Saturn Kaboat/bear mountain outfitters/chugiak mountain review

[Yukon Cornelius]

8 years ago I purchased my first Saturn Alaskan model Kaboat. This 15’ boat has worked amazing for me and though I’d love a bigger boat, I doubt this one will ever be replaced. I’ve loaded it with more than 1k lbs of gear and supplies and have traveled 75 miles one way in it. No matter what size motor I’ve run, it’s super fuel efficient and since I live in the Alaskan bush, fuel matters. I did not run the 15’ this year, instead opting for the 18’ bear mountain set up. The extra 3’ of length does have some major advantages but it also has some major disadvantages under power.

Before I get into the nuts and bolts, please forgive me for not having more photos. I’ve lost two phones and have deleted many pics over the past few years. So, you will need to use your imagination. All my speeds and distances are verified using gps devices.

The quality of these boats has gone down over the years and my 15’ is better quality than the 18’ I own. I’ve looked at the chugiak/bear mountain options and they are nice. Just not as nice as the Alaskan model that is no longer made. Alaska raft connection in anchorage had a hand in developing the Alaskan model and withdrew sponsorship over QC issues during the covid timeframe.

I love this boat enough that I had planned on using it in the Yukon river this fall to access the Nowitna River drainage above Ruby Alaska. However, I ended up moving to the Kuskokwim River in unit 19D and used the 18’ there.
My runs have been in the Dilligham,AK area(Nushagak River, wood river, snake lake/river and tributaries, Lake Aleknigek and second lake, lake Louise, lake Susitna, lake tyone and the tyone river, plus the Kuskokwim, takotna, and Nixon rivers as well as creeks off those rivers.

I’ve had the boat out in 3’ swells. Sub-freezing temps, and even hot weather.

All with the 15’ Different motor sizes:
2.5hp Suzuki was able to get 6mph with two guys and a day pack. Didn’t track the fuel consumption but burned less than a gallon in two hours of run time on a lake.
7.5hp 2 stroke mercury (1983). Top speed was 17mph with one guy and day pack. Typical speed
Was 8 mph with two guys and camp. I’ve gone as slow as 6mph with this set up on lake Louise and this was when I decided to upgrade to larger motor.
20hp tohatsu. The transom can handle 100lbs and the newer tohatsu weighs 96lbs. No brainer IMO. I was able to hit 22mph on a lake at just a little more than 1/2 throttle. I didn’t want to go WOT with the motor. Found out the hull speed on the boat is about 24mph so the 20 is probably max size you’d need. I burned 3 gallons of gas on a 60 mile trip. Plenty of weight in the boat and I sold the 20 to purchase a 9.9 mercury.

9.9 mercury was able to get 18mph with two guys. Fuel consumption was same as 20. Roughly 20mpg. This is with two guys and camp.

9.8 tohatsu I’ve hit 20mph but the boat really likes 15mph IMO. Same fuel consumption.

Longtails I’ve played with and haven’t found one I like yet. Ran a 5hp, 7hp, 9hp longtails. The 9hp was the most positive but didn’t like not having a grab bar. I’ll play around with the long tails again with the 18’ boat.

With the longtails I transported the boat in another boat and used the longtails in our grassy hunting area. Was able to get between 5-10mph with each longtail and that 9hp is what I want to try again. Weight is an issue with the longtails however.

The 18’ was new to me and initial trial runs I was getting 14-17mph with 7 people in the boat with my 9.8 tohatsu. Sounds great, until I tell you about the flex. Boat wanted to fold in half at the higher speeds. This was concerning to me, because I want to go 13-20mph. That’s the happy place for these boats IMO. Ended up shipping both boats to my new location and gave the 18’ more trials.

I blow my floor up to 10-12psi. The harder the floor the more stable it is. This matters under power. I also bought a rowing platform to get me up a little higher. The included oars just suck, but I still keep one set with each boat. I use 7’ oars for a push stick as well as stand up paddling. The platform was a game changer. Helped stabilize the 18’ so not as flexible. With my 9.8 I was getting 12-16mph going upriver (depending on my load) and I hit 22mph coming down river. I burned 3 gallons of gas in 55 miles. So almost as fuel efficient as the 15’ but close enough.

