RokStok

PLhunter

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65 ft lbs? That's a light torque for wheels on your car, not for a stock. 65 in/lbs... that's what you torque it to. I run higher on chassis.

If you torqued it to 65 ft lbs something gave and probably didn't spring back.

Ken
Inch pounds. I didn’t put units because I figured it would be assumed… I don’t have a torque wrench that reads ft lbs. if I put ft lbs anywhere then my bad but I assumed I didn’t need to do the units. But 65 inch pounds isn’t nothing. Basically max tight that can be achieved by most people with a screwdriver.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Inch pounds. I didn’t put units because I figured it would be assumed… I don’t have a torque wrench that reads ft lbs. if I put ft lbs anywhere then my bad but I assumed I didn’t need to do the units. But 65 inch pounds isn’t nothing. Basically max tight that can be achieved by most people with a screwdriver.
Are you using 65" lbs with factory plastic trigger guard? I've found 50-55ish to be the sweet spot for factory plastic and some need shims with Stockys VG2's and Rokstoks.

You're inletting could be a touch out of spec. Not uncommon for any stock manufacturer. Either get the dremmel and sand paper out and relieve it or send it in for inspection/corrective measures.
 

PLhunter

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Are you using 65" lbs with factory plastic trigger guard? I've found 50-55ish to be the sweet spot for factory plastic and some need shims with Stockys VG2's and Rokstoks.

You're inletting could be a touch out of spec. Not uncommon for any stock manufacturer. Either get the dremmel and sand paper out and relieve it or send it in for inspection/corrective measures.
I am. It was the only spec rating I could find for the rokstok. The action screws didn’t bottom out and the bottom metal is nice and flush. 50-55 seems more reasonable. Though I’d likely still have the same pressure points I shared in the picture.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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I am. It was the only spec rating I could find for the rokstok. The action screws didn’t bottom out and the bottom metal is nice and flush. 50-55 seems more reasonable. Though I’d likely still have the same pressure points I shared in the picture.
10-4. Yes, you will still need to relieve that area still.
 

ElPollo

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Yeah, the contact in front of the lug should be flush and those two shiny spots are where most of the pressure is digging in. The barrel actually raises as I tighten.
Are you sure this is where your problem is? Your statement about the barrel raising as you tighten the lock bolts makes me think you potentially don’t fully have the recoil lug seated on the recess on the bottom of the action. It would take a shit ton of pressure at that pressure point in front of the lug to cause noticeable barrel deflection. But if your lug isn’t seated correctly it might look like you have barrel defection.
 

PLhunter

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Are you sure this is where your problem is? Your statement about the barrel raising as you tighten the lock bolts makes me think you potentially don’t fully have the recoil lug seated on the recess on the bottom of the action. It would take a shit ton of pressure at that pressure point in front of the lug to cause noticeable barrel deflection. But if your lug isn’t seated correctly it might look like you have barrel defection.
I thought about that but I don’t think that’s the issue for a couple reasons. Those pressure point just behind and in front of the lug are below the plane of the lug. If it wasn’t in the recess that wouldn’t be possible to be making contact there.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Fighting the urge to build another 22CM on a walnut Rokstok with all stainless metal
Do it!

Karl has two more stainless barrels and another Tikka action that are getting rechambered to 22CM for me...

Talked to Jessica just now at UM and my Walnut Wood Rokstok is still in process for another 2 weeks. I already have another Polonium in hand and another Maven RS1.2 for that build. I need this gun for a 2 week Northern California trip in about 6 weeks so fingers crossed. Being patient sucks haha.
 

ElPollo

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I thought about that but I don’t think that’s the issue for a couple reasons. Those pressure point just behind and in front of the lug are below the plane of the lug. If it wasn’t in the recess that wouldn’t be possible to be making contact there.
Are you sure it’s actually making contact there or could the marks be from something else before you got the stock? I can also see a contact mark developing there if you didn’t have your lug lined up and tightened the front action screw first. Not getting your lug in the action correctly is easy to do with these Tikkas. If your action isn’t parallel with the top of the stock, I’ll wager that is your problem.
 

PLhunter

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Are you sure it’s actually making contact there or could the marks be from something else before you got the stock? I can also see a contact mark developing there if you didn’t have your lug lined up and tightened the front action screw first. Not getting your lug in the action correctly is easy to do with these Tikkas. If your action isn’t parallel with the top of the stock, I’ll wager that is your problem.
The marks are new and the shiny ones just in front of the recoil lug match the action on the tikka perfectly. It’s hard to capture in the photo just how clearly those are compression marks on the stock. Also those marks measure perfect with a micrometer for it being on the recoil lug correctly.
 

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PLhunter

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It looks user error to me. Recoil lug not seated in some regard
👌 it’s either in the recess of the action or not. No room for in between. The action is clearly contacting below the plane of the recoil lug in those pictures I took of the stock. I don’t see how it could be half on with the tolerances. Riding level but it’s pushing the forearm down or barrel up when tightening down. My guess is at that contact point circled in the pictures. But it’s 100% lined up on the lug. Measured the marks on the stock and action with a micrometer and they match up exactly to placing the recess on the lug. But yeah I’ll figure it out elsewhere.
 

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There are several pages of seating issues in this thread. UM made their lug to mediate that potential issue. So even with the tolerances you could have it not seated properly. Could have crushed the bottom of the lug cutout from overtightening. It could be an actual defect with your stock.

Send it in
 
Joined
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Here is one for you all, almost a year later and we now ship stocks without recoil lugs...

Even after the "red carpet" checklist.

Hate to be that guy but what good is a process if it's not followed. In my business people die as a result of foodborne illness when this happens...
 

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Dobermann

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Here is one for you all, almost a year later and we now ship stocks without recoil lugs...

Even after the "red carpet" checklist.

Hate to be that guy but what good is a process if it's not followed. In my business people die as a result of foodborne illness when this happens...
Not to pile on UM at all (I'm a repeat customer, and will order a Rokstock as soon as possible), but just picking up on your last point - there's a few of us here in industries/sectors where if we don't follow an SOP (or equivalent), then people can die. That gives quite a different perspective on attention to detail.
 
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