Reloading question

[GetWestern]

Hey all got a question for all you reloaders out there. I've been working up some loads for my 300 win mag trying to get at least 1 inch group at 100 yards never been able to do that with the factory ammo I used. So far I've tried 180 gr and 165gr hornady sst bullets with IMR 4350 each loaded with variaying 60s and 70s grains of powder based on the reloading manual, couldn't get a group tighter than 2 inches with those. So I switched to 165gr nosler accubonds bullets and loaded those with RL 22 with loads in the upper 70 grains of powder still nothing better than 2 inches, I did try the nosler 165gr accubonds bullets with the IMR 4350 but those grouped awful. I'm curious to know what you guys think I should do next try another bullet? heard good things about bergers but they are expensive and i don't want to keep buying bullets if there's a better way to find accuracy or should I switch around with different powders, seating depth ect? Or any other suggestions I'm really new when it comes to reloading and the process of finding a accurate load so any advice is appreciated thanks.

 

[huntsman22]

it might not be the reloading.....Sometimes, it is something else. Hold, squeeze, rest, scope, crown, bedding, flex, you, and so forth. Can you shoot other 300's under an inch from your set-up?

 

[FURMAN]

It may not be the reloads as already stated but you did not really describe anything about what process you are using. Plucking a load out of a reloading book will VERY RARELY yield good results. To make a rifle shoot under one minute requires playing with powder charges as well as seating depth. That is assuming the rifle, shooter, and optics are capable. These days shooting one minute with most rifles and good optics is not hard.

 

[PaLuke]

As far as what you’re doing now seems to be on the right track. I don’t have a .300 but various other calibers. Just asking, but have you tried to remove the copper fouling if it has any? I just went through a situation with the action screws too tight. Just throwing out some suggestions. I’m sure someone will be along soon with more .300 experience than I have. Good luck

 

[GetWestern]

I havnt tried shooting other 300s yet with my setup and yes I've removed copper fouling.

 

[gbflyer]

Get yourself some 180gr Sierra Pro Hunters.

 

[hodgeman]

Best honest advice for a beginning reloader- buy a few boxes of factory until you find one that shoots good, then work to replicate that load- OAL, distance to lands, approximate velocity.

Just picking loads from scratch is time consuming and there's a lot of variables to sort out. When I developed my 6.5CM load, I picked up a box of Hornady Precision Hunters that shot 1/2" groups. I liked it and was able to recreate that load a whole lot easier than trying every bullet, powder, and case combination out there. The three other boxes of factory I bought got turned into empty brass during practice.

Buying factory seem counterintuitive to the hand loading process- but you can eliminate a lot of variables without winding up with dozens of types of components that just might not work for your rifle.

 

[N2TRKYS]

I've found that loading to Nosler's most accurate load, more often than not, yields great results. Good luck.

Your rifle may like 180 grain bullets better. FYI, Shooters Pro Shop has 30 cal 180 grain Partitions and Accubonds for about $15/50 right now.

 

[sodak]

Develop a system. Lots of methods out there. Change only one variable at a time. Find the accuracy nodes and tweak. Short sentences but a long process.

They are time consuming but yield results. Doing it with patience saves time in the long run.

4350 and RL22 are good powders to start with in a 300wm.




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[amassi]

You may want to get some temp stable powders as well.
My hunting buddies 300wm loves 200gr accubonds over IMR 8133 and retumbo. Both are stable and meter well.


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[codym]

I would check my gun. Make sure the action screws are tight, make sure the bases and rings are tight. I would clean the heck out of it, make sure it's not carbon and cooper fouled out. I may even swap scopes. Then I would have a good shooter try the gun. Most factory guns are capable of MOA with premium match ammo. What kind of rifle and how many rounds down the tube? What are your groups like? A shotgun spread or a couple close shots then a flyer?

