Sharpening Knives in the Field

[Jesse Jaymes]

Kinda funny....that exact same Spyderco S110 I am bitching about....is 5th from the top on that test.

I do NOT micro bevel. Not really sure what it is or how to do it. Seen many others claim it's their last step.

Didn't really make sense to invest a ton of effort into maintaining the perfect same edge angle to hone and polish only to intentionally F it up with a few passes at a much more acute angle. But then....I am the guy bitching his knives aren't sharp.

I would REALLY like to pay a custom knife maker who is a world class sharpener his hour rate for a few hours of instruction. Would love to be able to free hand a blade into hair popping like many do. Being this deep into the Knife Game you'd expect me to have +15 Sharpening Skill level.

I did buy Josh's MKC Work Sharp mini system and watched his How To video. For many years I never worked to a burr. I have an S30V BugOut that I free handed according to his 7 minute video.

I did get it pretty sharp. I took off a LOT of metal. And looking at the actual edge....it's not terribly even. But it is sharp.

 

[intunegp]

Kinda funny....that exact same Spyderco S110 I am bitching about....is 5th from the top on that test.

I do NOT micro bevel. Not really sure what it is or how to do it. Seen many others claim it's their last step.

Didn't really make sense to invest a ton of effort into maintaining the perfect same edge angle to hone and polish only to intentionally F it up with a few passes at a much more acute angle. But then....I am the guy bitching his knives aren't sharp.

I would REALLY like to pay a custom knife maker who is a world class sharpener his hour rate for a few hours of instruction. Would love to be able to free hand a blade into hair popping like many do. Being this deep into the Knife Game you'd expect me to have +15 Sharpening Skill level.

I did buy Josh's MKC Work Sharp mini system and watched his How To video. For many years I never worked to a burr. I have an S30V BugOut that I free handed according to his 7 minute video.

I did get it pretty sharp. I took off a LOT of metal. And looking at the actual edge....it's not terribly even. But it is sharp.

YouTube University can get you there...freehand sharpening is mostly a game of muscle memory. Someone can show you how it's done but being able to repeat it yourself only comes with practice. Go to Goodwill or some other thrift store and pick up a few of the most decent looking kitchen knives available and use them to practice with. When you get one sharp, dull it on your stones and start over. Check out some YouTube videos to help with theory and technique...I like Neeves Knives and he can get knives as sharp as anyone.

 

[Marbles]

Kinda funny....that exact same Spyderco S110 I am bitching about....is 5th from the top on that test.

I do NOT micro bevel. Not really sure what it is or how to do it. Seen many others claim it's their last step.

Didn't really make sense to invest a ton of effort into maintaining the perfect same edge angle to hone and polish only to intentionally F it up with a few passes at a much more acute angle. But then....I am the guy bitching his knives aren't sharp.

I would REALLY like to pay a custom knife maker who is a world class sharpener his hour rate for a few hours of instruction. Would love to be able to free hand a blade into hair popping like many do. Being this deep into the Knife Game you'd expect me to have +15 Sharpening Skill level.

I did buy Josh's MKC Work Sharp mini system and watched his How To video. For many years I never worked to a burr. I have an S30V BugOut that I free handed according to his 7 minute video.

I did get it pretty sharp. I took off a LOT of metal. And looking at the actual edge....it's not terribly even. But it is sharp.

The micro bevel creates a more durable edge. The thin and polished shoulders reduce friction when cutting (think full flat vs scandi grinds). The change is only a few degrees, it also reduces the amount of metal one needs to remove on the shoulders and speeds things up for a general use knife.

As said above, free hand is about practice so you hold a consistent angle the entire time. Adding a miro bevele means if your angel varies by a degree or two, you can still get a sharp edge. Basically it can be a way to cover up mildly sloppy technique.

A belt sander will create a slight convex edge, which works like a micro bevel.

 

[Marbles]

Kinda funny....that exact same Spyderco S110 I am bitching about....is 5th from the top on that test.

I do NOT micro bevel. Not really sure what it is or how to do it. Seen many others claim it's their last step.

