Sheep rifle attributes?

I am more of a "hunting" rifle attribute guy (similar to what some have mentioned above).

Whether I am walking on flat ground, climbing mountains or sitting in a tree stand I want the same things in my rifle.

1. hunting accurate (1.5 moa)
2. Lightweight
3. handy (shorter barrel)
4. rugged (stainless, non-wood stock)
5. look good?

Hunting is so different for each guy and this will effect what tools you choose to use. If i was paying for guided hunts then I might want a rifle that could shoot further (increased weight? and increased accuracy) to up my chances. For me as a resident I want to get closer and if I don't connect I have the next hunt and the next year.
 
I would buy a Kimber HUNTER in 308 then have it rebored to a 338 Federal, I'd then purchase an extra magazine (no, 2 !), put a Leupold VX 3 3.5 x 10 x 40mm with Wide Duplex in lightweight Talleys then I'd do whatever might be needed to get it shooting 200 grains to my standard and practice, practice, practice (if I had time for too much thought on my hands pre-hunt I might have Leupold Custom Shop put a custom reticle in it as well, either or)
 
I am not looking for a rifle. I am looking for a list of attributes. Since you mention the M92 I have to ask how many others have you shot to compare? What is it about the M92 you like?

I listed 4 attributes... light, stainless, flat shooting, good out to 800 yards... sheesh.


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Buy a tikka and be done with it haha, there are other options out there that fit the same bill for sure.

1)Light enough, but not too light to be hard to shoot, alot of this is to do with the cartridge. around 7lbs/3.2kg all up is a nice weight to handle and shoot.

2)Stainless and synthetic, tough enough to bash around, or dont cry when you get a scratch on ya timber.

3)Cheap-more money for hunting

4)Accurate-field accuracy is alot different to bench-rest accuracy. anything under 1MOA is good enough in my books for hunting at 'normal' ranges(ie 0-350)

5)Compact-Barrels around 18-22" are best, choose a cartridge that will handle missing a few inches.

6)reliable- needs to FUNCTION everytime
seen professional hunters here with Tikkas that have been ABUSED for years in the field and function flawlessly, these are guys that shoot all day every day in real world hunting situations.

7) should add scope needs to lower profile and solid, with solid rings/bases. alot of issues in the field are to do with scopes/rings etc

I have only been on one 'sheep' hunt. but If I was choosing a rifle for that hunt it would be no different for pretty much any mountain hunt.

off topic- BC aint got bugger all to do with normal hunting situation, alot of people(no offense) confuse and lump 'mountain' hunting with 'long range hunting'. They are two separate things and you dont need to shoot a longs ways to be an effective mountain hunter.

I just guided a guy with 26 sheep and 23 'capra' under his belt and he had never taken a shot over 350, maybe he was doing it wrong I dunno.........Shoot long if you want, but dont make it about 'mountain' hunting or 'sheep' hunting.
 
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After a lot of back and forth, this is what I’ve decided on for this year.
-kimber Montana 308
-titanium bolt handle
-Talley lightweight low rings
-nightforce shv 3-10 w/ illuminated force Plex reticle

I’ve shot this at some 4” steel plates out to 500 and feel pretty confident with it, I haven’t had it on a scale yet but I’m guessing it’s right around 6.5lbs. If I get a chance, I’d like to get the barrel on this one cut back to 18-20”, I have another Montana with the barrel cut down but it’s already set up.
 

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I would think a reasonable person would not consider a 20 pound rifle a sheep rifle. For a thread starter, you are kind of rude to people who are replying. You got pissy with someone for mentioning a caliber instead of an attribute. You have me a smart alleck response for saying accuracy is important to me above everything else. It is time to chill out. Clearly you are a know-it-all with all the answers so why even post a question?

Accuracy is important...so yes, I'd rather haul a 20 pound rifle that hits what I aim than a 6 pound rifle that throws groups like Hellen Keller is behind the scope....but maybe I should have said I do not want a rifle that is less than 7 inches long...or is not hot pink...or one that has a scope...or one that has less than 3 barrels...or a rifle that goes "bang" instead of "click" when I pull the trigger with a live round. So there are my 5 bud.
 
