rebarrel or cut & thread factory?

[Sled]

I'm trying to decide between the two with a Tikka t3 chambered in 270wsm. it has always been accurate but a little slow and never offered much more over what i could load my 270 win to. i have components and multiple loads developed for this gun with dope confirmed well past hunting distances in its current configuration. i stopped using this gun when i went suppressed on my hunting rifles due to the length of the bbl and not wanting to thread it. to put the suppressor on there i'd want to take 3" off the 24" bbl and further lose fps, putting it closer to the 270 win. money is a concern and will be factored in.

any thoughts?

 

[Wrench]

They usually gain accuracy going shorter if anything. 3 inches will cost you 60-150 fps.

I hate long guns...

 

[Wapiti1]

I'd cut and thread the factory tube. So, what if you only get 270 Win performance. Lot's of people only get 270 Win performance and kill a pile of stuff.

I'd re-barrel to a fast twist if I had notions of shooting the newer high BC bullets. Otherwise, I'd do the above and save the cash.

Jeremy

 

[gregb6]

A couple places do pre-fit for tikka

 

[B23]

The velocity, or lack of, can have a lot to do with your powder choice but irregardless I'd cut it to whatever length you want and have it threaded. Velocity is great and it's fun to talk about but far to much is made of it. A friend once told me lower velocity just means a few more clicks of that nob on top of the scope.

 

[Sled]

With 150gr projectiles I was getting 2800fps with slow powder (imr7828). It kept my 3 shot groups under 2" at 400 so I continued to use it. With 130s going 2950fps I used h4831 and 4350 with again the slower powder being more accurate. I'm wondering if I cut a few inches I'll need a faster powder to keep it shooting flat. At the same time I'll probably try out some hammers since I like the idea of a frangible front end and solid base for a best of both worlds.

Costs wise, I'm probably at $150 for the cut and thread with shipping now that rates are going up. I have no idea what a pre fit would run or which mfg to use but I'd guess I'd be closer to $600 on that end and I'd be tempted to go carbon which would increase the cost.

With the cash I save it might be time to upgrade the trigger on the old Weatherby and find an aftermarket stock...

 

[Wrench]

How are you determining velocity?

 

[Sled]

M

How are you determining velocity?

Magnetospeed is what I used back when I shot this rifle regularly.

 

[Wrench]

Did your long range dope supoort it? I'm surprised its as low as it is. My 270 150lrab is north of 3k.

 

[Sled]

It always fell off around 500 yards but was within 50-75fps validation slower. I quit using it a couple years after due to erroneously high readings that began with the use of a muzzle brake on my 7mm.



The load I shot most in the last two years was 60gr of imr 7828 and validation was 2714fps at 715 yards with tight groups.

When I ran faster powders I'd get flattened primers and stiff bolts earlier than I should have. Velocity was always a bit low even on the high end of noslers book data.

Fwiw, I'm still under 1k rounds on this barrel.

 

[Wrench]

Your dope supports that velocity? Quick load shows 65.5grs at 3123. My 22" 270win does 3031 on 26.

I'm curious if you are getting a legit read and, have you pushed beyond 60grs?

 

[Sled]

Your dope supports that velocity? Quick load shows 65.5grs at 3123. My 22" 270win does 3031 on 26.

I'm curious if you are getting a legit read and, have you pushed beyond 60grs?

The barrel has always been slow and quick to show pressure signs. That is why I considered replacing it. But on the flip side it is accurate. It's just that I can do the same with my 270win. The problem with the win is my wife outshot me with it.

Im sure I've had errant readings with both of my chronos. I'll grab my book later and see what I was getting with the faster powders compared to the Chrono.

 

[B23]

Have you cleaned it really well or possibly borescoped it? Just a thought but it could have developed a carbon ring causing it to show pressure early.

 

[HighUintas]

With 1000 rounds on a 270wsm barrel, I'll probably replace it before cutting threading it

 

[Sled]

With 1000 rounds on a 270wsm barrel, I'll probably replace it before cutting threading it

I'd guess it probably has an EFC of 300 since my velocities are so low.

 

[JoeDirt]

Usually the Tikka barrel doesn't have enough meat for a good 5/8-24 threading job. You have to get creative with face mount styles. I opted for a new barrel tons of options for Tikka. I would go shorter speed isnt everything. My 6.5 creed has a 16" barrel shooting at 2500fps with a can. Not an elk gun but it perfect for deer and antelope.

I have a 6.5 PRC with a 20" barrel thats around 2900 fps with factory ammo. I think your 270wsm would do great at 20". Might have to load slightly faster powder.

My vote, new shorter barrel, faster twist, shoot lighter weight higher BC copper since you're reloading anyways.

 

[Sled]

Usually the Tikka barrel doesn't have enough meat for a good 5/8-24 threading job. You have to get creative with face mount styles. I opted for a new barrel tons of options for Tikka. I would go shorter speed isnt everything. My 6.5 creed has a 16" barrel shooting at 2500fps with a can. Not an elk gun but it perfect for deer and antelope.

I have a 6.5 PRC with a 20" barrel thats around 2900 fps with factory ammo. I think your 270wsm would do great at 20". Might have to load slightly faster powder.

My vote, new shorter barrel, faster twist, shoot lighter weight higher BC copper since you're reloading anyways.

I've been running 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 on my suppressors. I'm a big fan of light weight rifles unless they're meant to be heavy. So I guess it's time to figure out what contour bbl I need to get to 5/8" threads at 20 or 21"? I have not rebarreled a rifle yet. Typically I'll shoot until I get it dialed, hunt a few years with it and move on to another. I usually get a hunt every few years with them which allows me to check my zero and drops so they're in a ready to hunt condition always. This one hasn't come out for a few years due to lack of threads but the thought of a shorter barrel at possibly more fps than I'm getting now has my interest.

Any thoughts on prefit barrels and tools? Looks like midway has some Black Friday sales already started.

 

[JoeDirt]

I've been running 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 on my suppressors. I'm a big fan of light weight rifles unless they're meant to be heavy. So I guess it's time to figure out what contour bbl I need to get to 5/8" threads at 20 or 21"? I have not rebarreled a rifle yet. Typically I'll shoot until I get it dialed, hunt a few years with it and move on to another. I usually get a hunt every few years with them which allows me to check my zero and drops so they're in a ready to hunt condition always. This one hasn't come out for a few years due to lack of threads but the thought of a shorter barrel at possibly more fps than I'm getting now has my interest.

Any thoughts on prefit barrels and tools? Looks like midway has some Black Friday sales already started.

Yeah get a bad ass barrel vice, Tikka is horrible to break loose. I posted on here somewhere what I use and its almost not enough. I bolt everything to my heavy welding table and use a 5# sledge hammer to break the barrel loose. So a good vice and headspace gauges are a must.

I have both pre fits and barrel nut styles. They all work.

Keep in mind the Go vs No go gauges are .010" different so if buying the barrel nut style I like buying a gauge that's tight in the middle of the tolerance (.005") then I tighten the barrel nut to that gauge.