Reloading sequence

Dcrafton

WKR
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Aug 10, 2016
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Morgan utah
This may not be the place to ask this but,
To start with, I’ve been reloading for years. I’m just a some tools to my reloading.
Here’s my question, in what order do you or would you proceed with case prep to setting the primmer. Here is my list below in no order yet. All after you have fired the brass. I understand that not all listed is needed all the time, but in what order would you go to include all that is listed?

1. Wet tumble (stainless steel media)
2. Dry tumble
3. Size/deprime
4. Anneal
5. Trim case
6. Clean neck (debur)
7. Clean primer pockets
8. Clean flash hole

Thanks..



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Last edited:
Other than Annealing (don't have a machine) my process is the same
 
We talking just general shooting or more serious loads?

lapua brass is given

For general shooting

Run it into a collet neck die
Prime
Drop powder from powder measure
Seat bullet into the lands

go shoot.

lubing, tumbling, annealing, trimming, case cleanup is for the birds and or people with heaps of patience
 
Dry tumble cuz I like it shiny and it helps show any splits.
Visually inspect for problems, ie splitting or bulges.
If brass has been reloaded multiple times spot check lengths, trim as needed.
Deprime, full length size, prime and drop powder.
Dump powder in scale cup and weigh, cuz I’m OCD about powder charge.
Seat bullet, box up and go shoot so I can do it all over.
 
I dry tumble only, anneal before sizing, and deprime in a separate stage first thing. Summary:

* deprime
* tumble (dry, rice)
* anneal
* size
* trim as needed
* chamfer/deburr

Then it's off to prime, charge, seat, and shoot.
 
1. Deprime
2. Wet tumble
3. Throw in the dehydrator
4. Clean/deburr flash hole
5. Clean primer pocket
6. Lube
8. Size
9. Trim
10. Deburr
11. Turn necks
12. Size again (don’t know if this matters but I figure it can’t hurt since the trimmer pilot and neck turning pilots have been in the necks)
13. Anneal ( drill, socket, propane torch)
14. Prime
15. Powder charge
16. Seat bullet ( seating a little bit then turning the shell 1/4 turn and repeating until fully seated)
17. Check bullet runout on homemade concentricuty gauge.
18. Shoot.
 
I dry tumble only, anneal before sizing, and deprime in a separate stage first thing. Summary:

* deprime
* tumble (dry, rice)
* anneal
* size
* trim as needed
* chamfer/deburr

Then it's off to prime, charge, seat, and shoot.

So do you use a separate de-primer, mine is my sizing die.


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When starting with new brass, size them, trim to shortest case length, deburr, prime and load. After firing,

1. Size/deprime
2. Prime
3. Powder
4. Bullet
5. Shoot more

Unless they are caked with mud, no need to tumble. All the other stuff is fluff. 99% of rifles and shooters cant shoot the difference they make. Just my .02 based of my experience.
 
Question for everyone here on Annealing as I see some different opinions on before/after sizing. (I don't anneal, yet anyways)

I thought the idea was that you do it before sizing to prevent any springback, and that there's also a small potential of changing case neck diameter?
 
I dry tumble only, anneal before sizing, and deprime in a separate stage first thing. Summary:

* deprime
* tumble (dry, rice)
* anneal
* size
* trim as needed
* chamfer/deburr

Then it's off to prime, charge, seat, and shoot.
This is the order I would suggest also. Annealing can change the neck a little. I feel it is best to size after annealing.
 
1.Tumble
2. Resize
3. Trim, chamfer, debur, etc
4. Tumble to get the copper shavings and lube off - if I want em squeaky clean or my media is dirty I'll put them in the ultrasonic
5. Prime and load
 
Universal deprime
Anneal (every time or every other depending on the caliber or rifle)
SS wet tumble
Dehydrator
Lube and size
Trim
VLD Chamfer/debur
Debur flash hole for new and second firing
Uniform primer pocket new and check/clean second firing on
Brass brush inside necks
Dry tumble to remove lube and and brass shavings
Prime and load
 
Few Key Points:
Tumble brass with dry media.
Debur the flashholes and uniform the primer pockets. Both are a one time process.
I use the 21st Century Priming Tool and Primer Pocket Uniformer. Primer Seating Depth control is within 0.001. I can't say enough about the 21st Century Priming Tool.
I like the Lee Universal Depriming Die.
 
I have used Krazy Kloth for cleaning brass and it works really well. Saves a ton of time.
 
Question for everyone here on Annealing as I see some different opinions on before/after sizing. (I don't anneal, yet anyways)

I thought the idea was that you do it before sizing to prevent any springback, and that there's also a small potential of changing case neck diameter?

Your thoughts align with how I do it and the reason why Brendan.
 
This may not be the place to ask this but,
To start with, I’ve been reloading for years. I’m just a some tools to my reloading.
Here’s my question, in what order do you or would you proceed with case prep to setting the primmer. Here is my list below in no order yet. All after you have fired the brass. I understand that not all listed is needed all the time, but in what order would you go to include all that is listed?

1. Wet tumble (stainless steel media)
2. Dry tumble
3. Size/deprime
4. Anneal
5. Trim case
6. Clean neck (debur)
7. Clean primer pockets
8. Clean flash hole

Thanks..



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. Deprime
2. Clean brass (doesn't matter if wet, dry, hand wiping, etc) - cleaning primer pockets would fall into cleaning brass here, but I never do it.
3. Anneal - dont typically do this the first 3-4x firings unless brass has been work hardened more than normal
4. Size brass
5. Clean off lube - I used to wet tumble, now back to the old fashioned vibratory. To each their own.
6. Neck trimming/chamfer/debur if necessary after any tumbling is done in case mouths get dinged up tumbling. I almost always use a giraud trimmer for this, way better than doing in three stages.
7. Prime, charge, seat

I try to buy good brass that doesn't need any primer pocket uniforming or flash hole deburring.
 
Has anyone noticed a difference in group sizes when annealing before sizing vs after sizing? I have not been annealing long and never thought about where in the process to do it. Right now my groups are a little less than moa annealing after sizing.
 
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