Didn't really make sense to invest a ton of effort into maintaining the perfect same edge angle to hone and polish only to intentionally F it up with a few passes at a much more acute angle. But then....I am the guy bitching his knives aren't sharp.

I would REALLY like to pay a custom knife maker who is a world class sharpener his hour rate for a few hours of instruction. Would love to be able to free hand a blade into hair popping like many do. Being this deep into the Knife Game you'd expect me to have +15 Sharpening Skill level.

I did buy Josh's MKC Work Sharp mini system and watched his How To video. For many years I never worked to a burr. I have an S30V BugOut that I free handed according to his 7 minute video.

I did get it pretty sharp. I took off a LOT of metal. And looking at the actual edge....it's not terribly even. But it is sharp.

Also, tart with forgiving and easy steel. Basic high carbon or 440c. Not needing as many strokes, you will be less likely to mess them up and see better results for practicing.

 

[roosiebull]

Eventually might snag the Worksharp field sharpener but I thought it might work to just take like 800 grit sandpaper instead to save some weight. Is this a dumb idea? Was also considering just bringing one of my diamond plates.


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The meat and fat drying on the blade and no convenient way to clean your blade is the biggest problem for me.

I enjoy sharpening, but I hate sharpening in the field, it’s a pain getting your sharpener fouled up by meat and fat, and better things to do

I decided long ago that for the weight of a functional sharpening system, I would rather bring extra knives and skip the BS

That concept has had me using replaceable blade knives the past many years, with a fixed blade or two as a backup, and even s90v will get too dull breaking down a whole bull

I think I have found the perfect solution though, just got the day six dragonfly and it seems to be the perfect solution

I have the WS guided field sharpener (actually 3 of them) but unless you have a way to clean and dry everything, it’s a pain in the ass to use in the field, and that’s my favorite option for field sharpening

I think rather than finding a light sharpening system, you should figure out a way to not need to sharpen. When meat hits the ground, I don’t want to be doing anything but cutting and packing.

 

[jlw0142]

The meat and fat drying on the blade and no convenient way to clean your blade is the biggest problem for me.

I enjoy sharpening, but I hate sharpening in the field, it’s a pain getting your sharpener fouled up by meat and fat, and better things to do

I decided long ago that for the weight of a functional sharpening system, I would rather bring extra knives and skip the BS

That concept has had me using replaceable blade knives the past many years, with a fixed blade or two as a backup, and even s90v will get too dull breaking down a whole bull

I think I have found the perfect solution though, just got the day six dragonfly and it seems to be the perfect solution

I have the WS guided field sharpener (actually 3 of them) but unless you have a way to clean and dry everything, it’s a pain in the ass to use in the field, and that’s my favorite option for field sharpening

I think rather than finding a light sharpening system, you should figure out a way to not need to sharpen. When meat hits the ground, I don’t want to be doing anything but cutting and packing.

I totally get this. I have a replaceable blade for this exact reason. I may end up doing 1 replaceable blade with 2 extra blades (because it’s so light) and 1 fixed blade in the kill kit and another on my pack strap. Not the lightest option, but diamond plates take weight too.


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[Jesse Jaymes]

@intunegp I watched some Neeves stuff. Thanks for the suggestion. Never stumbled onto him before. His stuff is way better than others I've watched. Already recently bought a big 600 DMT. I never saw those angle wedges. I'll get those and a stone clamp coming my way and give a few a shot. Great suggestion

 

[Beendare]

The meat and fat drying on the blade and no convenient way to clean your blade is the biggest problem for me.

I enjoy sharpening, but I hate sharpening in the field, it’s a pain getting your sharpener fouled up by meat and fat, and better things to do

Yeah, I get that....it's the reason for my search of a blade steel that can make it all the way through an elk.

I know too many guys that have been cut by the replaceable blade Havalons.

I can predict issues with flipping the bloody handle around on that Dragonfly.

I think for now I'm going to stick with a good fixed blade, a little foil cleaning packet and a diamond stone.