If you are easily offended you don’t have to participate. You added nothing to the thread because I would consider hitting your target a prerequisite for any rifle.


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And I would consider a rifle not being 20 pounds a prerequisite.

Why even ask the question though...clearly you know EXACTLY what you want in a rifle....just to show us common folk how retarded we are for thinking a sheep rifle should be accurate, or a certain BC or caliber and how smart you are for knowing one should not be 20 pounds?

And no, I do not take for granted accuracy in a rifle...they vary widely in this respect.
 
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Updated

accurate
reliable
lightweight
stainless/synthetic
grizzly defense capable cartridge (3000 foot pounds and 180 grain minimum)
shoots bullets of high b.c. to 2800fps or higher

Mine is a 30-06 Forbes 24b with 2.5-8X leupold with B&C reticle. 6 pounds 13 oz scoped with a sling, last time at the range put 3, 150 grain accubonds at 3050fps into 2 1/4" at 420 yards. Shoots 180 grain TTSX bullets at 2800fps to point of aim at 100 when the 150's are zeroed at 200. I love it, shoots as well as my Tikka at 3/4 of a pound lighter.
 
I've hunted sheep with the same 7.5 pound .300WSM I've shot everything else up here with. I'd probably do it again as well.

The rifle shoots 180ABs into under 1MOA, and shoots much farther than I can. It's light enough to pack, but heavy enough to settle down when you're winded or in an odd position. No sheep alive needs a .300, but when you're out in big country, a fast .30 takes out some guesswork.

The big thing for me, I've shot it a LOT and know exactly what it does and doesn't do.
 
I agree 100% with what Hodgeman's post immediately above! I LOVE my 300 WSM. Mine is super light and it's amazing how little it kicks. It's nice having a 30 caliber for when you need it. I use mine for every big game animal I hunt...including game the size of pronghorn all the way up to moose. Sheep actually are pretty wimpy but it's always good anchoring them so they don't roll or fly off cliffs. I've shot a bunch of mtn goats with mine which I feel is amoung the toughest North American species to anchor in their tracks. All of my sheep and mtn goats have been shot inside 200 yards! Part of the challenge and fun is stalking in close!
 
Here are my requirements for a Mountain Rifle. I'm specifically not touching on scope or rings but I want to be able to mount a 12-24 oz scope and stay within parameter 1.

1) Fairly light weight. under 7lbs scoped for a short action caliber. under 8 pounds for a mag or LA caliber.
2) NA Sheep mostly any bullet will do, world sheep a 30 cal is more required such as marco polo. For any goat a high BC 30 cal or something with a high ft-lbs rating while staying within #1
3) Field accurate and repeatable. sub 1 moa. 1/2 moa is better and what I strive for with all my guns period. If it can't do sub moa with factory ammo it goes down the road.
4) I perfer mild recoiling while satisfying #1 and #2 and without a brake.
5) Unless its a benelli or a berreta and I use it to shoot quakers it must not be a specific camo pattern. just a multi color generic camo is fine but no kuiu verde or sitka etc.
6) Stainless or weather resistant coating.
7) I don't and won't reload so I must have a decent amount of low cost bullet options (sub 2.50 round)
EDIT
8) ITS GOT TO BE PURDY TOO.
 
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Sheep rifle 308 Kimber Has to be light changed trigger to Jard and got Kampfield Customs to cut ejection port and flute barrel changed bolt to ascent bolt knob shoots 1 inch 3 shot group at 100 yards when I am sober with Hornady Super Performance 150 SST
 

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Could you please add a little detail on what they did to the ejection port? Was this just for lightening?

Also looks like you did some trigger guard mods, any details on that?
 
I cut ejection port to cut weight and I drilled out the trigger guard to cut weight. I could go with a 2.5 x 7 scope and cut some more weight but I like a little extra magnification
 
Not the lightest but covers anything I need to do in Alaska.
 

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