The extra carrying space is nice on the 18’ but I won’t run a bigger motor. The 15hp tohatsu I bought this season will go on the 15’ and the 9.8 will stay on the 18’ and I’ll be experimenting with longtail on the 18’ as well.

These boats are pretty amazing for what’s they are. I’ve taken it up 4” creeks with motor tilted. Not fast but faster than paddling. I’ve considered jet drive but I think the fuel drop off isn’t worth it. I’m not running gravel rivers. And if it’s shallow, I can paddle/push/drag.

2 man is crowded. 1 man is perfect. I’ve ran three guys before. Stack tall. 18 gallon Rubbermaid totes work well. Boats are super sturdy and light enough to manhandle one man.

I carry some tearaide as my field fix. I’ve liked two holes into the 15’ and the bottom was repairs with the tear aide. 3 years later still working. The top tear I’m going to repair this winter. The gash came from the boat transportation. Hit a rivet when we dropped it off. Gash sucks but holds air. Just gotta add some every few days.

 

[Yukon Cornelius]

Here are some more.

 

[Steve O]

Fascinating!

 

[Mt Al]

Thanks for sharing, Yukon C. That 18' looks to dwarf the 15'. Great information and it looks like you use these about 99% more than most mere mortals!

I made a rowing frame for mine and tied the transom to it, top and bottom, with rod ends and other crazyness just to give confidence that it would be stable with a 2 stroke 20hp. Doesn't need that much HP, the motor was just was a good deal at the time. Way more stable with the frame but I'm far from optimized with the proper tilt, etc..

Fun boats for sure and awesome deal for the money

 

[Yukon Cornelius]

Thanks for sharing, Yukon C. That 18' looks to dwarf the 15'. Great information and it looks like you use these about 99% more than most mere mortals!

I made a rowing frame for mine and tied the transom to it, top and bottom, with rod ends and other crazyness just to give confidence that it would be stable with a 2 stroke 20hp. Doesn't need that much HP, the motor was just was a good deal at the time. Way more stable with the frame but I'm far from optimized with the proper tilt, etc..

Fun boats for sure and awesome deal for the money

What is your floor blown up to? I run my short shaft without the pin if possible straight up and down. I want it to pop up if it hits anything. The only problem I run into with mine is at higher rpm’s, I’ll take water over transom and it’s just annoying as the trip prolongs itself.

The 18’ does have more room, but if I had to take only one, it would be the 15’. The original Saturn Alaskan is just that much better. It’s also the perfect size. I never felt the flex that I feel with the 18’, but that 18’ is a beast and if speed wasn’t a
Factor that 18’ with a 9.9 is pretty nice. I also went 9-10psi on the floor. The owner of BMO recommended 6, and the 15’ floor is twice as thick as the 18’ floor.

 

[Mt Al]

What is your floor blown up to?

I actually built a solid floor with a 6" foam noodle "keel" vs. the inflatable floor. Bought side stringers and other parts from an inflatable boat parts company. Coated the wood with many layers of spar varnish and sealer and put gription tape in most places. Just wanted a little more depth inside and thought it might work out.

Next time I set it up will be with the inflatable floor.

Amazing how thin the 18' floor is compared to the 15!

Really appreciate the information you're sharing, helps a lot with optimizing everything and I'll check the floor psi next time.

When I put the inflatable floor in, will need to adjust all my straps that hold down the rowing frame, cooler seats, gas tanks, etc.. I bought one of those V shaped ones for the front and a normal one for the back, two coolers for seats and holding the trolling motor batteries. It's a great setup and looking forward to using it way more next year.

 

[Yukon Cornelius]

I actually built a solid floor with a 6" foam noodle "keel" vs. the inflatable floor. Bought side stringers and other parts from an inflatable boat parts company. Coated the wood with many layers of spar varnish and sealer and put gription tape in most places. Just wanted a little more depth inside and thought it might work out.

Next time I set it up will be with the inflatable floor.

Amazing how thin the 18' floor is compared to the 15!

Really appreciate the information you're sharing, helps a lot with optimizing everything and I'll check the floor psi next time.

