Scope mounting to maintain zero

[ResearchinStuff]

Yes , with Burris Signiture XTR rings.
They will not self centre if assembled dry.
Form has mentioned that he has broken multiple sets, and I could see that happening if they were degreased and tightened dry.

Also a mate was very disappointed in his Spur mount not returning to zero, until I told him about wet assembly, that fixed his problem.

i have a couple sets of xtr signature rings in service, all assembled dry. they've worked well, including through drop testing.

 

[Castle Rock]

They come lightly lubed, did you degrease them?

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Yes, with acetone

 

[goalie]

Yes, with acetone

Getting ready for the SWFA 3-9x HD to arrive. I don't think I'll run out of acetone......

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Until your wife finds it. Mine just stole 2/3 of the can

 

[TechsanHunter]

I’ve mounted 5 scopes in my life- so certainly a beginner and confused. I recently bought a few rifles tikka/Sako in .243 & .223. Two have Nightforce scopes and rings. NF rings are torqued to 25lbs. The others I will use UM tikka dovetail rings (4 screw) and will mount Maven rs1.2 scopes.

For the tikka/um rings/maven set up, what is the best torque for the ring caps? I’ve researched the forum and find answers ranging from 18lbs (first instructions on this thread from @Formidilosus ) to 32 lbs for thick-walled scopes. Other threads note 25-30 lbs. Maven says 18, from UM I’ve found a few different values. Appreciate any clarity/guidance y’all are willing to give a beginner.

 

[Snowhunter11]

I do 25in lbs on my maven and Swfa with UM rings. No issues after a year or two and ~1000 rounds dialing.

 

[TOLeary]

I’ve mounted 5 scopes in my life- so certainly a beginner and confused. I recently bought a few rifles tikka/Sako in .243 & .223. Two have Nightforce scopes and rings. NF rings are torqued to 25lbs. The others I will use UM tikka dovetail rings (4 screw) and will mount Maven rs1.2 scopes.

For the tikka/um rings/maven set up, what is the best torque for the ring caps? I’ve researched the forum and find answers ranging from 18lbs (first instructions on this thread from @Formidilosus ) to 32 lbs for thick-walled scopes. Other threads note 25-30 lbs. Maven says 18, from UM I’ve found a few different values. Appreciate any clarity/guidance y’all are willing to give a beginner.

I just went digging for this recently as well. Forms answer below on base screws - different than um specs on their website. And has said 28-32inlb for ring caps which is basically right at um specs of 30inlb

50in-lbs is not enough to hold the base in place. Degrease everything, thread lock, push forward on the ring against the pin, torque to 60 or 65in-lbs on the base screws. Go shoot.

 

[kravi]

I'm glad this thread is still alive! So in the next couple of weeks I'm going to be mounting my Swaro 3-10 to a Tikka 308. I know the Swaros are light and fragile, and there is nothing I can do about that. But I'd at least like to minimize slippage (since I can't minimize the fragility).

I've bought Sportsmatch T048C Tikka 2 Piece Medium rings for the scope (I'm trying to keep this a super light mountain rifle) as it was those or UM rings (which are more than twice the weight), and they come recommended here. Any recommendations on torque specs, both the bases to the Tikka action (no pic rail - direct mount) and for the rings themselves? While 18 inch pounds is the recommendation, I see that during his optic testing, Form often has to torque the rings up to 22+ inch pounds. But I'm also nervous that this might damage the Swaro.

Cheers!

 

[kravi]

@Formidilosus Any chance you can help a brother out? Regarding my question above, and noticing that you fairly regularly seem to get optic slippage with rings at 18 inch pounds, is it safe to torque down a Swaro 3-10 to something like 22 inch pounds? Or is the whole mechanism so delicate better not to, and risk slippage?

Cheers!

 

[1000yards]

@Formidilosus Any chance you can help a brother out? Regarding my question above, and noticing that you fairly regularly seem to get optic slippage with rings at 18 inch pounds, is it safe to torque down a Swaro 3-10 to something like 22 inch pounds? Or is the whole mechanism so delicate better not to, and risk slippage?

Cheers!

Obviously not Form and not trying to answer for him. But I'm the guy who sent in the Z3 that was damaged in the drop test. When I got the scope back from repair, I mounted it to an unsuppressed BRNO ZKK in 7x57 with Talley QD rings. These are the notorious vertical split rings. I torqued the rail lever as tight as my fingers could push, and the rings to 22 in lbs with pink finger nail polish all around.

