Scope leveling rabbit hole - help please.

WVELK

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 2, 2020
The internet is a valuable tool (at times). These forums are valuable (at times). For ages thought I knew how to level a scope when first mounting it to the rifle. I am about to mount a NF 4x32 to a new rifle without a pic rail system.

What do you think it a good way to level the scope for long range hunting? I am happy to buy some new toys such as something from Wheelers, Defensive Edge or others.
 
Think this asked last week, hit the search button for a deeper dive. But I find a plum bob against a white wall gets me close enough. Due have a wheeler setup to aid with initial setup.
 
I’ve done it multiple ways, recently saw the vortex video of them leveling it with a flashlight and plumb bob. Pretty slick and minimal special tools needed.
 
Me, I place the scope in rings, place a straight edge between the scope and rail, then rotate the straight edge. This makes the scope body and action top parallel, and gets the reticle very close to being inline with the bore.

Then, I use a horizontal line (set with a carpenter's level) and a flashlight to get the reticle level and set my scope mounted level to be true to the reticle.

Obviously this doesn't work if no flat spot on bottom of the scope or if that spot is not over a flat spot on the action.
 
The internet is a valuable tool (at times). These forums are valuable (at times). For ages thought I knew how to level a scope when first mounting it to the rifle. I am about to mount a NF 4x32 to a new rifle without a pic rail system.

What do you think it a good way to level the scope for long range hunting? I am happy to buy some new toys such as something from Wheelers, Defensive Edge or others.

As has been covered on many of the recent threads, reticle being perfectly plumb above bore is much less important than scope not being canted to gravity at the time of shot.

Applied - this means if you dont have a scope level to indicate you reticle is plumb to gravity, worrying about your scope being perfectly plumb with bore is a waste of time. Lots of ways to get scope level mounted correctly without buying fancy gismos. I tend to just bring a 4' level when hanging targets and setup a target I can use to make sure reticle is aligned with while getting bubble level set.
 
Level scope and then put a bubble level on it. That’s it.

I use no gadget.

Set up rifle and get it bagged well, then hang a string or draw a level line on a target.

You can also use the trick of shining a light to project the reticle on the wall in a dark room if you are in an apartment.

Another way I level is to put a scope rail on a flat board. Then putting rings on the scope and leveling the scope and installing the bubble level ring. Once the bubble level is on, I can move it around rifles and it’s set. This is how I level my scopes and for friends rather than take time at the range.

I use blue loctite between the bubble level and scope to add stickiness. I will also put a dab of fingernail polish or paint pen mark on the level and scope as an index to know.

IMG_9851.jpeg
 
chart stolen from @wind gypsy I think

Sharing on yet another scope leveling thread so that future readers may see it everywhere they look. Maybe then we will see less threads about it

  • Levelling the reticle to earth while shooting is highly important to long range shooting
  • But the reticle does NOT ALSO need to be perfectly vertical/plumb with the gun bore itself. Eyeballing that when you mount the scope will produce virtually zero error down range


IMG_7023.jpeg
 
Being able to secure the rifle in one spot and make incremental adjustments is key for good results. The Hollands scope mounting fixture works well, but a gun vise works too.

I bought a small Starrett machinists level to help in tighter spots (confirming rifle is level throughout the process). Then align the reticle to a plumb bob. Never level off the turret.
 
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