Yeah, that’s why I’m on this thread because I’m not happy with them haha2" groups don't inspire confidence unless you're absolutely certain shots will be close.
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Yeah, that’s why I’m on this thread because I’m not happy with them haha2" groups don't inspire confidence unless you're absolutely certain shots will be close.
Also, after talking to my dad he said he hasn’t put more than 10 rounds in the rifle since owning it because of one shot kills so I bet fouling isnt the culprit. I think this rifle wasn’t made for the elk rounds I’m using due to the rifle twist. I’ll make sure everything is tight before I shoot again maybe even bring my ammo I have for deer to see if that shoots better. It’s starting to look more and more like the Sako is going to be the best optionYeah, that’s why I’m on this thread because I’m not happy with them haha
Think one month is enough time to shoot it before my hunt? I’m a good shot normally so this 7mag has thrown me for a loopCheck all your hardware for proper torque and start over. If it's not gonna cut it just take the Sako.
I don’t have a torque screwdriver. Is that necessary to make this correct? Or just hand tighten it is fineCheck the front-angled action screw. It needs to be very tight on the 77 to make it accurate. Also, check the scope mounts to make sure they are tight. Sometimes, poor accuracy in a 77 is due to the magazine box being too tight and binding the action. You can fix this by slightly shaving the box with a file. A Google search will provide more info and how-to examples. I have had a bunch of Ruger 77s and have never seen one inaccurate after some tinkering.
A torque wrench is nice, but it can be done without it. Just ensure you have the correct size screwdriver or even a bit that goes in a socket. Just get that angle screw really tight.I don’t have a torque screwdriver. Is that necessary to make this correct? Or just hand tighten it is fine
Gotcha, I’ll go ahead and try and hand tighten. It seems like it’s pretty hard to overtighten the screw by hand with a screwdriver. I might ask the gunsmith at the shooting range if he has a torque wrench too and if he could tighten to spec before I shootA torque wrench is nice, but it can be done without it. Just ensure you have the correct size screwdriver or even a bit that goes in a socket. Just get that angle screw really tight.
So I’m preparing for an elk hunt in late October and am shooting my dad’s old ruger m77 mk2 7mm rem mag. The thing has been giving me fits. I am trying 2 different ammos. Barnes vor-tx 160 gr and federal nosler partitions 160 gr. Today I went and shot and couldn’t get any good shots besides 2 shots from the Barnes that were kissing. I was also using a lead sled so I know it’s not human error. Group 1 and 3 were the partitions and groups 2,4 and shot 5 were the Barnes vor-tx. So a couple things:
1. After 6 shots the barrel was to hot to hold for a long time
2. This rifle barrel has never been cleaned, but when I looked at it (unloaded of course) I couldn’t see any dirt or crap in there. I did run the snake through it and it was kinda dirty but not yearly significant dirt.
What is going on with this rifle? Am I just not letting it cool long enough? I waited about 20 minutes between groups 2 and 3. I’m starting to get frustrated. I think the partitions are definitely not liked by my gun as the first shot was so off. My other option is my dad’s sako A7 300 wsm but I won’t be able to get that gun till exactly a month before the hunt due to it being in Louisiana and me in Colorado. Any advice? Should cleaning the bore really help that much?
I
I mispoke, I meant Federal Premium 165gr Bout-tail soft point, not wincherster.I know this is an older post but I'm new to the game. I was gifted the M77 Mark II 7mm mag about 20 years ago and never really got into the gun until this year, I bought an elk tag and a guide. I have been a muzzleloader guy. The thing has always kicked like muel and the trigger pull was at 8-10lbs, it sucked. I hired a gunsmith to thread the barrel and instal a muzzle break (reduced recoil by about 40%) along with changing the trigger pull to a 4.5lb pull and a limb saver,, a cheek riser (which is only a sleeve with a pad, this has help my accuracy. I have shot a lot of different rounds through it recently, hoping to find that perfect match and become more comfortable with the gun. I thought the Remington Core-Lokt 150 grain was good but yesterday I shot some Winchester 165 grain soft-tail yesterday and it was way better grouping. My MOA at 100yds was about 1.5inches prone. I think I'm becoming a more consistent shot, given I have shot maybe over 100 rounds through it in the last 30 days. I hope this helps. This gun is sentimental since it was a gift from my father who recently passed away. I would love to see better grouping. Are you still using this gun and have found anymore solutions?
I will try these other types, thank you for the insight!Take this advice or leave it, but I have 3 M77s tang safety and Mk2.
I have one in 300 win mag ive shot for almost a decade. Excellent hunting rifle. Will not group boat tail bullets. WILL NOT group boat tail bullets. Ive tried 13-220 grain boat tails. Lapua scenar, eldx, sierra game king, amax, they all shoot 3-6" at 100 yards.
What my rifles do shoot REALLY WELL is flat base bullets. Speer hotcor, hornady interlock both will group one oval hole at 200 yards off a sand bag.
I have no idea why these old rifles dont like boat tails. I consider it a win they shoot cheap bullets very well.
This. Make sure the front screw is TIGHT. Rugers have a unique angled screw. Take the BA out of the stock. Since you used a Lead Sled you’ll want to inspect for cracks anyway. Throw the Lead Sled away.Check the front-angled action screw. It needs to be very tight on the 77 to make it accurate. Also, check the scope mounts to make sure they are tight. Sometimes, poor accuracy in a 77 is due to the magazine box being too tight and binding the action. You can fix this by slightly shaving the box with a file. A Google search will provide more info and how-to examples. I have had a bunch of Ruger 77s and have never seen one inaccurate after some tinkering.
What does “my MOA” mean?I know this is an older post but I'm new to the game. I was gifted the M77 Mark II 7mm mag about 20 years ago and never really got into the gun until this year, I bought an elk tag and a guide. I have been a muzzleloader guy. The thing has always kicked like muel and the trigger pull was at 8-10lbs, it sucked. I hired a gunsmith to thread the barrel and instal a muzzle break (reduced recoil by about 40%) along with changing the trigger pull to a 4.5lb pull and a limb saver,, a cheek riser (which is only a sleeve with a pad, this has help my accuracy. I have shot a lot of different rounds through it recently, hoping to find that perfect match and become more comfortable with the gun. I thought the Remington Core-Lokt 150 grain was good but yesterday I shot some Winchester 165 grain soft-tail yesterday and it was way better grouping. My MOA at 100yds was about 1.5inches prone. I think I'm becoming a more consistent shot, given I have shot maybe over 100 rounds through it in the last 30 days. I hope this helps. This gun is sentimental since it was a gift from my father who recently passed away. I would love to see better grouping. Are you still using this gun and have found anymore solutions?
got it! The bullet is a btsp. I get ahead of myself sometimes.What does “my MOA” mean?
Moa is moa. It’s an increment of measure. I doesn’t change to something specific to the individual.
Also there are boattail and there are soft point bullets. Not softtails.
As a survivor of the M77 fits, I understand where you’re coming from. Mine did the same thing to me and cost me a ton of money trying to make it shoot. Put a new barrel on and was printing half inch groups.I don’t have a torque screwdriver. Is that necessary to make this correct? Or just hand tighten it is fine