Resurrecting a Tikka

[Spindrift]

So I've decided I'd like to resurrect my first love, a ~2011 stainless T3 in 300WM. I've killed many an elk and mule deer with it and since moved on to a Cross 6.5CM amongst others. But I miss that Tikka. It shot incredibly consistently with my Swift hand loads and I never felt bad about beating it up. It was the definition of an efficient tool.

First off, the barrel is smoked, so I was thinking of adding a Proof carbon sendero. Does anyone know if the current Proof T3X barrels would work with the prior generation T3?

Next, I have a nice McMillan on it. Challenge there is that the Proof barrel would ostensibly be larger in diameter, requiring a bit of Dremel work. Wondering if this can be DIYed or am I asking for trouble here?

Finally, I would DIY some side cup love as I could never go back to carrying a rifle with the regular studs on the bottom of the hand guard and stock.

Any help, advise and/or experience would be appreciated.

The alternative would be to start from scratch but that's no fun and I love the history (and custom trigger job) I have with this rifle.


Thanks



Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

 

[ElPollo]

T3x barrels work on T3 actions. I used a McGowan T3x barrel on a T3 a few years ago.

 

[HandgunHTR]

T3x barrels work on T3 actions. I used a McGowan T3x barrel on a T3 a few years ago.

Yep. That being said, I would skip the Proof carbon and go with a Preferred taperless 0.750” or a #3 contour from one of the other barrel makers. Flute it to reduce the weight if that is your reason to go carbon. If the carbon is for the cool factor, skip it as you may just end up with a cool looking barrel that you end up chasing.

Plus, it will be less sanding. skip the dremel for barrel channels as well. Sand paper on a dowel will give you much more consistent results.

 

[Harvey_NW]

If the only reason you're set on a Proof Carbon is aesthetics, I get it. Opening up a barrel channel isn't too difficult with some sandpaper and a socket. But if you're not, I'd just rebarrel it with a quality steel. Especially if you want to keep the nostalgia of it being an efficient tool, carbon gets banged up fairly easy and doesn't offer any benefit over steel, even in the weight department. Resin is a heat sink, and your odds of getting a lemon are higher.

On the cheap end you can get a prefit in a contour of your choice spun up for like $500 from a couple different places, I've had good luck with Preferred Barrels and have 2 more of their blanks currently at a gunsmith. If budget isn't a limiting factor, grab one of the well known cut rifled mfgs and send it to a reputable gunsmith. Lots of options.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Yep. That being said, I would skip the Proof carbon and go with a Preferred taperless 0.750” or a #3 contour from one of the other barrel makers. Flute it to reduce the weight if that is your reason to go carbon. If the carbon is for the cool factor, skip it as you may just end up with a cool looking barrel that you end up chasing.

Plus, it will be less sanding. skip the dremel for barrel channels as well. Sand paper on a dowel will give you much more consistent results.

Damn, you got me by like half a second lol

 

[ElPollo]

Agreed on steel over carbon.

 

[IrkedCitizen]

Are you wanting to keep it a 300wm or do a different magnum?

T3 has a smaller ejection port than the T3X. That's the major difference

 

[Bowfinn]

Here is something to watch if you are getting a carbon barrel to “save weight” or because “it’s stiffer”.

 

[Castle Rock]

That is crying out “ I want to be a 6 UM with a steel barrel”

 

[atmat]

First off, the barrel is smoked

Is something wrong with the barrel, or did you just shoot it out?

Most hunters I know don’t shoot out a 300wm barrel.

 

[Spindrift]

Thanks y'all.

1. Yes I'm a hunter but I also have a long range shooting range in the back yard, so that barrel has seen a LOT of rounds.

2. Thank you guys for the carbon vs steel. I live in the Rockies so weight is key. I also run a suppressor. I have no loyalty to any particular barrel set up.

3. Thanks for the confirmation on T3X fitment.

Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

 

[Mike D Texas]

Here is something to watch if you are getting a carbon barrel to “save weight” or because “it’s stiffer”.

I watched that video. The results were not near what I expected. The max difference in deflection was .003” with I believe the HCA barrel being only .001?

 

[Schmo]

So I've decided I'd like to resurrect my first love, a ~2011 stainless T3 in 300WM. I've killed many an elk and mule deer with it and since moved on to a Cross 6.5CM amongst others. But I miss that Tikka. It shot incredibly consistently with my Swift hand loads and I never felt bad about beating it up. It was the definition of an efficient tool.

First off, the barrel is smoked, so I was thinking of adding a Proof carbon sendero. Does anyone know if the current Proof T3X barrels would work with the prior generation T3?

Next, I have a nice McMillan on it. Challenge there is that the Proof barrel would ostensibly be larger in diameter, requiring a bit of Dremel work. Wondering if this can be DIYed or am I asking for trouble here?