When I put the inflatable floor in, will need to adjust all my straps that hold down the rowing frame, cooler seats, gas tanks, etc.. I bought one of those V shaped ones for the front and a normal one for the back, two coolers for seats and holding the trolling motor batteries. It's a great setup and looking forward to using it way more next year.

Where did you get that frame at? Mine sits on top which I enjoy. I’m not taking it in any class rapids. Heck, I didn’t even paddle mine this year with it. I couldn’t find the u-bolts to hold the oar lock in place. I also need to tinker with the seat. Buddy of mine bought the wrong QD pattern and I ended up using zip ties to secure the seat to the base. Kind of a pain in the ass.

 

[Mt Al]

Where did you get that frame at? Mine sits on top which I enjoy. I’m not taking it in any class rapids. Heck, I didn’t even paddle mine this year with it. I couldn’t find the u-bolts to hold the oar lock in place. I also need to tinker with the seat. Buddy of mine bought the wrong QD pattern and I ended up using zip ties to secure the seat to the base. Kind of a pain in the ass.

I made it with Kee Klamps and chain link fence top rail from home depot, I think 1 5/8" diameter. https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/pipe-fittings/kee-klamp. The allen-head bolts on the kee klamps are course threaded and honestly don't hold too well, so I drilled divots into the rails for the bolts to squish into. Holds way better now.

There's a post somewhere else on rokslide where I have a pic of the frame from the side, will try to find it. I drilled through the rowing frame right where the kaboat capped bolts for the oar locks (cheap as they are) go. Put these bolts through the frame to hold it on, the used normal NRS-type straps to the big D rings to hold it down in other places.

I got some NRS oar locks that fit on the frame and use the cheap boatstogo oars just to maneuver around docks or near shore, no river trips for me so far. If that was the case, and hopefully will be, I'll get much better oars and oar locks before heading into any even minor rapids.

I use straps between the rowing frame rails to hold down the cooler seats, mount a fish finder and rod holders, plus a really cluged together electric trolling motor mount to the side of the boat since the transom is so narrow and already has the outboard on it.

It's hard to describe, but the rowing frame is tied into the transom with threaded rod ends (affixed to the transom) and "U" kee klamp ends and clevis pins. All so it's relatively easy to take on and off.

 

[Moscowmoose]

I made it with Kee Klamps and chain link fence top rail from home depot, I think 1 5/8" diameter. https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/pipe-fittings/kee-klamp. The allen-head bolts on the kee klamps are course threaded and honestly don't hold too well, so I drilled divots into the rails for the bolts to squish into. Holds way better now.

There's a post somewhere else on rokslide where I have a pic of the frame from the side, will try to find it. I drilled through the rowing frame right where the kaboat capped bolts for the oar locks (cheap as they are) go. Put these bolts through the frame to hold it on, the used normal NRS-type straps to the big D rings to hold it down in other places.

I got some NRS oar locks that fit on the frame and use the cheap boatstogo oars just to maneuver around docks or near shore, no river trips for me so far. If that was the case, and hopefully will be, I'll get much better oars and oar locks before heading into any even minor rapids.

I use straps between the rowing frame rails to hold down the cooler seats, mount a fish finder and rod holders, plus a really cluged together electric trolling motor mount to the side of the boat since the transom is so narrow and already has the outboard on it.

It's hard to describe, but the rowing frame is tied into the transom with threaded rod ends (affixed to the transom) and "U" kee klamp ends and clevis pins. All so it's relatively easy to take on and off.

Im looking at going this route for an upcoming road trip. Wondering if this is the boat to rule them all. Do you have any insight as to the performance drifting down rivers. Would the boat with the frame on it handle class iii rapids?

 

[Mt Al]

Moscowmoose,
I really don't know how it works in those circumstances. I do plan on doing some relatively calm river floats and building up.

Hope you get some answers from people with more relevant experience.

 

[Moscowmoose]

Thanks for the reply. I just picked one up with a rowing frame that came stock when they were first trialing the concept. I’m loaded up, heading up to AK from Vancouver island. I’m going to start with the cowichan river and see if she stays upright.