 

[jlw0142]

Yeah, I get that....it's the reason for my search of a blade steel that can make it all the way through an elk.

I know too many guys that have been cut by the replaceable blade Havalons.

I can predict issues with flipping the bloody handle around on that Dragonfly.

I think for now I'm going to stick with a good fixed blade, a little foil cleaning packet and a diamond stone.

I always have wet wipes when out in the field (for obvious reasons); I assume they would work as a pretty solid temporary cleaning material for a knife in the middle of a field dressing session


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[doc holiday13]

The meat and fat drying on the blade and no convenient way to clean your blade is the biggest problem for me.

I enjoy sharpening, but I hate sharpening in the field, it’s a pain getting your sharpener fouled up by meat and fat, and better things to do

Its pretty easy to get the meat and fat off a blade actually. literally just a handful of dirt and pinch the blade with it. Dirt wet or dry grabs the fat nicely and only takes a few seconds to get off the blade enough to wipe the blade on the cuff of your pants and then not icky up the knife holster.

I clean my hands the same way. I'll scrub my hands with dirt and finish with some creek water

 

[sndmn11]

Yeah, I get that....it's the reason for my search of a blade steel that can make it all the way through an elk.

I know too many guys that have been cut by the replaceable blade Havalons.

I can predict issues with flipping the bloody handle around on that Dragonfly.

I think for now I'm going to stick with a good fixed blade, a little foil cleaning packet and a diamond stone.

I saw you archery talk post too...

Koa has this new magnacut guy

Classic Hunter knife | Knives of Alaska

Introducing the Classic Hunter Made with MagnaCut Steel The Classic Hunter is an expertly crafted 8 ½” drop-point hunting knife, built for hunters who demand both strength and precision. With its rugged design and cutting-edge steel, this full-tang knife is designed for performance, delivering...

knivesofalaska.com

@feanor might have a few blanks left too, that's who I get my non-mule blades from.

 

[sndmn11]

Here is what I take into the field.
S90v @feanor skinning shape w/cork
Pma11 Spyderco mule with cork
Havalon hydra
Piranta blade cork handle thing
Gossmam sharpening steel/wedge



I was responsible for the rear quarters, back straps, tenderloins on this last elk, so I used the Spyderco most of the time, had a designated dirty blade on the piranta side of the havalonwith bone saw on the barracuta side, and a gut hook on the piranta handle for hide cuts. I usually loop the steel around my left wrist, but replaced the cord on it last year and it was too small.

 

[intunegp]

For the past few years I have been carrying the DMT Dia-Sharp Cards...set comes with a 325, a 600, and a 1200. I take the 600 in my kill kit for touch ups if needed. The credit card size can feel a bit small with larger knives but you can get the job done. I've also carried a Spyderco fine grit ceramic pocket stone in the past, the pouch makes a decent strop and the ceramics cut fast for their grit.

If your entire game plan is field sharpening/touching up, you should be getting out the stone when cutting performance starts to diminish, not when your knife feels like a butter knife. I'd rather makes 10 strokes per side a few times throughout the process than stop for 15 minutes in the middle of butchering to try and reestablish a good edge.

Keeping a sharp knife sharp is way easier than making a dull knife sharp.

 

[sndmn11]

I saw you archery talk post too...

Koa has this new magnacut guy

Classic Hunter knife | Knives of Alaska

Introducing the Classic Hunter Made with MagnaCut Steel The Classic Hunter is an expertly crafted 8 ½” drop-point hunting knife, built for hunters who demand both strength and precision. With its rugged design and cutting-edge steel, this full-tang knife is designed for performance, delivering...

knivesofalaska.com

@feanor might have a few blanks left too, that's who I get my non-mule blades from.

one more from KOA

Alpha Wolf | Knives of Alaska

The Hunter’s Sharp Edge The Alpha Wolf is a premium hunting knife, meticulously designed for exceptional performance in the field. Its full-tang drop-point blade, made from high-quality D2 tool steel or S30V stainless steel (Rockwell Hardness: 59-61), tackles demanding cutting tasks with ease...

knivesofalaska.com