sewing machine

[Ray]

Ray, so there isn't a small tension adj screw on the bobbin holder "thingy"?
Hunt'nFish

On my husky I have not been able to see one. Its a home grade machine and the bobbins are plastic. There is no screw visible down in the bobbin holder system. The owner's manual contains no reference to adjusting bobbin tension on this model other than to say its pre set. However, there is bound to be something hidden in there that could be adjusted. I just have to ask the right person at the shop.

 

[Ironman8]

Thanks for replying guys. The problem is, I have no idea what I'm looking for, what I need, or where to look to find those answers lol

What I am inferring though is that maybe an old school tank of a sewing machine may not be the best route to go due to maintenance issues or possibly versatility with what you can do with it. So, if I were to go with a more modern machine (which I like the old school look so much better...but oh well) what do I need to look for as far as features, functions, parts, ect. go? Sorry if I'm being a little dense on this subject

 

[Hunt'nFish]

Ironman, I think the older machines have LESS maintenance issues, they're built like tanks. Parts availability is obviously an issue, but just buy one with all the parts there and there isn't an issue. The only reason I got into sewing was because of my old Remington is so danged easy to use it wasn't intimidating.
IMO, pick up a simple machine first and grow from there.
If it leads to a second more complex machine down the road, oh well.
But honestly, an old, straight stitch, machine will do 95% of what you need it to.
Hunt'nFish

 

[colonel00]

I cannot disagree with Hunt'nFish as I have not used an older, beefy machine. However, as a beginner I can tell you what I liked about using a new, electronic machine.

-It comes with a zipper foot and a walking foot that make it very easy to sew zippers and light materials like ripstop and silnylon
-The needle always stops down. This is great when you need to raise the foot to make an adjustment and you don't forget where the zipper is
-A simple button to do a reverse stitch to lock a stitch. I don't know how you do this on older machines
-With the push of a button I can change the needle placement so it spaces differently.
-With a couple presses I can do a zigzag with whatever width and stitch length I want. *this isn't crucial but nice
-3 different speed ranges. You still use the pedal to control the speed to a point but the ranges let you really control an accidental "pedal to the metal"
-Automatic button holes. *Again, not a critical feature but nice for the way I make the channel for stuff sack cords

Those are just a few off the top of my head. As Hunt'nFish mentions, though, just get something that works and you will soon learn what you like or don't like about it.

 

[dotman]

Ironman, I think the older machines have LESS maintenance issues, they're built like tanks. Parts availability is obviously an issue, but just buy one with all the parts there and there isn't an issue. The only reason I got into sewing was because of my old Remington is so danged easy to use it wasn't intimidating.
IMO, pick up a simple machine first and grow from there.
If it leads to a second more complex machine down the road, oh well. L
But honestly, an old, straight stitch, machine will do 95% of what you need it to.
Hunt'nFish

Plus with the older machines there are tons of refe materials, you tube links and manuals for free that will guide you thru any issue and to the great availability of replacement parts for cheap and they are easy to work on.

Here is how I look at it, an old truck with hardly any electronics is super easy to diagnosis and work on, these new trucks that have every part having some electrical item and being 90% plastic need special tools to work on and t times cannot be self diagnosed. Same goes with sewing machines IMO, if you can work on an old truck you can work on an old machine pretty easily.

 

[Colby Jack]

My idea would be to lower the needle, lift the foot, spin the work piece 180 degrees, lower the foot, and do a couple stitches back. Otherwise, you can omit reverse by cutting the threads long, use a needle to push the bobbin thread up to the surface, and tie a simple square knot to secure the ends. Or you can run the stitch to the very end of the piece, and use a product such as Fray Check at the end. All are viable solutions to no reverse.

 

[colonel00]

Fair enough. I am just speaking from a beginner's point of view where having a simple button makes it very easy to take multiple steps and condense them into a fluid action. I can start a stitch, reverse, sew along, reverse and then finish fluidly using the reverse button.

 

[Hunt'nFish]

Brad, That's a pretty cool feature that yours always stops w/ the needle down, quite handy.
I just have to go slow and use the handwheel to position needle in the down position.
As for reverse, my old tank has a lever to reverse direction for locking the stitch.

