Rokstok review thread

Can you send a photo of your right hand shooting grip please? I’ve seen the grip issue with a few folks who are using a thumb “wrap” style grip, or an overly off to the side/cautious (gay) PRS chassis style grip.

A more neutral and in line with bore grip/thumb position is favorable on the rokstok (and for shooting in general).
Absolutely! And if there's any help I greatly appreciate it I'm by no means an expert I just know what I have done on my prior stocks
See attached I put both when my index finger is in for me what I consider proper alignment versus where it naturally falls where you can see it sticks well beyond the trigger shoe.
 

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Absolutely! And if there's any help I greatly appreciate it I'm by no means an expert I just know what I have done on my prior stocks
See attached I put both when my index finger is in for me what I consider proper alignment versus where it naturally falls where you can see it sticks well beyond the trigger shoe.
This looks to be a bit of a "modified" between what I call the "gay" PRS grip and a good neutral grip for controlling and managing the gun.

See if it feels "beter" by changing your grip just a bit, like the below. Think thumb in line with bore and fat part of your thumb at the bottom of a clock face. This will naturally pull your hand "back" and sit it in a better spot on the Rokstok grip.

May feel "weird" for the first dozen or so shots, then it will click.

IMG_1510.jpg

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This looks to be a bit of a "modified" between what I call the "gay" PRS grip and a good neutral grip for controlling and managing the gun.

See if it feels "beter" by changing your grip just a bit, like the below. Think thumb in line with bore and fat part of your thumb at the bottom of a clock face. This will naturally pull your hand "back" and sit it in a better spot on the Rokstok grip.

May feel "weird" for the first dozen or so shots, then it will click.

View attachment 910072

View attachment 910071
Good to know I am only 1/2 gay. I will adjust and see how it feels thanks much for the insight! My prior stock has a thumbshelf so I am used to letting it rest there behind the safety. Cheers!
 
@mxgsfmdpx Still has a bit of a gap around the index finger It may just be how the rock stock fits with howa actions.... I will keep playing with it though.
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I am struggle with this stock. I have. 2 of them and neither one shoots worth a dam. I’ve tried 3 different Tikka actions and they all group 2-3” at best. I put them back into the factory stock, Bravo or Field stock and they are 1.5” or less. I’ve had to buy spacers and different height rings. I suspect I will have to get them bedded. Now I read I don’t have correct hand placement.
I am not seeing the juice is worth the squeeze right now. The only real advantage I can verify is less movement after the shot. I’ll give it a few more sessions as I have other stocks to compare it to.

What I don’t understand is how a plastic mass produced factory stock outshoots 4 different “custom stocks”.
 
I am struggle with this stock. I have. 2 of them and neither one shoots worth a dam. I’ve tried 3 different Tikka actions and they all group 2-3” at best. I put them back into the factory stock, Bravo or Field stock and they are 1.5” or less. I’ve had to buy spacers and different height rings. I suspect I will have to get them bedded. Now I read I don’t have correct hand placement.
I am not seeing the juice is worth the squeeze right now. The only real advantage I can verify is less movement after the shot. I’ll give it a few more sessions as I have other stocks to compare it to.

What I don’t understand is how a plastic mass produced factory stock outshoots 4 different “custom stocks”.
Mine shoots very well, on par with the prior stock and around 1/2 to 3/4 MOA 3 shot with the bullet the barrel likes. Sorry, you're finding issues with accuracy, which is weird. For me, it's more I wish the palm swell were bigger, or better yet the action inlet further away from me as the shooter. Otherwise, it's been as advertised.
 
I am struggle with this stock. I have. 2 of them and neither one shoots worth a dam. I’ve tried 3 different Tikka actions and they all group 2-3” at best. I put them back into the factory stock, Bravo or Field stock and they are 1.5” or less. I’ve had to buy spacers and different height rings. I suspect I will have to get them bedded. Now I read I don’t have correct hand placement.
I am not seeing the juice is worth the squeeze right now. The only real advantage I can verify is less movement after the shot. I’ll give it a few more sessions as I have other stocks to compare it to.

What I don’t understand is how a plastic mass produced factory stock outshoots 4 different “custom stocks”.
Dude, something isn’t right. What are you torquing action screws to?

I’ve owned six of them and they all shot good. If you can’t get them to work, I’d reach out to UM.

Also, I think it’s unfair to call them plastic mass produced stocks when they’re carbon fiber.

Edit: Misread the last part.
 
I am struggle with this stock. I have. 2 of them and neither one shoots worth a dam. I’ve tried 3 different Tikka actions and they all group 2-3” at best. I put them back into the factory stock, Bravo or Field stock and they are 1.5” or less. I’ve had to buy spacers and different height rings. I suspect I will have to get them bedded. Now I read I don’t have correct hand placement.
I am not seeing the juice is worth the squeeze right now. The only real advantage I can verify is less movement after the shot. I’ll give it a few more sessions as I have other stocks to compare it to.

What I don’t understand is how a plastic mass produced factory stock outshoots 4 different “custom stocks”.
Are you sure you’re getting the recoil lug seated all the away into the action? I struggled with this on one of my rokstoks. Post pics of a side view of the action in the rokstok and torqued properly.
 
puts my trigger finger in what I consider optimal position with only a slight angle and trigger on the finger pad. The Rokstok, my trigger finger is significantly bent more and its a shorter distance. If I were to let it fall naturally, it would land in the crease behind the pad on the index finger.


