Ruger M77 MkII 7mm rem mag trouble

[AgentP]

So I’m preparing for an elk hunt in late October and am shooting my dad’s old ruger m77 mk2 7mm rem mag. The thing has been giving me fits. I am trying 2 different ammos. Barnes vor-tx 160 gr and federal nosler partitions 160 gr. Today I went and shot and couldn’t get any good shots besides 2 shots from the Barnes that were kissing. I was also using a lead sled so I know it’s not human error. Group 1 and 3 were the partitions and groups 2,4 and shot 5 were the Barnes vor-tx. So a couple things:
1. After 6 shots the barrel was to hot to hold for a long time
2. This rifle barrel has never been cleaned, but when I looked at it (unloaded of course) I couldn’t see any dirt or crap in there. I did run the snake through it and it was kinda dirty but not yearly significant dirt.

What is going on with this rifle? Am I just not letting it cool long enough? I waited about 20 minutes between groups 2 and 3. I’m starting to get frustrated. I think the partitions are definitely not liked by my gun as the first shot was so off. My other option is my dad’s sako A7 300 wsm but I won’t be able to get that gun till exactly a month before the hunt due to it being in Louisiana and me in Colorado. Any advice? Should cleaning the bore really help that much?

 

[ChrisAU]

1 - ditch the lead sled. If you haven’t already you will damage that stock. That could actually be your problem, inspect it for cracks in the tang and grip area.

2 - what optic?

3 - don’t worry about how hot the barrel is or isn’t

 

[WeiserBucks]

1 - ditch the lead sled. If you haven’t already you will damage that stock. That could actually be your problem, inspect it for cracks in the tang and grip area.

2 - what optic?

3 - don’t worry about how hot the barrel is or isn’t

All of this.

 

[AgentP]

1 - ditch the lead sled. If you haven’t already you will damage that stock. That could actually be your problem, inspect it for cracks in the tang and grip area.

2 - what optic?

3 - don’t worry about how hot the barrel is or isn’t

Optic is a buckmaster scope nothing fancy. This rifle has killed so many deer so idk why it’s acting up now. Now I’m worried the stock is damaged. I’ll have to look. Do I need to flex the stock to look for cracks opening? Do you think it could be copper fowling as well?

 

[Choupique]

rifle has killed so many deer so idk why it’s acting up now

Lead sled + suspect scope is my guess. Try shooting it off sandbags, try a different scope, try a different rifle ti make sure it isn't you, etc.

It might have killed a dump truck load of deer shooting just like that for all you know. It isn't great, but it isn't completely unusable either. All those bullets are dead deer at 100 yards.

 

[ChrisAU]

Optic is a buckmaster scope nothing fancy. This rifle has killed so many deer so idk why it’s acting up now. Now I’m worried the stock is damaged. I’ll have to look. Do I need to flex the stock to look for cracks opening? Do you think it could be copper fowling as well?

I’m fully in the never clean a rifle barrel camp. And I never have unless the rifle went underwater.

I would look at the stock closely. If it is cracked the action may be moving erratically at each shot; the lead sled makes sure that the full force generated goes directly into the stock from the action screw pillars and recoil lug. Generally a lot of that energy is absorbed by the shooter.

 

[JBradley500]

id be trying a different scope and double checking all scope and action screws.

 

[AgentP]

Lead sled + suspect scope is my guess. Try shooting it off sandbags, try a different scope, try a different rifle ti make sure it isn't you, etc.

It might have killed a dump truck load of deer shooting just like that for all you know. It isn't great, but it isn't completely unusable either. All those bullets are dead deer at 100 yards.

So lead sled can throw off accuracy? Also I looked at the barrel end and definitely see copper fowling. I shot from a lead sled a month ago with a different round that was actually too heavy of a grain for the rifle twist. I think I’ll go ahead and fly the sako out here also just in case. If I pull the rifle out and shoot well the first time I guess a month is enough. I’m just trying to make sure I can shoot to 200 yards since I’ll be elk hunting. Luckily my unit is heavily forested so I doubt I’ll be shooting much past 100 yards

 

[AgentP]

id be trying a different scope and double checking all scope and action screws.

The scope is solid, the Nikon buckmaster is what we have in half our rifles. I’ll check the screws though. Do they need to be torqued or just make sure they are tight?

 

[ChrisAU]

id be trying a different scope and double checking all scope and action screws.

Yep I forgot that, do that too.

And since it’s not shooting well, clean it if you want.

 

[WeiserBucks]

Take the Sako if it's proven.

 

[WeiserBucks]

The scope is solid, the Nikon buckmaster is what we have in half our rifles.

Scopes fail, it's a fact and something you shouldn't turn your back on.

 

[Schmo]

To underline and second what has been said:

Verify the stock is sound

Check torque on action screws, rings, bases, etc

Ditch the lead sled - shoot off bags

Monolithic 160gr bullets are probably too long to be stabilized by your twist rate - I’ll bet you have a 9.5” twist. 160 gr Cup & core bullets will stabilize with 9.5” twist, but probably not monos, they’re significantly longer.

 

[AgentP]

Scopes fail, it's a fact and something you shouldn't turn your back on.

After research it looks like the Nikons do fail. Unfortunately I’m trying to not buy another scope since budget is tight and I’ve already dropped co much money on other gear to get ready. I think I’ll just get that sako with the trijicon already on it and practice a few times. A month should be enough to make sure my rifle is dialed in.

 

[AgentP]

To underline and second what has been said:

Verify the stock is sound

Check torque on action screws, rings, bases, etc

Ditch the lead sled - shoot off bags

Monolithic 160gr bullets are probably too long to be stabilized by your twist rate - I’ll bet you have a 9.5” twist. 160 gr Cup & core bullets will stabilize with 9.5” twist, but probably not monos, they’re significantly longer.

Any recommendations on an elk round?

 

[WeiserBucks]

Any recommendations on an elk round?

What is your Sako?

 

[AgentP]

What is your Sako?

It’s an A7 300 wsm. It’s been used to kill an elk so the rounds are good. I was more asking about non monolithic rounds for the 7mm rem mag

 

[WeiserBucks]

I was more asking about non monolithic rounds for the 7mm rem mag

Almost anything will work at the ranges you're describing.

 

[AgentP]

Almost anything will work at the ranges you're describing.

I guess at the end of the day, the 2” grouping I’m getting isn’t terrible for a big body animal like an elk, especially since I’m hunting in heavily forested area

 

[WeiserBucks]

2" groups don't inspire confidence unless you're absolutely certain shots will be close.