Shoot2Hunt practice rifle

[mad_angler]

What exactly is a practice rifle?

I understand the concept. I want specifics: rifle, caliber, rings, scope. suppressor, modifications...

What does it cost to build one?

Does anyone want to sell one?

 

[Q_Sertorius]

It’s a Tikka in .223. After that, you add the other things it needs to match the ergonomics and handling of your “primary rifle.”

So, I have a Tikka T3X in 6.5 CM with a 20” barrel, wooden Rokstok, SWFA 6x gen2 scope, and AB Raptor 8 as my “ primary rifle.”

My training rifle is a Tikka T3 in .223 with a 16.1” barrel, waiting on a wooden Rokstok lite, SWFA 6x gen2 scope, and AB Raptor 10 as my training rifle.

Cost to build one is whatever you want to put into it. A new Tikka is about $500 on sale, SWFA scope is about $350. Add $150 to cut the barrel as needed. Obviously a wooden Rokstok is not necessary, but highly desirable to me. And a suppressor is a requirement if you actually attend S2H.

 

[mtnbound]

What exactly is a practice rifle?

I understand the concept. I want specifics: rifle, caliber, rings, scope. suppressor, modifications...

What does it cost to build one?

Does anyone want to sell one?

The rifle platform can be whatever you prefer; Tikkas are just hard to beat.
The best cartridge is a 223. Cheap practice ammo can be found, or you can reload for it, and it will last for a lifetime for most folks.

Rings, I prefer tall rings from Unknown Munitions.

Having matching scopes on your hunting and training makes the best sense, but you don't have to. Maven, Trijicon, or SWFA. Check out scope evals in RS for more information.

A suppressor is not needed, especially for a training rifle, as you should be wearing ear protection while practicing.

Replacing the factory stock with something better will improve your shooting. The Rokstock is very nice, again, it's best if stocks match, but you could swap your training stock to your hunting rifle before hunting season.

The cost will vary depending on the quality of components and if you buy everything new, but plan on spending $1200-$1500 for a rifle, optic, and rings for a lower-end trainer with new parts.

 

[Pistolpete28]

It’s a Tikka in .223. After that, you add the other things it needs to match the ergonomics and handling of your “primary rifle.”

So, I have a Tikka T3X in 6.5 CM with a 20” barrel, wooden Rokstok, SWFA 6x gen2 scope, and AB Raptor 8 as my “ primary rifle.”

My training rifle is a Tikka T3 in .223 with a 16.1” barrel, waiting on a wooden Rokstok lite, SWFA 6x gen2 scope, and AB Raptor 10 as my training rifle.

Cost to build one is whatever you want to put into it. A new Tikka is about $500 on sale, SWFA scope is about $350. Add $150 to cut the barrel as needed. Obviously a wooden Rokstok is not necessary, but highly desirable to me. And a suppressor is a requirement if you actually attend S2H.

Beautiful rifles! Where are you finding 500 dollar tikkas!?

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Beautiful rifles! Where are you finding 500 dollar tikkas!?

Thanks!

Those two were actually $550 and $500 secondhand. Of course, with the upgrades and accessories, the price goes up a lot. You just have to be patient and look at the right time of year to get the best deals (generally December through March).

Eurooptic has some blued ones on sale for pretty close to that.

 

[OverInfinite]

Primary rifle: 24" 7 Rem Mag R700 footprint in an XLR Chassis folder at 16.5lbs. Without suppressor
Primary rifle: 18" 6.5CM sig cross at 10lbs with suppressor

Practice rifles:
- 18" 22-250 fast twist in a savage action with mdt lss foldingchassis, 12lbs with suppressor
- 26" 223 savage build with manners stock, 18lbs without suppressor
-16" 6.5CM in Howa 1500 action with mdt lss chassis, swfa scope, 8lbs with suppressor
- Ruger precision rimfire 22lr

Practice rifles are in my opinion should be used to emphasize the thing you need work on. If I need to focus on settling a gun and manage recoil, I grab my 8lbs 6.5cm, if I need to work on positioning and acquisition speed, I grab my 18" 22-250. If I need bench rest trigger control and just getting into it again, 26" 223 comes out. And if I need to just have fun and play wind on a breezy day, the 22lr comes out. Each one of my guns is difficult and easy, and has a place. I am a big fan of picking a thing to work on and focus on that. Then add it to your list of tools and move on to the next thing.
None of my guys are wildly expensive, none of the cartridges really makes a difference, it's more about the combination to work on some things without worrying about something else.

 

[gtriple]

Beautiful rifles! Where are you finding 500 dollar tikkas!?

I’ve bought probably a dozen Tikkas over the last 2-3 years for $500-600. I watch several other forums and private party sale sites and they pop up

 

[Hot_tub_josh]

This is a great idea. I have an extra scope laying around and I think this thread has persuaded me to buy a rifle to put under it. A bolt action .223 sounds like a good idea.

 

[hibernation]

It’s a Tikka in .223. After that, you add the other things it needs to match the ergonomics and handling of your “primary rifle.”

So, I have a Tikka T3X in 6.5 CM with a 20” barrel, wooden Rokstok, SWFA 6x gen2 scope, and AB Raptor 8 as my “ primary rifle.”

My training rifle is a Tikka T3 in .223 with a 16.1” barrel, waiting on a wooden Rokstok lite, SWFA 6x gen2 scope, and AB Raptor 10 as my training rifle.

Cost to build one is whatever you want to put into it. A new Tikka is about $500 on sale, SWFA scope is about $350. Add $150 to cut the barrel as needed. Obviously a wooden Rokstok is not necessary, but highly desirable to me. And a suppressor is a requirement if you actually attend S2H.

How do both of those handle with the Raptor 8/10 on them? Not too front heavy?

 

[Q_Sertorius]

How do both of those handle with the Raptor 8/10 on them? Not too front heavy?

They handle beautifully for me. I am used to using hunting rifles with fairly heavy 26” barrels, so the amount of weight out front on these rifles works well for me. I would not want a heavier can than the AB Raptor 10 w/ 5” reflex (16.3 ounces), but it works well on the 16.1” barrel. It might not be so nice on a 20” barrel.

The balance point for them is right under the front scope ring (just at the front of the magazine well). I prefer the balance point to be more forward, especially for offhand. The balance point for my CZ 457 Royal (16.1” barrel) with Banish 22 is back closer to the trigger guard, right at the magazine, and I don’t like that at all.

The one with the Rokstok feels more stable offhand, but they each work for me.

The balance on the .223 definitely improved some with the walnut stock as opposed to the plastic stock.

When it comes to handling, as long as it isn’t too heavy to hold comfortably long enough for a shot, how the weight is distributed is the most important thing. A heavier muzzle needs a heavier butt.