Right tear questions

[Zac]

If your broadhead is hitting low that means your nock high. I don't see a problem tuning with a fletched shaft, bare shaft and broadhead simultaneously. Just shoot the broadhead first. Followed by the other two. The broadhead and the bareshaft should share a similar impact point. You'll make the same adjustments mentioned above for a broadhead. For the last photo I'd throw a twist or half in the right yoke, and take the same out of the left. Once you get 20 down go to 40. From 40 to 60 you can usually use your rest. They are going to be extremely slight adjustments at that range.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Pay attention to how your bare shaft is impacting. Since there is no stabilizing features of shooting a bare shaft, the point of impact and the angle of the nock end (tail left, tail right) will tell you which way your bow is pushing the arrow. All micro adjustments. If tail left, micro adjust rest to the right. If tail right, micro adjust rest to the left. And hopefully at the end of things the bareshaft and fletched will be sitting at the same angle and point of impact

In my experience, angle of impact is often an unreliable indicator due to inconsistencies in the target medium. In theory bareshaft angle should correlate with bareshaft point of impact, but I personally only use POI to inform my tuning adjustments.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'd trust broadhead over bareshafts. Ultimately that's what you are tuning for. I bareshaft so I don't burn up targets with broadheads.

Bareshafts are extremely sensitive, your form can be altering your results. If your broadheads are hitting low, you are nock high.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I think I’m heading in the right direction. This was at 20 yards. I will shoot again to verify as I shot between slight breeze. I did shoot a broadhead at 20 after the fletched and bare shaft picture was taken. It was a couple inches low. Would that be the due to the slight difference seen in the one photo?View attachment 296692View attachment 296693

In the photo your bareshaft is left of the fletched shaft (and pretty much even vertically), which would suggest twisting the right yoke/untwisting the left yoke or shifting the rest to the left.

A broadhead hitting below a field point is equivalent to a bareshaft hitting below a fletched shaft and a nock high paper tear, which would suggest raising the rest, lowering the nocking point, or adjusting cam timing.

Like @Billy Goat said, broadheads hitting with field points is your ultimate goal. If you don't mind a little more wear and tear on your target, you can skip the other methods and go straight to broadhead tuning. The only thing you might discover via bareshaft tuning that broadhead tuning might not explicitly reveal is vane contact (which I don't think is an issue for you given how close your bareshaft and fletched shaft are hitting in that photo). Shaft-insert-head/point alignment is an important factor in broadhead tuning, and lack of concentricity between components could cause a bareshaft-tuned bow to still produce different broadhead and field point POI's. An arrow spinner is a worthwhile investment to check overall arrow concentricity.

 

[MT257]

In the photo your bareshaft is left of the fletched shaft (and pretty much even vertically), which would suggest twisting the right yoke/untwisting the left yoke or shifting the rest to the left.

A broadhead hitting below a field point is equivalent to a bareshaft hitting below a fletched shaft and a nock high paper tear, which would suggest raising the rest, lowering the nocking point, or adjusting cam timing.

Like @Billy Goat said, broadheads hitting with field points is your ultimate goal. If you don't mind a little more wear and tear on your target, you can skip the other methods and go straight to broadhead tuning. The only thing you might discover via bareshaft tuning that broadhead tuning might not explicitly reveal is vane contact (which I don't think is an issue for you given how close your bareshaft and fletched shaft are hitting in that photo). Shaft-insert-head/point alignment is an important factor in broadhead tuning, and lack of concentricity between components could cause a bareshaft-tuned bow to still produce different broadhead and field point POI's. An arrow spinner is a worthwhile investment to check overall arrow concentricity.

I will throw them on the arrow spinner. I think I will add another twist to the right and see how it goes. I understood this was an indepth process, but now that I have a press makes it that much less of a pain of trying to go into a shop that may or may not be open when needed. Appreciate everyones input that has commented thus far.

 

[Billy Goat]

Make sure you are tuning with multiple arrows/heads. Using only one arrow and broadhead, or one bareshaft might not show the whole story. Like stated an arrow spinner helps, but nocks can cause odd things too.

I use two fp's and two bareshafts or two broadheads. Just to get a larger sample size. Make sure you are consistent, shoot twice before or after adjustments to confirm if need be.

I also keep a notebook of what adjustments I'm making, it's easy for me to confuse myself. Or you might find it was an issue such as fletching contact that was causing everything and you need to get back to your starting point. Knowing how many twists you added or subtracted, or having a picture of your rest and alignment marks where you started can be beneficial.