I would like to change out the motor on mine to slow it up. Go to a higher HP motor but w/ lower rpm's. A lot of time's it just doesn't have the umph to punch through 3 layers of nylon webbing and I have to work the handwheel to help it punch through. It's not biggy, it gets the job done but it would be nice if it had more power.

This is why I've been looking at the HD industrial Juki's.... more power to work on thicker material. I'd also like a longer stroke to sew through waist belts and padding. Neither of my std machines can do that. I've even given thought to a machine capable of sewing leather. There was a time when I made several pistol holsters and I did all that sewing by drilling the holes and hand stitching a saddle stitch using two big needles. And considering I just bought a couple horses, I've been thinking about leather work again.

 

[tuffcity]

Here's my rig:

Hooked into a 1/2 hp motor there isn't much it won't sew through. Tend to break needles though if I'm not paying attention on heavy items.

RC

 

[Ironman8]

Just wanted to pop in here and say thanks again for all the guidance and responses, guys. I'm still digesting all the info and will be making a decision pretty soon.

 

[colonel00]

Stop thinking and get sewing! I was bored on Saturday and made this up.

 

[Ironman8]

Well here I am on a Friday night...buying a sewing maching. I'm so lame. Ha!

Anyway, I just picked up a Singer Heavy Duty 4423 from Amazon for $120 shipped. I didn't do a ton of research, but what I did look up gave me confidence in the purchase. Looks like it will be good for silnylon all the way up through my 500d Cordura. Thanks again for the help gents. Now to mimic colonel00 on those sweet pouches! Good work brother!

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Well here I am on a Friday night...buying a sewing maching. I'm so lame. Ha!

Anyway, I just picked up a Singer Heavy Duty 4423 from Amazon for $120 shipped. I didn't do a ton of research, but what I did look up gave me confidence in the purchase. Looks like it will be good for silnylon all the way up through my 500d Cordura. Thanks again for the help gents. Now to mimic colonel00 on those sweet pouches! Good work brother!

A much better use of a Friday than most other endeavors

 

[mtswampfox]

Well here I am on a Friday night...buying a sewing maching. I'm so lame. Ha!

Anyway, I just picked up a Singer Heavy Duty 4423 from Amazon for $120 shipped. I didn't do a ton of research, but what I did look up gave me confidence in the purchase. Looks like it will be good for silnylon all the way up through my 500d Cordura. Thanks again for the help gents. Now to mimic colonel00 on those sweet pouches! Good work brother!

sounds like a winner. especially the price . keep in touch with a review??

 

[Stid2677]

Taking advantage of the snowy day to make a couple pullouts to keep stuff organized. Found some orange silnylon to use as my kill kit bag, going to try to color code them so I don't have to dig through them all or grab the wrong one. The walking foot really made sewing the slippery material easier.

 

[colonel00]

That looks great! How much orange silnylon do you have? Any interest in swapping for a different color? Maybe I should start a thread where people can offer up and swap materials. I would like different colors but I don't need a yard of each

 

[Stid2677]

That looks great! How much orange silnylon do you have? Any interest in swapping for a different color? Maybe I should start a thread where people can offer up and swap materials. I would like different colors but I don't need a yard of each

I bought a yard and they gave me a deal on the remnant, let me know the size you have in mind and I will see if I have enough, I also have some extra green parachute material.

 

[colonel00]

Sounds good. I am getting ready to head out on an ice fishing trip but I will shoot you a PM with some dimensions. What size did you make yours and what all do you have in it?

I will probably start up another thread but here is what I have:

Regular 30D(?) ripstop nylon in white
DWR coated ripstop in gray
Silnylon in greenish-gray and coyote

 

[Stid2677]

What size did you make yours and what all do you have in it?

My kill kit bag is 12.5 x 7 inches,, what I carry in it varies depending on the hunt. For a mountain hunt,,,

Havlon and 3 or 4 blades.
one pair cut resistant gloves
10 feet or so flagging tape.
2 to 3 pairs nitrate gloves
1 trash compactor bag
2 Kifaru meat baggies
flexible measuring tape
cutco folding knife
light weight utility knife handle with roofing blade
1 or 3 blue automotive shop towels
1 55 liter OR durable dry bag

 

[Stid2677]

Time to get crafty... 10 yards of awesome...