Are you trying to keep the pad of your trigger finger on the trigger?
 
Dude, something isn’t right. What are you torquing action screws to?

I’ve owned six of them and they all shot good. If you can’t get them to work, I’d reach out to UM.

Also, I think it’s unfair to call them plastic mass produced stocks when they’re carbon fiber.
The plastic stock I am referring to is the factory model.
 
Are you sure you’re getting the recoil lug seated all the away into the action? I struggled with this on one of my rokstoks. Post pics of a side view of the action in the rokstok and torqued properly.
I will. I am traveling for work this week and should have time next week to post pics.
 
Are you trying to keep the pad of your trigger finger on the trigger?
Yes exactly so. My other stock has less bend at the knuckle and seems to me at least, to more naturally align with the pad. But if aligning my pad there is wrong well then... It is odd bc photo together they look extremely similar in where the action sits but the deeper grip area and wider palm swell of the black stock just seems to make some difference. Overall I put this as a me thing to adjust to as a shooter but it is of note.
 

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I am struggle with this stock. I have. 2 of them and neither one shoots worth a dam. I’ve tried 3 different Tikka actions and they all group 2-3” at best. I put them back into the factory stock, Bravo or Field stock and they are 1.5” or less. I’ve had to buy spacers and different height rings. I suspect I will have to get them bedded. Now I read I don’t have correct hand placement.
I am not seeing the juice is worth the squeeze right now. The only real advantage I can verify is less movement after the shot. I’ll give it a few more sessions as I have other stocks to compare it to.

What I don’t understand is how a plastic mass produced factory stock outshoots 4 different “custom stocks”.
The Stockys inletting is trickier than any other Tikka stock I’ve used, to get the action properly seated on the recoil lug.

Another question. Did you happen to order “factory Sporter” barrel channel by chance? This honestly should not even be a choice for the Rokstok in my opinion, as I’ve seen multiple of them not be fully free floated, especially with D18 profile Tikka barrels.
 
The Stockys inletting is trickier than any other Tikka stock I’ve used, to get the action properly seated on the recoil lug.

Another question. Did you happen to order “factory Sporter” barrel channel by chance? This honestly should not even be a choice for the Rokstok in my opinion, as I’ve seen multiple of them not be fully free floated, especially with D18 profile Tikka barrels.
I order one and don’t recall the inlet size. The other I picked up used on the forum. I now have 5 Tikkas, which I never thought I would as I don’t find the action attractive. Then after reading here over the past few years I picked up a used 223. It cycled better than my 700 actions so I looked for deals on them. I am using a new 223 1:8 16” threaded 1/2 model Trigger adjusted to 2 lbs.
SWFA 6x. Med UM rings and stance 7 or 9
Pic is in in factory stock. Very grip and matching 11 degree negative comb.

Same set up in 2 different RS had both shooting 2.7”
It’s a work in progress and I plan on using this action in the 6 different Tikka stocks I have available to me to see what I like.
 

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Not to derail or take away from his questions but I ordered one this morning for a 223 sporter. I ordered one of the regular 16” 223’s euro optic has on sale. I ordered the sporter inlet. I generally have the dremel sandpaper and a socket handy when a new stock comes in. Sounds like I may need it for the barrel channel if nothing else.
 
Not to derail or take away from his questions but I ordered one this morning for a 223 sporter. I ordered one of the regular 16” 223’s euro optic has on sale. I ordered the sporter inlet. I generally have the dremel sandpaper and a socket handy when a new stock comes in. Sounds like I may need it for the barrel channel if nothing else.
Yep sand away and you’ll be good to go 👍🏻
 
Yes exactly so. My other stock has less bend at the knuckle and seems to me at least, to more naturally align with the pad. But if aligning my pad there is wrong well then... It is odd bc photo together they look extremely similar in where the action sits but the deeper grip area and wider palm swell of the black stock just seems to make some difference. Overall I put this as a me thing to adjust to as a shooter but it is of note.

It does not matter where the finger contacts the trigger. The only thing that matters is the the trigger and pressure is 90° to the barrel (straight back). Most people do better with the trigger in the crease of the first joint (or deeper). There also isn’t necessarily anything wrong with pulling your index finger out like you have it, and getting a true 90° bend at the second joint.
 
It does not matter where the finger contacts the trigger. The only thing that matters is the the trigger and pressure is 90° to the barrel (straight back). Most people do better with the trigger in the crease of the first joint (or deeper). There also isn’t necessarily anything wrong with pulling your index finger out like you have it, and getting a true 90° bend at the second joint.
Perfect and thanks Form - As usual, you cut through the BS and/or overthinking! Cheers!
 
Not to derail or take away from his questions but I ordered one this morning for a 223 sporter. I ordered one of the regular 16” 223’s euro optic has on sale. I ordered the sporter inlet. I generally have the dremel sandpaper and a socket handy when a new stock comes in. Sounds like I may need it for the barrel channel if nothing else.
I opened the channel on all of mine.
 
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