Rebarreling options for .270 Win

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I appreciate what you are saying. There’s a part of me that wants to just keep it how it is, use it as a backup to my big game rifle, and maybe hand it down when/if my daughter wants a grown up gun.

But I’m not sure I’m that sentimental, and much more importantly, neither is my father in law who gave it to me.

If I barrel it down, I guess I could always put the old barrel back on someday, right?
Yes.
 

N2TRKYS

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I appreciate what you are saying. There’s a part of me that wants to just keep it how it is, use it as a backup to my big game rifle, and maybe hand it down when/if my daughter wants a grown up gun.

But I’m not sure I’m that sentimental, and much more importantly, neither is my father in law who gave it to me.

If I barrel it down, I guess I could always put the old barrel back on someday, right?

It would still have been modified. Do what you want, though.
 

realunlucky

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My sentimental rifle was reconfigured multiple times and had basically been rebuilt into a entirely new rifle. While still special and definitely more purpose built it did lose some of its "soul" along the way.

My advice after the entire experience is buy a new rifle. It's simply cheaper and easier and if it doesn't preform as expected you sell without remorse and start fresh again.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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DawnPatrol
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My sentimental rifle was reconfigured multiple times and had basically been rebuilt into a entirely new rifle. While still special and definitely more purpose built it did lose some of its "soul" along the way.

My advice after the entire experience is buy a new rifle. It's simply cheaper and easier and if it doesn't preform as expected you sell without remorse and start fresh again.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
thanks. That’s kinda what I’m afraid of. How much can I “improve” it before its something totally different.
 
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DawnPatrol
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I chopped, threaded and re scoped a hand me down 22 mag.
It went from safe queen to probably my most carried rifle. No regurts at all.
Getting the barrel threaded for a muzzle brake may be more effective and a better route honestly.


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Tempting. I could cut the barrel a bit, thread and suppress it, and shoot reduced recoil loads.

That would probably be a pretty tame first hunting rifle.

Of course, it would be even tamer with a 25-.06 or similar, assuming I could find reduced recoil ammo.
 

Unckebob

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Howdy everyone! Happy 2023.

I recently inherited my father in law’s Ruger m77 tang safety (1975 vintage) in .270 win. Cool old gun, with lots of family history.

I’d like it to be my daughter’s first big game rifle when she’s ready, but don’t really want to start her out with something as stout as a .270.

What lighter calibers can I rebarrel this gun into without having to change a bunch of stuff with the bolt/magazine etc?

Sorry for the noob question; I tried googling but maybe I’m not using the right terminology.

Thanks!!

Light bullets with less than stout loads. Looking at my load manual, there are light loads with the 130g bullets at 2,600fps range. That is on the low end of what a 6.5CM will do with a 130g bullet.
 
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Have you considered suppression? The suppressor can follow you around to other rifles with zero nostalgia issues, and will reduce recoil too.
 
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I’m loading 100gr Barnes TTSX in my kids’ 6.5x55 Swedish Mausers and the recoil is negligible but they’re killers a long way out there. Very flat shooting at 3,160 FPS.

They practice on prairie dogs and paper or steel with 85 grain Sierra HPs at 3,200 FPS.
 
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Is there enough variety and volume of factor ammo available to make the Swede a good choice for someone who doesn’t reload?
Is there a requirement for the finished rifle to shoot available factory ammo?
If so that would limit long action chambering options.

25-06 that was mentioned earlier would be an easy button. Would only need a new barrel and would be a nostalgic period correct chambering for that vintage rifle. Factory ammo is fairly available.

I’d not recommend a brake for a new hunter, or any hunter really. To hard on the ears.
 
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DawnPatrol
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Is there a requirement for the finished rifle to shoot available factory ammo?
If so that would limit long action chambering options.

25-06 that was mentioned earlier would be an easy button. Would only need a new barrel and would be a nostalgic period correct chambering for that vintage rifle. Factory ammo is fairly available.

I’d not recommend a brake for a new hunter, or any hunter really. To hard on the ears.
Yes. Factory ammo only. Should have lead with that.
 
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The last tube I had installed last year was right near $700. $330 for the tube, $300 contour, chamber and install, $50 shipping, ect… That’s for stainless. I chromoly tube could be cheaper in the white, but then you’d need it blued.

Like others have said, that’s pretty well a new gun.

You’d probably be better served to try some low recoil ammo.

Pac-Nor would be an outfit to call if you decide on a barrel swap.
 
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If you rebarrel the gun you’d likely need to replace the stock or modify the LOP to accommodate a youth/ women. With that amount of money invested you could buy a tikka compact or Ruger american compact or a Camilla. Not to mention unless its a boat paddle stock , those M77’s are tanks to carry in the field.
 
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DawnPatrol
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The last tube I had installed last year was right near $700. $330 for the tube, $300 contour, chamber and install, $50 shipping, ect… That’s for stainless. I chromoly tube could be cheaper in the white, but then you’d need it blued.

Like others have said, that’s pretty well a new gun.

You’d probably be better served to try something like this and if the gun likes it, buy a case and get your girl out practicing.



Pac-Nor would be an outfit to call if you decide on a barrel swap.
Well this may be a Rockslide first: talking someone out of spending lots of money on gun upgrades.

Keeping the same barrel and shooting reduced recoil loads is simple, effective (according to the Chuck Hawks recoil table), cheap, and leaves the gun similar to how I got it.
 

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