The scope tracked fine with that set up, and so far it has held zero through two zero checks after the initial sight in. Obviously this system should not be considered robust, it goes from my safe to a padded case on top of the backseat of my truck to a shooting house, and back again in that order. I have no intentions of doing anything more rigorous, I have other rifles for that.

This is just my experience, and I'm new to this. My recommendation is to give it a try, track your zero, and don't waste your time if it fails to meet your needs -life is too short for that.

 

[kravi]

Obviously not Form and not trying to answer for him. But I'm the guy who sent in the Z3 that was damaged in the drop test. When I got the scope back from repair, I mounted it to an unsuppressed BRNO ZKK in 7x57 with Talley QD rings. These are the notorious vertical split rings. I torqued the rail lever as tight as my fingers could push, and the rings to 22 in lbs with pink finger nail polish all around.

The scope tracked fine with that set up, and so far it has held zero through two zero checks after the initial sight in. Obviously this system should not be considered robust, it goes from my safe to a padded case on top of the backseat of my truck to a shooting house, and back again in that order. I have no intentions of doing anything more rigorous, I have other rifles for that.

This is just my experience, and I'm new to this. My recommendation is to give it a try, track your zero, and don't waste your time if it fails to meet your needs -life is too short for that.

Thanks 1k! Agreed on the not considering it robust, but most scopes aren't, it seems. My "other" hunting rifle is a 7 Rem Mag with a Vortex LHT 3-15, and that apparently ain't much better, though it has survived and kept zero for a while now. I'm just trying to "minimize" risk, not eliminate it at this point. And damn does the Swaro Z3 (I have the BRH reticle) have nice glass!

Cheers!

 

[Formidilosus]

I'm glad this thread is still alive! So in the next couple of weeks I'm going to be mounting my Swaro 3-10 to a Tikka 308. I know the Swaros are light and fragile, and there is nothing I can do about that. But I'd at least like to minimize slippage (since I can't minimize the fragility).

I've bought Sportsmatch T048C Tikka 2 Piece Medium rings for the scope (I'm trying to keep this a super light mountain rifle) as it was those or UM rings (which are more than twice the weight), and they come recommended here. Any recommendations on torque specs, both the bases to the Tikka action (no pic rail - direct mount) and for the rings themselves? While 18 inch pounds is the recommendation, I see that during his optic testing, Form often has to torque the rings up to 22+ inch pounds. But I'm also nervous that this might damage the Swaro.

Cheers!

A Swaro generally won’t work above 18in-lbs. sometimes not at 18.


The standard for Sportsmatch is tight in the base screws (I do 60’ish in-lbs), and 20-25in-lbs on ring screws.

 

[kravi]

A Swaro generally won’t work above 18in-lbs. sometimes not at 18.


The standard for Sportsmatch is tight in the base screws (I do 60’ish in-lbs), and 20-25in-lbs on ring screws.

So just to be clear... Tighten the base at 60ish, but leave the rings at 18 (barely)?

Cheers!

 

[Formidilosus]

So just to be clear... Tighten the base at 60ish

I would tighten by hand and go to you feel it stop.

, but leave the rings at 18 (barely)?

Cheers!

Yes sir.

 

[MCGHeel]

[mention]Formidilosus [/mention]

I feel like I searched this thread fairly well but have not searched others just yet. I didn’t see a direct answer to my following question. I have several sets of area 419 hunt and match rings. Do you find these to be robust enough to hold zero like other recommended rings or should I dump them for UM NF sports match? I can attest these things will not allow slippage of the scope tube even at torque values in the 18-20 in lb range because of the raw aluminum mating surface of the rings. As long as screws don’t loosen I don’t think the scope can go anywhere. Just my thoughts. Do you have any?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Formidilosus]

[mention]Formidilosus [/mention]

I feel like I searched this thread fairly well but have not searched others just yet. I didn’t see a direct answer to my following question. I have several sets of area 419 hunt and match rings. Do you find these to be robust enough to hold zero like other recommended rings or should I dump them for UM NF sports match? I can attest these things will not allow slippage of the scope tube even at torque values in the 18-20 in lb range because of the raw aluminum mating surface of the rings. As long as screws don’t loosen I don’t think the scope can go anywhere. Just my thoughts. Do you have any?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have not used the Area 419 hunt rings enough to say. Historically pic rings that use the two small base screws do not do well with zero retention and impacts.

 

[Stud Duck]

I have not used the Area 419 hunt rings enough to say. Historically pic rings that use the two small base screws do not do well with zero retention and impacts.

Did not know...thanks.