Rifles stock refinishing / recoil pad question. A-Bolt II

[Panhandler80]

So, after the purchase of a new scope, I’ve decided to refinish the stock of my 2002 A Bolt II in 270wsm. Not sure how much barrel life it has left, but it’s still shooting well, so I suppose it’s worth it. I’m guessing between 300 and 400 down the tube. Would like to think I could get 1,000 out of it. Have never gotten it super hot with quick fire, and have only shot off shelf ammunition.

Anyway, my question are these:

1. How does one remove this recoil pad? No screws in back like you sometimes see. Heat gun? EDIT: Quick google search says screws are there, just covered up with the rubber. Still curious about #4 below.

2. Is this black strip between wood and rubber a decal, or painted wood?

3. If pad on there with adhesive, what is it? Would like use same for reapplication?

4. Can you sand this rubber? I’ve read that you really shouldn’t sand stock with pad removed because you lose hard edges.., meaning butt of stock might get rounded and not match up with recoil pad. Be nice to leave it on, but don’t want finish stripper to mess it (or black strip) up, or sanding to scuff / burr. Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Valumpessa]

I replaced the recoil pad on an old Weatherby recently. There should be 2 screws hidden in the rubber. Mine was also glued to the stock end with a thick layer of epoxy. After cutting off the pad I spent hours sanding all the epoxy off down to the black strip. Used a block sander to ensure I maintained a flat surface and sharp edges. Then bought a Pacmayr grind-to-fit pad for replacement. It was a long process but I enjoyed it! Also had all the old shiny varnish stripped off and refinished with tung oil.

 

[Panhandler80]

I replaced the recoil pad on an old Weatherby recently. There should be 2 screws hidden in the rubber. Mine was also glued to the stock end with a thick layer of epoxy. After cutting off the pad I spent hours sanding all the epoxy off down to the black strip. Used a block sander to ensure I maintained a flat surface and sharp edges. Then bought a Pacmayr grind-to-fit pad for replacement. It was a long process but I enjoyed it! Also had all the old shiny varnish stripped off and refinished with tung oil.
View attachment 740966

Looks good! Was your black strip a decal, or paint?

 

[Valumpessa]

It's some sort of composite. Solid all the way through, not just a surface decal. I thought about cutting it off too and sanding down to the bare wood but was afraid I'd mess it up.

 

[Panhandler80]

It's some sort of composite. Solid all the way through, not just a surface decal. I thought about cutting it off too and sanding down to the bare wood but was afraid I'd mess it up.

Hopefully I haven't bitten off more than I can chew. Dropped off metal parts yesterday for cerakote, and then yesterday evening got some stripper on stock. Checked on it this morning and it looked pretty bubbly. Will see how things have progressed this afternoon when I put a putty knife to it.

 

[Valumpessa]

Sounds promising! I wasn't even able to get to that point. Those old Weatherby's have a seriously thick coat of clear varnish and the krud kutter stuff I was using just wouldn't penetrate. Gave up and shipped it to a gunsmith to strip it down to bare wood.

What kind of stripper/cutter did you use?

 

[Panhandler80]

Sounds promising! I wasn't even able to get to that point. Those old Weatherby's have a seriously thick coat of clear varnish and the krud kutter stuff I was using just wouldn't penetrate. Gave up and shipped it to a gunsmith to strip it down to bare wood.

What kind of stripper/cutter did you use?

Trying this stuff. It's a gel, and then I'm hoping the wrap and duration of sit will help.

Citristrip 1 qt. Safer Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel Non-NMP QCSG801 - The Home Depot

For even the newest DIY'er, CITRISTRIP is the effective brand of removers that has a fresh citrus scent. Use CITRISTRIP Paint & Varnish Stripping Gel to remove dried latex and oil-based paint, varnish,

www.homedepot.com

This stock also has a thick clear coat that appears to be polyurethane. May take a few applications. Good news is that gunsmith said 2 months to get cerakote parts back, so i've got plenty of time!

 

[Valumpessa]

That's great... looking forward to updates!

 

[180ls1]

The holes are in there. I replaced the recoil pad on my 270 a bolt with a limbsaver. It was a massive upgrade.

 

[Panhandler80]

Basically, I’ve gotta learn to have the patient

 

[Macintosh]

Yep, you have it. Brownings often use an epoxy finish, not a varnish, so its sometimes notoriously hard to strip. I had a decent side gig refinishing and checkering stocks for a while, and always charged double for those epoxy finsihes, because its easily 3x the work compared to an actual varnish or poly finish.
looks like you have the plastic wrap already, that’ll help. Also, you can take a super-rough scotch bright pad to it, which will put fewer dents into the wood than a putty knife will. Make sure to get ALL the spots of old finish off, if you dont it’ll be visible as a glossier spot under the new finish you put on.
When you get to sanding, go easy and just be real careful of the checkering and any edges, and always use a backer of some sort so you don’t round the edges or make divots. You can use a stiff nylon bristle brush on the checkering to get the gunk out. I can’t tell if you got it already, but the recoil pad should have two screws in it, there is likely a tiny razor cut in the rubber for each—put a dab of oil on the tip of a #2 phillips and it should push right in and you can unscrew the pad. The pads are generally sandable, although it helps to have very sharp grit paper, and some pads do better with a power sander. The shiny part of the pad is just the plastic spacer that forms the base of the pad.
Some of those stocks are stained, so when you cut through the stain unevenly while sanding can make your refinish a bit harder. Post if you run into trouble and Im sure theres a few folks who can help.

