Sealing Truck Camper from Dust

treillw

WKR
Joined
Mar 31, 2017
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MT
The back of the truck turns into a dust bowl after going down a few dirt roads. Any suggestions on how to seal it up?

Thanks!
 

muddydogs

WKR
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May 3, 2017
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Utah
Ya good luck with that. Taping any holes in the bed will held as will installing a tailgate dust kit which helps seal the gaps around the tailgate but your still going to get some dust in the topper. You can reduce the amount of dust but your not going to stop it completely.
 

MikeStrong

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
143
Realtruck.com sells a tailgate seal that is easy to install and will help cut down on a lot of the buildup. You're not going to get rid of all of it as previously mentioned, but that seal can make a huge difference.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Joined
May 16, 2012
Messages
3,430
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Fargo ND
I actually considered marketing this product. I did it to several trucks and it works fantastic. The trick is to pressurize the bed......
-Most all trucks vent the cab out the back of the cab body between box and cab. Put your dash air on high and not on recirculate.
-If you look in between cab and box and feel with hand (can be tight so from below sometimes required) you will see where cab air exhausts. On Chevy and Ford there is a louvered panel on each side approx 3X8 inches.
-The trick is to capture that exhaust and route in to bed. On the Ford there are rubber knock-outs in front of bed that nearly align with these vents. On my Chevy I drilled a 3 inch hole with a hole saw. (If that concerns you find a rubber hole grommet ahead of time and drill that size)
- Now you need to seal between cab and bed. I cut high density foam in a thick picture frame style piece. With some soapy water, a friend, and some long sticks and rods you work it in to position so air is sealed and routes properly. ( my invention I never did was an inflatable bladder. I am thinking a tire rube from a wheelbarrow or something similar would work., needs to seal but flex and stay put)

This works so well you can't believe it. I can't believe a truck manufacturer or aftermarket house has not figured this out. A long weekend of road hunting pheasants and waterfowl here in ND on dry gravel roads would coat all my gear 1/4 deep with dust. After conversion it was perfectly clean.

I also did this on a pull type enclosed trailer with a DC roof fan blowing in. same concept. Positive pressure in the body.
Many ways and materials to skin this cat I am sure...have fun!
 

Matt W.

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Puerto Rico
Going with this concept, is there a way to utilize an onboard air system in a similar manner, or perhaps an enhanced manner?
 

Mt Al

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Dec 16, 2017
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Montana
You can limit it with sealing, but dust is like rust, it never sleeps. I went by the Expedition Overland dude's shop quite a while ago and saw a drool-worthy positive pressure system that they use in their trailers. Aussies deal with insane levels of dust on their red dirt roads and devised a higher-pressure fan that pushes air into the trailer (filtering before and after) and keeps it dust free. The trailer was also sealed like crazy, so go figure. Looked it up on line and the price was way too high for me, but looked like something that wouldn't be too hard to make if you can bend some sheet metal. I just deal with it and keep everything in industrial garbage bags that's in the back of the truck, sweep it out here and there.

Edited: saw go4thegusto's post: way easier/better than what I posted above
 

maverick

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Apr 5, 2012
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193
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Oregon
I leave the window open on the front of the canopy. The one next to the cab. This seems to create some positive pressure in the canopy and keeps most of the dust out. If I close it my canopy is full of dust in a mile. Ive also left a side window vented which works but not quite as good.
 

Randle

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Dec 30, 2012
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Nope
I have thought about a small fan in the canopy , if it is powered by ignition voltage it would only run while the truck is on so accidentally leaving it on and running the battery down shouldn't happen.
 

MikeStrong

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
143
I leave the window open on the front of the canopy. The one next to the cab. This seems to create some positive pressure in the canopy and keeps most of the dust out. If I close it my canopy is full of dust in a mile. Ive also left a side window vented which works but not quite as good.

My truck doesn't have a sliding rear window, but my shell has the front window. As such, I don't have any kind of a seal between the windows since there wouldn't be any point. Will your idea of opening the front window on the shell work in my case do you think?
 

maverick

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Yes, I should have said the front window. The one between the cab and the canopy. That is the only one I leave open.
 

maverick

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Joined
Apr 5, 2012
Messages
193
Location
Oregon
Dust doesn't roll up between the cab and bed and go right in?
Im sure some does but it's a minimal amount. Look at how much dust settles there compared to your back canopy window. I should say that I also tried to seal around my tailgate. I think that is where the majority of the dust comes in.
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2018
Messages
1,004
Buy an suv. Problem solved. Or live with dust in the bed of a truck. It’s a truck after all.
 

Whitty

FNG
Joined
Dec 13, 2017
Messages
67
Location
SC
My $.02 is to seal the gap between the bed and tailgate and then get a big carwash sponge. Stuff chunks of the sponge in all of the holes/openings...ones like around tie down loops, bed holes, and under the bedrail. Helps a ton and cheap.
 

Raghornkiller

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Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
150
Location
Indiana
I have sealed a camper van and a diy truck topper successfully and I used great stuff ,rubber seals, and silicone.the silicone works great for small cracks and it peels off easily later if you want it gone
 
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
60
I actually considered marketing this product. I did it to several trucks and it works fantastic. The trick is to pressurize the bed......
-Most all trucks vent the cab out the back of the cab body between box and cab. Put your dash air on high and not on recirculate.
-If you look in between cab and box and feel with hand (can be tight so from below sometimes required) you will see where cab air exhausts. On Chevy and Ford there is a louvered panel on each side approx 3X8 inches.
-The trick is to capture that exhaust and route in to bed. On the Ford there are rubber knock-outs in front of bed that nearly align with these vents. On my Chevy I drilled a 3 inch hole with a hole saw. (If that concerns you find a rubber hole grommet ahead of time and drill that size)
- Now you need to seal between cab and bed. I cut high density foam in a thick picture frame style piece. With some soapy water, a friend, and some long sticks and rods you work it in to position so air is sealed and routes properly. ( my invention I never did was an inflatable bladder. I am thinking a tire rube from a wheelbarrow or something similar would work., needs to seal but flex and stay put)

This works so well you can't believe it. I can't believe a truck manufacturer or aftermarket house has not figured this out. A long weekend of road hunting pheasants and waterfowl here in ND on dry gravel roads would coat all my gear 1/4 deep with dust. After conversion it was perfectly clean.

I also did this on a pull type enclosed trailer with a DC roof fan blowing in. same concept. Positive pressure in the body.
Many ways and materials to skin this cat I am sure...have fun!
This is an excellent idea. Going to try something this weekend. Thanks for the tip.
 
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