tape in the barrel channel where I want to end the action bedding in front of the lug, that way the excess epoxy does't adhere to the barrel channel and can be milled out nicely. Another little trick is to .... once you pop the action out, take a piece of painters tape and run it from one side of the stock to the other through the channel to establish the limit line for excess removal. For me at least, this method gives me a nice clean transition from bedding to barrel channel.I don’t damn my barrel channel. I’ve tried it that way and have never been able to get a clean edge of cured epoxy up against the clay. I just let the excess flow and then grind it back with a dremel once dry.
Good trick with the painters tape so epoxy doesn’t adhere to the stock.I'm in the same camp and don't use a putty dam ... but, I do place painters tape in the barrel channel where I want to end the action bedding in front of the lug, that way the excess epoxy does't adhere to the barrel channel and can be milled out nicely. Another little trick is to .... once you pop the action out, take a piece of painters tape and run it from one side of the stock to the other through the channel to establish the limit line for excess removal. For me at least, this method gives me a nice clean transition from bedding to barrel channel.
This.if your not happy with it you can always Dremel it out and start over. Primary concern on your first try is to not permanently attaching your action to the stock.