 

[Panhandler80]

Yep, you have it. Brownings often use an epoxy finish, not a varnish, so its sometimes notoriously hard to strip. I had a decent side gig refinishing and checkering stocks for a while, and always charged double for those epoxy finsihes, because its easily 3x the work compared to an actual varnish or poly finish.
looks like you have the plastic wrap already, that’ll help. Also, you can take a super-rough scotch bright pad to it, which will put fewer dents into the wood than a putty knife will. Make sure to get ALL the spots of old finish off, if you dont it’ll be visible as a glossier spot under the new finish you put on.
When you get to sanding, go easy and just be real careful of the checkering and any edges, and always use a backer of some sort so you don’t round the edges or make divots. You can use a stiff nylon bristle brush on the checkering to get the gunk out. I can’t tell if you got it already, but the recoil pad should have two screws in it, there is likely a tiny razor cut in the rubber for each—put a dab of oil on the tip of a #2 phillips and it should push right in and you can unscrew the pad. The pads are generally sandable, although it helps to have very sharp grit paper, and some pads do better with a power sander. The shiny part of the pad is just the plastic spacer that forms the base of the pad.
Some of those stocks are stained, so when you cut through the stain unevenly while sanding can make your refinish a bit harder. Post if you run into trouble and Im sure theres a few folks who can help.

Just got home from the beach. I’m pretty sunburned and quite a few beers. About ti go remove the cellophane and see what belong dealing with. This will be round two of chemical peel.

 

[Panhandler80]

Getting there. One more chemical peel and then a little bit more scraping tomorrow I think I’ll be ready for sanding.

 

[Panhandler80]

Yep, you have it. Brownings often use an epoxy finish, not a varnish, so its sometimes notoriously hard to strip. I had a decent side gig refinishing and checkering stocks for a while, and always charged double for those epoxy finsihes, because its easily 3x the work compared to an actual varnish or poly finish.
looks like you have the plastic wrap already, that’ll help. Also, you can take a super-rough scotch bright pad to it, which will put fewer dents into the wood than a putty knife will. Make sure to get ALL the spots of old finish off, if you dont it’ll be visible as a glossier spot under the new finish you put on.
When you get to sanding, go easy and just be real careful of the checkering and any edges, and always use a backer of some sort so you don’t round the edges or make divots. You can use a stiff nylon bristle brush on the checkering to get the gunk out. I can’t tell if you got it already, but the recoil pad should have two screws in it, there is likely a tiny razor cut in the rubber for each—put a dab of oil on the tip of a #2 phillips and it should push right in and you can unscrew the pad. The pads are generally sandable, although it helps to have very sharp grit paper, and some pads do better with a power sander. The shiny part of the pad is just the plastic spacer that forms the base of the pad.
Some of those stocks are stained, so when you cut through the stain unevenly while sanding can make your refinish a bit harder. Post if you run into trouble and Im sure theres a few folks who can help.

Good info. Thank you.

 

[Valumpessa]

Wow, looking good!

 

[Panhandler80]

Wow, looking

Only time will tell. I’m dying to go check it out again.

 

[Panhandler80]

Yep, you have it. Brownings often use an epoxy finish, not a varnish, so its sometimes notoriously hard to strip. I had a decent side gig refinishing and checkering stocks for a while, and always charged double for those epoxy finsihes, because its easily 3x the work compared to an actual varnish or poly finish.
looks like you have the plastic wrap already, that’ll help. Also, you can take a super-rough scotch bright pad to it, which will put fewer dents into the wood than a putty knife will. Make sure to get ALL the spots of old finish off, if you dont it’ll be visible as a glossier spot under the new finish you put on.
When you get to sanding, go easy and just be real careful of the checkering and any edges, and always use a backer of some sort so you don’t round the edges or make divots. You can use a stiff nylon bristle brush on the checkering to get the gunk out. I can’t tell if you got it already, but the recoil pad should have two screws in it, there is likely a tiny razor cut in the rubber for each—put a dab of oil on the tip of a #2 phillips and it should push right in and you can unscrew the pad. The pads are generally sandable, although it helps to have very sharp grit paper, and some pads do better with a power sander. The shiny part of the pad is just the plastic spacer that forms the base of the pad.
Some of those stocks are stained, so when you cut through the stain unevenly while sanding can make your refinish a bit harder. Post if you run into trouble and Im sure theres a few folks who can help.

Thanks man. Really good advice and I think it’s kind of what I’ve been doing, but I appreciate to read where my head has been.

 

[Scottf270]

If it doesn't work out, Midwest Gun Works may have a new stock for sale.

 

[Panhandler80]

If it doesn't work out, Midwest Gun Works may have a new stock for sale.

Hopefully, I can get it done. We shall see.

 

[Panhandler80]

About to tape off checkering and then get to sanding.