Securing/Riging Plastic Barrels

[Kal-Elk]

How are you all securing/rigging your plastic barrels for bear baiting?

I've been researching the web, and while I see a lot of people talking about using plastic barrels, I haven't seen a lot of photos of how people have been setting them up. Most of what i've seen talks about using metal drums. (e.g.: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/bait-barrel-design-thoughts-advice.90096)

I like the idea of the trickler/small hole strategy, but most of what I've seen for plastic barrels has been bolting them to trees with a relatively large access hole for the bear to get his head/paws in.

I'm going to be baiting for the first time in Southcentral AK this upcoming season. I was looking at using 15 gallon plastic barrels to start, since I'll be huffing baits in on foot without comitting too much before it becomes evident bears are actually showing up. What kinda set up will 1) Keep the plastic barrel from getting beat up/torn apart too easily; but also 2) Keep the plastic barrel where it needs to be?

Plan is to use dogfood and popcorn, (with call baits hung separately).

 

[Coveyleader]

You can anchor with a chain or cable. Six feet of chain, anchored to the top of the barrel through the holes, or I drill a hole through that hard plastic ring on top of the barrel and attach with a quick link. There are two fill holes on the top of the barrel that normally have caps. I normally pull one out and this is the opening the bears will use to get the contents out. The plastic is really heavy there and they won't chew through it. If you anticipate a ton of bears, I would leave the cap in, and drill a 1-1.5 inch hole right through the center of the cap so its even harder for them to get it out. The cap when removed leaves about a 2-25 inch hole and contents like dog food will come out of a 2-2.5 inch hole quickly once they figure it out. I've found with plastic barrels if you drill a hole in the side of the barrel, they will focus in on it and really tear it up and many times bore through it. You can eliminate it some by elevating the barrel just a few inches off the ground but swings free to eliminate that to some degree. I simply load the barrel up and leave it on the ground.

 

[go4thegusto]

If you bore holes and loop a cable or chain thru it they will rip it right off. Incredible power. We drill a hole in a strong area on barrel and use a 1/2 inch eyelet bolt with the largest fender washers or plates you can find. Then cable or chain to tree. Never had one run off.

 

[Nick Muche]

Just throw the bait on the ground.

 

[Kal-Elk]

If you bore holes and loop a cable or chain thru it they will rip it right off. Incredible power. We drill a hole in a strong area on barrel and use a 1/2 inch eyelet bolt with the largest fender washers or plates you can find. Then cable or chain to tree. Never had one run off.

This is exactly what I was concerned about, thank you!

 

[Kal-Elk]

Just throw the bait on the ground.

Would you have issues with birds/small animals eating the baits? Or otherwise bait not lasting long enough?

 

[Kal-Elk]

You can eliminate it some by elevating the barrel just a few inches off the ground but swings free to eliminate that to some degree. I simply load the barrel up and leave it on the ground.

How are you securing the barrels left on the ground?

 

[Coveyleader]

How are you securing the barrels left on the ground?

Secure the barrel to the tree, I let them roll it all around. I don’t “fix/attach” it to the tree so it’s stationary. I don’t have to deal with brown bears, but a black bear is not going to tear the barrel off if you secure correctly.


My partner uses a big cable and just wraps it around the tree a few times to keep the barrel suspended but not fixed.


Obviously bears are strong, where they get rough is when the barrel runs out off food, and when the barrel is fixed in place. In my experience little bears are the problem children. They love to chew.

 

[Kal-Elk]

Secure the barrel to the tree, I let them roll it all around. I don’t “fix/attach” it to the tree so it’s stationary.

So just a single attachement point to a chain to the tree, with some slack?

 

[Coveyleader]

So just a single attachement point to a chain to the tree, with some slack?

PM me and I’ll send some pictures. Just don’t post them to the world.

 

[Janesy]

I drill a single hole in the top, place a nut and a fender washer threaded to the top of the closed eye hook. Slide that assembly through the hole, then from inside the barrel, fender washer, then double nut.
After that, it's a quick link and then a metal swivel, quick link, then chain. The swivel is the key to this whole thing. Not only does it keep the chain from binding up, it also stops the eye hook from spinning or being pulled out.

Also, put your fill hole on the top of the barrel, not the sides. The bears also never try to remove anything from the top of the barrel, and the screw heads holding the cover plate on don't get full of dirt as they never touch the ground.

 

[Janesy]

So just a single attachement point to a chain to the tree, with some slack?

Stand that barrel up close to the tree, run the chain relatively tight to the tree. Then when the barrel hits the ground the chain will be the correct length to let it swing side to side.
We try to use groups of trees so the barrel can only swing 180 degrees.

 

[Nick Muche]

Would you have issues with birds/small animals eating the baits? Or otherwise bait not lasting long enough?

Birds bring in bears. No barrel is more natural. No barrel is less work/trips, when you are hauling in by foot. Lastly, whether you have a barrel or not, once bears start hitting it, you'll be adding more bait at the same rate no matter which way you decide. Barrels add an extra, unnecessary step. The best is when they get ripped off the tree and smashed (which will happen), then you get to haul out a bunch of useless steel.