Rifle scope for antelope and deer

lemmerjj

FNG
Joined
Mar 4, 2020
Location
Nebraska
Looking to get a new scope for my 243 to go Antelope hunting this fall. Looking to see what people use for an magnification and objective. I'm torn between 2.5-15's by 44 or 50, preferable under the $700. Looking at shots 500 and under will also use for deer. I'm looking at Athlon Midas, Leupold VX3hd, Burris Veracity, and Vortex Viper HS, but am open to other suggestions. Cross posted in Antelope as well.
 
I would buy a SWFA 3-9 or 3-15 for that price range. Bombproof and you can dial it. The reticles are simple and clean.

Otherwise, I would absolutely stay away from the Vortex HS if it is the one that looks like the old PST gen 1. That is a really bad design and has a high failure rate. Maybe the Diamondback Tactical or the new Strike Eagle Tactical if you want Vortex. Those have decent reputation along with the Midas Tac.

I did not like the glass quality on a VX3 I picked up compared to the SWFA.

I feel like you get better glass with smaller objectives than larger at that price range. Quality of glass matters more than objective size IMO.

I think you could find a used Ares BTR for that price range in the 4-20 and have a much better scope. You have the warranty, so no risk getting used. The same goes for SWFA, I bought a used scope, it was messed up so I sent it in and they sent me a new one.
 
At $700, I'd second going used. I like the recommendation of the Athlon Ares and would also add a used Leopold HD-5 3-15x44 or Meopta Meostar R1. Regarding the Midas Tac, I have no first hand experience with that one, but do know one guy that uses one at our club and all he has ever said about it, is that it tracks well.
 
I would not go with a max power over 12 unless you also intend to use the .243 for much smaller targets than antelope. My 6mm Rem has a 4x16 and finding an antelope at 400 yds in the scope set at 16 was a problem. I had time and found the target animal but if a follow-up shot had been required I would have been dialing down and back up. Not ideal.
 
I would suggest a SWFA 3-9 or 3-15 for that price range. It's Bombproof and you can dial it. The reticles are clean and simple. Or a Zeiss conquest V4 if you have like 80 more bucks to spare.
 
I would suggest a SWFA 3-9 or 3-15 for that price range. It's Bombproof and you can dial it. The reticles are clean and simple. Or a Zeiss conquest V4 if you have like 80 more bucks to spare.
I would not recommend an SWFA. They are rarely in stock and have been on back order for a long time. There is no telling when one will be available.
 
I would buy a SWFA 3-9 or 3-15 for that price range. Bombproof and you can dial it. The reticles are simple and clean.

Otherwise, I would absolutely stay away from the Vortex HS if it is the one that looks like the old PST gen 1. That is a really bad design and has a high failure rate. Maybe the Diamondback Tactical or the new Strike Eagle Tactical if you want Vortex. Those have decent reputation along with the Midas Tac.

I did not like the glass quality on a VX3 I picked up compared to the SWFA.

I feel like you get better glass with smaller objectives than larger at that price range. Quality of glass matters more than objective size IMO.

I think you could find a used Ares BTR for that price range in the 4-20 and have a much better scope. You have the warranty, so no risk getting used. The same goes for SWFA, I bought a used scope, it was messed up so I sent it in and they sent me a new one.
We have hunted a lot of years in hard country with PST Gen 1’s and HS-Ts. They are awesome scopes for the price. You can find killer deals on them used.
 
I would not go with a max power over 12 unless you also intend to use the .243 for much smaller targets than antelope. My 6mm Rem has a 4x16 and finding an antelope at 400 yds in the scope set at 16 was a problem. I had time and found the target animal but if a follow-up shot had been required I would have been dialing down and back up. Not ideal.
There is nothing forcing you to pull the trigger on 16x...my scope goes from 4-24 and I adjust my magnification while looking through the scope until it looks good. That usually puts me between 12 and 15x.

I am also sitting here trying to figure out why you are trying to find game on 16x in your scope...thats the whole purpose of a variable power scope isnt it? Keep it dialed at 4x find game in your scope, increase magnification for the shot.
 
There is nothing forcing you to pull the trigger on 16x...my scope goes from 4-24 and I adjust my magnification while looking through the scope until it looks good. That usually puts me between 12 and 15x.

I am also sitting here trying to figure out why you are trying to find game on 16x in your scope...thats the whole purpose of a variable power scope isnt it? Keep it dialed at 4x find game in your scope, increase magnification for the shot.
When you are using a 2nd focal plane scope with a BDC reticle the subtensions only work at one magnification, usually the max. By "work" I mean the reticle MOA data for each subtension is accurate. So, for long shots you want to be on the max. Like you said, you don't need to be on max for your first shot. Dial down then back up, but it's a problem for follow-up shots due to the time it takes.
 
When you are using a 2nd focal plane scope with a BDC reticle the subtensions only work at one magnification, usually the max. By "work" I mean the reticle MOA data for each subtension is accurate. So, for long shots you want to be on the max. Like you said, you don't need to be on max for your first shot. Dial down then back up, but it's a problem for follow-up shots due to the time it takes.


Max Power x Subtend = Subtend value at current power.
Current Power


Shooting a 16x scope at 8x? your subtends are worth twice as much as they were. I'm used to shooting a mil reticle in SFP, so if you know your dope you can shoot the subtends.
 
When you are using a 2nd focal plane scope with a BDC reticle the subtensions only work at one magnification, usually the max. By "work" I mean the reticle MOA data for each subtension is accurate. So, for long shots you want to be on the max. Like you said, you don't need to be on max for your first shot. Dial down then back up, but it's a problem for follow-up shots due to the time it takes.
I haven’t used holdovers for years - I spin a turret. Good point on the SFP holdover problem.
 
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