Finally, I would DIY some side cup love as I could never go back to carrying a rifle with the regular studs on the bottom of the hand guard and stock.

Any help, advise and/or experience would be appreciated.

The alternative would be to start from scratch but that's no fun and I love the history (and custom trigger job) I have with this rifle.


Thanks



Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

I’ll echo what the others have already said. Go with a steel barrel instead of carbon. You’ll come out cheaper, and be lighter, and have higher odds of having a tack driver. With PBB, you can get a prefit in the $500 range. PVA prefits always seem to hammer, and those I’ll run you in the $700 range.

On another note, are you dead set on 300WM, or would you consider another cartridge? There’s lots of reading here about absolutely fantastic terminal results from stuff smaller than a 30 cal magnum. You don’t have to make the decision fast, but you might do some reading and let it soak in. A 6.5 PRC would be phenomenal for all North American hunting, and performs beautifully at long distance target shooting with 147 ELD-M, 153 A-Tip, and 156 EOL. That’s still more recoil than I like, since I’m a recoil wimp. There are hundreds of pages on threads here concerning high lethality of 22 cal, 6mm, and 6.5 cartridges. Some great podcasts to listen to as well.

I don’t mention this to force you into something you don’t want. However, I bring it up because it’s valid, and there’s a mountain of real data to be considered.

 

[wind gypsy]

I watched that video. The results were not near what I expected. The max difference in deflection was .003” with I believe the HCA barrel being only .001?

steel barrels were 5 and 6-7 thou and carbon were closer to 8 thou if I recall. So basically based on which barrels, a guy could say the results indicated the carbon barrels actually had roughly 50% MORE deflection than the similar weighted steel barres.

Now I believe that people think about how stiff a barrel is way too damn much but still, to pay $300 premium for less stiffness sends these kinds of vibes to me:

 

[Smithb9841]

One thing noone mentioned If you are happy with a tikka barrel and yours is just shot out,
you can get a factory tikka take off barrel really cheap and save a few hundred dollars.

J&A outdoors has 300WM in stock and others if you wanted to try something different. Even have factory fluted barrels too.

Tikka Factory Barrels -

Tikka Factory Barrels. Available in a variety of calibers, twist rates and lengths. Stainless steel, chromoly blued - limited availability, get yours TODAY!

jaoutdoors.com

 

[wind gypsy]

One thing noone mentioned If you are happy with a tikka barrel and yours is just shot out,
you can get a factory tikka take off barrel really cheap and save a few hundred dollars.

J&A outdoors has 300WM in stock and others if you wanted to try something different. Even have factory fluted barrels too.

Tikka Factory Barrels -

Tikka Factory Barrels. Available in a variety of calibers, twist rates and lengths. Stainless steel, chromoly blued - limited availability, get yours TODAY!

jaoutdoors.com

Hey, good point.

I’ve got a stainless take off 300 WM superlite barrel you can have for cheap. Like probably under $100 shipped cheap.

 

[Smithb9841]

Hey, good point.

I’ve got a stainless take off 300 WM superlite barrel you can have for cheap. Like probably under $100 shipped cheap.

Yea tbh if I had to do it over again I think I would go the take off route over a carbon prefit.

Only down side is I hear so many guys claim tikka barrels are “slow” compared to others. I don’t know if that’s true or not but hear a lot of guys claim it

 

[Spindrift]

Problem with original barrel is I believe it would require an adapter to suit a 5/8 suppressor. I believe they're too skinny.

Regarding calibers, that's an interesting question. I've always enjoyed the 300WM because in my experience (anecdotal), I've never seen any question marks. I've had deer wiggle a lot more after a 6.5 lung shot than that .300 but I recognize that's a small data set and totally anecdotal. I've never shit elk with anything smaller than .30 caliber. I'm definitely not arguing either way, just sharing my experience.

The recoil doesn't bother me on a .300, especially suppressed, and I have all the reloading stuff already, so...I guess it's a "not broken" sentiment.

So I guess I'm looking for a steel barrel, relatively lightweight and suppressor friendly. I'm willing to pony up for a proven brand as this sure beats buying a new rifle which is what I was originally budgeting for. Any recs are definitely welcome. This thread is definitely getting me stoked on this direction!



Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

 

[Spindrift]

Are you wanting to keep it a 300wm or do a different magnum?

T3 has a smaller ejection port than the T3X. That's the major difference

I didn't know this.

Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

 

[Marbles]

Problem with original barrel is I believe it would require an adapter to suit a 5/8 suppressor. I believe they're too skinny.

You can have it threaded 5/8 with a collar installed for adequate shoulder.

Adapters really aren't that big a deal. I've used Precision Armament adapters on 3 different barrels so far.