RokStok

I'll answer in a general sense for everyone's benefit.

A poly finish is ON the wood.
An oil finish is IN the wood.

A poly finish builds up in the pores and adheres to the wood but can come off for different reasons.

A good oil finish soaks into the fibers of the wood and oil residue/fine wood particles fill the pores to create the finish. The oil can be pulled out of the wood some but can't come off completely unless wood is removed.

my finish

After stippling, rail hardware and lightening the butt, the whole stock is coated with a polymer that soaks in like oil and cures. That is sanded back and then the finish coat begins. The finish is applied and sanded as needed until the pores are full and several full coats on top of that.
The intent is the entire stock is physically encapsulated against moisture.

No maintenance is needed beyond how you would treat the metal parts. Just use it!

Large scratches or dents that puncture the finish or corner abrasions may cause the finish to flake eventually like any finish coat if oil or water repeatedly soaks in under the finish.

A small bottle of Tru-oil is pretty cheap and very similar to the finish I use.
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This can be applied to the scratch with a Q-tip to seal it against moisture. Wipe the excess off around the area. If it leaves a tacky spot, that can be polished off with a denim scrap.

If needed, I can refinish the front half or back half of a Rokstok, the grip is a good place to break the work.

For a oil finish, wipe it down with a cotton rag and a little alcohol. go light on the alcohol because it will pull the oil out of the wood.
Then rub in a coat or two of oil.

If the oil is thinned with mineral spirits, it will pull into the wood a little more. I rub on a "wet" coat and let it sit over night, rub it in the next day and it's good.
By wet, I mean looks wet, not running down the stock.

Hope that helps.
 
I don’t want to portray myself as any kind of wood expert, and I’m sure @longrangelead will have a ton of info for you on your stock.

But Tung oil is my absolute favorite wood finish.
Apply generously to the wood, and let it soak in for an hour. Then buff with a dry cloth until dry.

It penetrates the wood pores, bonds to the lignin, and polymerizes to create a waterproof finish. For raw wood, it needs 5 or so coats initially. Then touch up with another coat once per year.
 
Ahhh that's a point I missed and didn't think about. I forgot how the wooden rokstoks are 3 laminated pieces.

I wouldn't know in that case, but I'd guess they're pretty much as durable as solid wood if what Mike uses for glue is stable long term.
I did have some prototypes pull apart with a different adhesive.
The glue I use now is waterproof exterior grade wood glue with decades of proven performance.
if the stock comes apart, it won't be at the glue joint!
 
Just don't have a horse fall on you and the wood rokstok should be fine

The rifle was strapped to the back of my pack, and the mule pinned the rifle butt against the ground, and the suppressor against a large tree running up a very steep hill. The impact sounded nearly as load as a gunshot- Ryan thought it killed me. Bent the tines on the CGS suppressor and I thought it broke the rifle in half. Without question it would have snapped a CF stock. Rifle was still zeroed afterwards, killed 5 more animals, and another 4,500 rounds before a crack was found-
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@longrangelead was able to find a different glue/bond that won’t let it happen again. I cannot get through clearly enough about this, I have dropped rifles off of two story buildings onto concrete- that was the hardest hit I have ever had a rifle take.
 
The rifle was strapped to the back of my pack, and the mule pinned the rifle butt against the ground, and the suppressor against a large tree running up a very steep hill. The impact sounded nearly as load as a gunshot- Ryan thought it killed me. Bent the tines on the CGS suppressor and I thought it broke the rifle in half. Without question it would have snapped a CF stock. Rifle was still zeroed afterwards, killed 5 more animals, and another 4,500 rounds before a crack was found-
View attachment 982190


@longrangelead was able to find a different glue/bond that won’t let it happen again. I cannot get through clearly enough about this, I have dropped rifles off of two story buildings onto concrete- that was the hardest hit I have ever had a rifle take.
I was just making a funny. I will have a wooden on at some point
 
The rifle was strapped to the back of my pack, and the mule pinned the rifle butt against the ground, and the suppressor against a large tree running up a very steep hill. The impact sounded nearly as load as a gunshot- Ryan thought it killed me. Bent the tines on the CGS suppressor and I thought it broke the rifle in half. Without question it would have snapped a CF stock. Rifle was still zeroed afterwards, killed 5 more animals, and another 4,500 rounds before a crack was found-
View attachment 982190


@longrangelead was able to find a different glue/bond that won’t let it happen again. I cannot get through clearly enough about this, I have dropped rifles off of two story buildings onto concrete- that was the hardest hit I have ever had a rifle take.
This is EXACTLY why I go to the trouble to laminate the blanks for the Rokstoks. A hit half that hard would have snapped it at the grip using a solid blank.
 
I see the small arca plate listed as an add on for rokstocks now, looks like its meant to be mounted just in front of the magazine. Two questions if anyone knows.

1. If you get these on a standard rokstock do they inlet it to sit flush or just screw it on? And if just screwed on I assume no challenge to just order one and do that

2. On a wood rokstock lite I am guessing it could be inlet a bit to sit flush and given its not so far forward like the rails I am guessing it would work on a wood one even with the sendero profile?
 
I see the small arca plate listed as an add on for rokstocks now, looks like its meant to be mounted just in front of the magazine. Two questions if anyone knows.

1. If you get these on a standard rokstock do they inlet it to sit flush or just screw it on? And if just screwed on I assume no challenge to just order one and do that

2. On a wood rokstock lite I am guessing it could be inlet a bit to sit flush and given its not so far forward like the rails I am guessing it would work on a wood one even with the sendero profile?

It is not flush. It’s screwed on.
 
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