Rifle scope for Elk Hunt

Thanks for the replies. I shot my elk this year at 185 yards and last year's was at 375. The 5-30 has worked well as I am getting more into sitting/glassing and less spot/stalk for elk. My 2nd guessing on the 5-30 came from tracking my elk this year. It was thick timber and I was no doubt at a disadvantage with the lowest power being 5x. It's why I am thinking of changing to the 2-16x50, 2nd focal plane, with an illuminated reticle. Even the 3.5-28x50 would be significantly better.
 
Where I hunt (key words) 6 is low enough. My style is spot and stalk... seeing elk before they see me. But I don’t often shoot from where I’m set up. I have to move in for a shot. One thing I don’t do is sneak through bedding areas trying to see and shoot a bull before he sees me. That can send them into the next county. Even when I’m sneaking I know the elk are there so if Im going as slow as I should be (other key words) then I don’t need 3-4 power.

I use a Leupold Mark 4 in 6.5-20. I’ve shot elk as close as 60 yards without a problem. I think it’s more important in elk country to be prepared for longer shots. Even at 200-300 yards 20 power is nice and if you someday plan to be shooting out past 350 you’ll be glad to have it.

I listed the Leupold in the optics classifieds yesterday. I want more magnification on the top end for shots 800-1000 yards. So I’m going to bump up to the Mark 5 7-35x56.

My hunting area is semi open and there are lots of places to sit where a bull is about guaranteed if you can shoot to 800 yards. Even if have to close the distance to get a shot the fact that I know they are there means I’m prepared so 6.5 or 7 power works for me.
 
I think that your questions are on the right track when discussing scope power and all the animals you listed. In my experience for an all around hunting scope I like the 2 to 3.5 power on the lower end. Next I consider scope size, weight and balance before I consider upper power. I have several long range scopes with low power of 5-6 power and have found them very limiting when hunting in thick cover especially when animals are moving around.
 
When i asked the same wuestion a while back i got a lot of responses for the bushnell lrhs 3-18
I have not been disappointed with this scope so far. They are a discontinued model, so buying one used can be difficult, but can be done.
There is a similar model they just recently discontinued called the lrts, but the lrhs is just as good and i believe a few less ounces.
 
Interesting thread. I too was looking to put a 6-24 on a 300WM, sounds like the general census is that’s it’s too much magnification for shots under 200 or 300?
 
I dont think it is too much mag for anything under 200 as long as the shot isnt in timber. When you get in the trees too much then the higher mag is a detriment, but in semi-open country a 200 yard shot at 6X is almost not enough.
I was very happy i had my 18X at 300 yards this year. Was it neccessary? No. Was it helpful, yes. Had i been in timber theres no 300 yard shot tho. Most of those shots are being taken around archery distances or just slightly beyond. So having a lower bottom than 6X can he preferred for an all around scope, but if you know your hunting area and know you wont be shooting in timber...
 
Glassing with your scope, really classy. YOU are the reason everyone should wear orange from head to toe
Time to resurrect an old thread :-) I have a 5-30x50 on my 300wm and think it is ideal for a glassing/spotting rig for the type of elk hunting I do here in Idaho. I will be going to Colorado for the first time elk hunting this next year and am questioning if I shouldn't swap out the scope for a lower magnification scope. Maybe a 2-16x50? I run a 1.7-13.3x42 on my 30-06 for mule deer. My hunt in CO will be a backcountry pack in.
I will be putting a lot of time at the range shooting from all positions prior to going so I'd like to put the time in behind the scope that will be best suited for Colorado. BTW, I use 10x42 binos and have a 20-60x80 spotter for glassing so don't need the high power on the scope.

Would you swap out or use the 5-30? The weight of the 5-30 is actually less than the new 2-16 but is an inch longer. What are your thoughts?
 
Glassing with your scope, really classy. YOU are the reason everyone should wear orange from head to toe
Just when I think this forum is full of great people you pop up with a condescending comment. Let me clarify for you. If I spot DEER or ELK at 500+ yards with 10x42 binos I can't always tell the size, mass, points and if it is the quality of animal I am looking for? That is why I have a spotter. If I didn't have a spotter, then having a higher magnification scope does help me to determine if it is a shooter. I already know it's an animal before I raise my rifle because I glassed it with my binos.
 
