Right tear questions

[MT257]

So I have a slight right tear in a RX-1. I read the 2018 Hoyt technical document attached in the link below. On page 3, nubmer 4 it says :
Cable side “Main body buss cable yoke” can be twisted up to reduce right tear but the cam should not be stood up past vertical.
This is where I was hoping for clarification. Does this mean to put a twist in the main body buss cable by adding to a twist in the top of that and not with the yokes? I wanted to try this before removing the exact grip. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

https://s3.hoyt.com/uploads/2019/59f0e950d494b119638337.pdf

 

[Zac]

Just twist your right yoke and untwist the left the same number of turns.

 

[MT257]

Just twist your right yoke and untwist the left the same number of turns.

I understand that part but the document referenced said the main body buss cable. Would putting a twist in the main body buss cable still be able to maintain the cam in the vertical position? I would think that twisting/untwisting yokes would make the cam not be in the vertical position.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Like @Zac said, add twists to the right leg of the top yoke and remove the same number of twists from the left leg to correct a right tear. Hoyt's terminology is a bit confusing, but I think they're just trying to differentiate between the static yoke ("main body buss cable yoke") on the top (which is integral to the main body of the buss cable) and the floating yoke ("split yoke") on the bottom (which is a separate piece of cable connected to the "main body buss cable" by a splitter). Referring to the yokes as "top/bottom" or "static/floating" would be less confusing.


I don't really understand what Hoyt means by "past vertical" cam lean. Depending how you look at it, lean in either direction could be considered "past" vertical.

 

[MT257]

I called hoyt. The gentleman I spoke with recommended putting a twist in the right yoke to start with then retiming cam. Said I should be ok by leaving the left yoke untouched with a single twist.

 

[OR Archer]

I called hoyt. The gentleman I spoke with recommended putting a twist in the right yoke to start with then retiming cam. Said I should be ok by leaving the left yoke untouched with a single twist.

By taking out the same amount of twists from the opposite side yoke you keep the overall length of the buss cable the same thus not affecting the cam timing. Save yourself some time and just remove the twist from the left.

 

[Gerard Marcaurele]

By taking out the same amount of twists from the opposite side yoke you keep the overall length of the buss cable the same thus not affecting the cam timing. Save yourself some time and just remove the twist from the left.

I’ve tuned quite a few Hoyts, and this is correct. They are a hyper-sensitive hybrid, in my opinion. I’ve seen half twists in the yokes cause timing issues. Just be sure to take out of one side as many twists as you put in the other. That’s your best chance of keeping the timing as precise as you can while adjusting cam lean. If you get the right tear out but timing is barely off, you can use the yokes to fine tune the timing. When you twist and untwist them, the cams are less effected than when you put a twist in the larger part of the cable

 

[MT257]

Would increasing draw length help this in anyway?

 

[Zac]

Would increasing draw length help this in anyway?

No, and don't lose your mind over cam lean, it's totally normal.

 

[MT257]

Well I put a twist in the right took one from the left and moved my rest slightly and ended up with this tear.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Well I put a twist in the right took one from the left and moved my rest slightly and ended up with this tear.
View attachment 296293

I'd call it good and go shoot bareshafts.

 

[MT257]

I'd call it good and go shoot bareshafts.

So I’ve never dove down the bare shaft tuning hole before will those adjustments be made with the rest or the yokes?

 

[OR Archer]

Yokes mainly but micro adjustments to the rest can be done also. But what ever adjustments you make are going to be smaller than compared to a fletched shaft.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

So I’ve never dove down the bare shaft tuning hole before will those adjustments be made with the rest or the yokes?

The same means of adjustment used to paper tune are also used to bareshaft tune (and broadhead tune). The handy guide below from Gold Tip shows the bareshaft and broadhead equivalents of the various paper tears.



Bareshaft tuning is a good way to verify that your bullet hole through paper isn't misleading you. Some archers prefer to skip paper tuning altogether and go straight to bareshaft tuning. I'm beginning to see the wisdom of this approach as I've occasionally had stubborn paper tears that wouldn't resolve, but I could still get bareshafts and broadheads to shoot well.

 

[Gerard Marcaurele]

If you bare shaft tune, be sure to add weight to the back of the arrow to match your fletching/wrap combo. Here is where you can get super detailed and have an arrow fly absolutely perfect for a setup

 

[MT257]

If you bare shaft tune, be sure to add weight to the back of the arrow to match your fletching/wrap combo. Here is where you can get super detailed and have an arrow fly absolutely perfect for a setup

I’ve got a single shaft I cut vanes off and left the base of the vanes still on the shaft.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I’ve got a single shaft I cut vanes off and left the base of the vanes still on the shaft.

IMO that's good enough. I understand the logic, but I've never actually bothered with adding weight to bareshafts to replicate vane weight. I don't think ±20-ish grains on the back end is going to appreciably affect my tune. I know some guys use electrical tape or foil tape to weight up the back of their bareshafts...to each his own.

 

[WakePraySlay]

I agree with Mighty Mouse. I do paper tune both my fletched and bare shaft arrows. Then shoot both at 20 yards to see where they are grouping in relation to eachother. Then it’s all about micro adjusting to bring them together. Also as MM said I don’t worry about replacing the weight on the back end of my bare shafts either. The few grains you’re losing on the back end will not make a big difference shooting at 20 yards. Arrows fly pretty flat at that distance especially with the speeds that today’s bows put out.

 

[MT257]

I think I’m heading in the right direction. This was at 20 yards. I will shoot again to verify as I shot between slight breeze. I did shoot a broadhead at 20 after the fletched and bare shaft picture was taken. It was a couple inches low. Would that be the due to the slight difference seen in the one photo?

 

[WakePraySlay]

For now don’t worry about where your broadhead is hitting in relation to the field points. I wouldn’t even shoot a broadhead while trying to group my fletched and bare shaft with FP’s. It would get to my head to much and that’s not what you want while tuning your bow.

What this WHOLE broadhead and bareshaft tuning test does has minimal correlation to where your hunting arrows are hitting with the bareshafts and fletched field pointsWhat this test DOES is take a stabilized (fletched) arrow and a unstabilized (bareshaft) arrow, given everything else is the same besides the fletchings or lack of, to properly have the most direct, balanced, and aligned bow which in turn will help with your grouping using BH. Especially further down range.

Basically you want your fletched and bareshaft arrows to be symmetrical to your bow. So grouping them together at 20 yards within a 1/2” to 1/4” of each other would signify a precise tune. Also this is important. Pay attention to how your bare shaft is impacting. Since there is no stabilizing features of shooting a bare shaft, the point of impact and the angle of the nock end (tail left, tail right) will tell you which way your bow is pushing the arrow. All micro adjustments. If tail left, micro adjust rest to the right. If tail right, micro adjust rest to the left. And hopefully at the end of things the bareshaft and fletched will be sitting at the same angle and point of impact