 

[gumbl3]

What's your setup? Gun, twist rate, scope, trigger pull, weight, braked?
May not be the loads, I've got a factory 700 in 7 mag that shoots terrible but it's factory sporter barrel with no brake, makes a big difference even with stock and trigger upgrade

 

[mmac]

I am far from an expert, but I can share what works for me. I have 3 300 WM's. A Rem 700, Kimber 8400 and a Cooper 52. I follow the Nosler book if shooting Accubonds (which I like) and pick 3-4 loads using different powders and using the starting COAL it provides. When I see one better than the others and i like the speed etc. I then load a ladder up and down by .4 to see if Accuracy improves. I usually get something that is 1/2-3/4 in that process. I rarely have the patience or time to get to play with COAL much. A couple things mentioned. Clean it to bare metal before you start with Copper cleaner etc. Two of mine like the 200 Gr best, one the 180. Lastly, some rifles just don't shoot better. I have a Browning A Bolt that can't do better than that. I have probably shot the barrel out using every combo of bullet and powder imaginable. Hope that helps.

 

[GetWestern]

Thanks all for your input I'll definitely be trying some of these suggestions appreciate it.

 

[YZF_88]

I'm new to reloading myself. I'm getting sub moa groups with my 30-06 now and it's a pretty normal browning a-bolt.

I ponied up for a barrel mounted chronograph to expedite the process and save ammo. Did a couple ladder tests in .2 grain increments only looking at velocity. Plotted out the curve (yeah, I'm an Excel nerd now). Found three flat spots on the curves. Tested accuracy at those three spots. The fastest was all over the place and the other two were very good...for me (1.5" @ 200). Just need to get it zeroed to that load now and that'll only take a few rounds.

Some random notes:
*I'm not using premium brass. Just a batch of federal once fired from a buddy...but I've really taken my time preparing it.
*I'm using 165gr Barnes TTSX .050" off the lands.
*IMR 4350 has been a good powder to work with.
*A barrel mounted chronograph can really throw off your bullet depending on the harmonics of the barrel...so don't bother sighting in or testing accuracy with it attached.

 

[Doc Holliday]

What rifle are you using? How long is the barrel?

I started reloading earlier this year, have made 300 wm loads from Hornady, Swift, Sierra, Nosler, & Barnes manuals with a variety of powders, and I have to say, Nosler's most accurate loads (designated by an asteric) in their Reloading Guide #8 have been very close if not on the money for me. On the accubonds, did you very seating depth? You might try buying a box of factory, then if they shoot well, use one to set your seating die.

 

[ramont]

I've had good results with 71.8gr of Reloader 22 under a Berger 180gr VLD.

 

[45-70]

A lot of good answers above.
Consistency rules the day. Change only one thing at a time. Shoot from bench rest to eliminate you as a factor.
Don't bother playing with bullet seating depth unless you have trimmed your cases to the same length.
Primer seating is a big factor and way too often overlooked. Clean & uniform your primer pockets and then work to make sure all primers are seated EXACTLY the same depth.
Use a chronograph. If your velocities are not consistent you cannot shoot consistent groups.
Another overlooked issue is chamber temperature. Once your barrel is up to temp, concentrate on consistent cadence when shooting your groups. The temperature of the powder in the chambered round is crucial. The ambient air temp is not as important. When you chamber a round, the hot barrel is immediately raising the temperature of the powder in the case, which will raise chamber pressure when fired, which will increase velocity and throw your groups. When shooting groups the first thing I do before I get set up is set out my ammunition to it can stabilize to the ambient conditions. Once my barrel is up to temp I start my groups and concentrate on shooting each round within 7 seconds of being chambered. It's the consistency that matters. Each round will be fired at approximately the same temp.

 

[45-70]

I would like to add...

Best groups are almost never found at max velocities.

 

[KINGSNAKE]

Agreed my most accurate loads are almost always not maximum powder charge. I'm not an expert but some guns are easier than others. I have a 260 rem with a hart barrel and I have yet to find a powder or bullet it won't shoot one inch. I have had better loads in other guns but I have never had a more consistent rifle barrel than my Hart. So I could be your rifle. I also had Weatherby vanguard I could never get to shoot better than 1.5 inch groups. Rifle barrels are like bird dogs some have it and some don't.