Last edited:
My apologies, carry on and Merry Christmas. Screenshot_20201225-125154_Chrome.jpg
Just when I think this forum is full of great people you pop up with a condescending comment. Let me clarify for you. If I spot DEER or ELK at 500+ yards with 10x42 binos I can't always tell the size, mass, points and if it is the quality of animal I am looking for? That is why I have a spotter. If I didn't have a spotter, then having a higher magnification scope does help me to determine if it is a shooter. I already know it's an animal before I raise my rifle because I glassed it with my binos.
 
I dont think it is too much mag for anything under 200 as long as the shot isnt in timber. When you get in the trees too much then the higher mag is a detriment, but in semi-open country a 200 yard shot at 6X is almost not enough.
I was very happy i had my 18X at 300 yards this year. Was it neccessary? No. Was it helpful, yes. Had i been in timber theres no 300 yard shot tho. Most of those shots are being taken around archery distances or just slightly beyond. So having a lower bottom than 6X can he preferred for an all around scope, but if you know your hunting area and know you wont be shooting in timber...
Not planning on still hunting thru timber much, thanks for the help!
 
My cousin killed his bull this year at 40 yards with NF NXS 5.5-22. shots vary for us from 20 yards up to 1000. I killed mine at 480 yards. Our family runs essentially identical rifles with identical scopes. The NXS is bulletproof and works anywhere you need it to. My uncles rifle (Lane CF 28N) fell off his tw200 going about 20mph This year. We went and shot it, still dead on.
I slid/fell down a rock chute a few years ago and dropped my rifle. Same results, still dead on.
I’ll pack the extra weight knowing I won’t have a scope failure 7 miles in the backcountry. Everyone has their way, but this has worked for us.
 
My cousin killed his bull this year at 40 yards with NF NXS 5.5-22. shots vary for us from 20 yards up to 1000. I killed mine at 480 yards. Our family runs essentially identical rifles with identical scopes. The NXS is bulletproof and works anywhere you need it to. My uncles rifle (Lane CF 28N) fell off his tw200 going about 20mph This year. We went and shot it, still dead on.
I slid/fell down a rock chute a few years ago and dropped my rifle. Same results, still dead on.
I’ll pack the extra weight knowing I won’t have a scope failure 7 miles in the backcountry. Everyone has their way, but this has worked for us.
That’s how I feel about my Leupold Mark 4s. I need a scope I can beat up and still count on.

You have to remember that some of us bought our scopes before companies like Vortex and Night Force even existed. But even if I didn’t I’ve always been partial to their American made scopes and killer unconditional lifetime warranty. I’ve always been into hunting for the long haul and so barely even glance at the price of a scope. There are a few things that can make or break an elk hunt and a scope is definitely one of them. As far as which particular magnification is best would be completely based on where you hunt.

Even if I’m in timber I almost always have at least a 100 yard shot and yes I’ve killed several bulls closer than that. I’m just not one to spend time sneaking through thicker timber. Being over powered is terrible no doubt. But if you stay calm and have at least a little time 6 power is ok in my kind of timber. But you can’t compensate for being under powered at longer distances no matter how long you have. Elk country is big and I can’t imagine anyone not seeing bulls further away than they can shoot. So I’ll deal with a higher low end to be prepared to be able to kill elk as far away as I can.
 
Last edited:
I am a 3-9x50 in timber and a 4-12x50 on the plains.

I do go with illuminated reticles tho.
 
I ended up selling my Swarovski Z6i 5-30P 4A-i and went with the Z8i 2-16 on my 300win. Looking forward to putting it to good use this upcoming hunting season. The Swaro BTF turret has four set-points vs the three of the BT on my old Z6i. I plan to set it up with a zero at 200 and set-points of 300, 400, 500, and 600. I haven't yet needed to take a shot beyond 500 yards but my upcoming Colorado hunt may prove different.
 
Do you plan on shooting at long range for a few weeks to learn your rifle and how it performs? Do you have 60+ rounds available? Have you ever hunted at long distance before? I only ask all this because this long range hunting thing had become a fad that not many people know how to properly do. I opt for hunting and not spotting.
 
I agree 100% re: long range fad. There is a lot to shooting proficiently at long distances. I've been an avid hunter my entire life (mainly archery hunting) and have never shot big game over 350 yards (which was a long way in my book).
 
Back
Top