rattle can paint for stock questions- * Updated 11/12/23 *

[KenLee]

This thread inspired me, so I wanted put put up my tikka I just finished. View attachment 537746View attachment 537747

Lookin good!

 

[Trogon]

I used to paint stocks as a side gig. Not all polymer stocks are created equal, that's for certain.
1. Scuff with a brillo pad or similar. Some stocks with more nylon will get fuzzy if you do more.
2. Degrease with your choice of solvent. Denatured alcohol was my preference, but a good soapy water and rinse works well too.
3. Tikka stocks were notorious for the paint not sticking. That is, until I started using the aerosol adhesion promoter spray I found at the local auto store. MUCH better. I then used that on every polymer stock I painted. Result improved significantly. NOTE - my results were based on a lot of stenciled camo patterns where the stenciling would pull the paint. It's unlikely to be noticed if you're just painting the stock with a spraypaint.
4. 2-3 coats. I'd follow the instructions on the can for reapplication times. Multiple light coats are better than fewer heavy coats.
5. If just using a spraypaint, I'd cover with a matte clearcoat just to help protect it from cleaning solvents.

Do you have any recommendations for adding a "McMillan texture" to a stock?

 

[grfox92]

I'm getting ready to paint an x bolt stock, and was planning on using Clear Brownells Alumahyde epoxy over my spray paint job. Just an idea.

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[long hunter]

I done a stock on a 257 BOB a few years back and used the same paint you mention, the process was fairly simple first cleaned the stock using alcohol, then used a green scotch pad to go over the surface of the stock then once again cleaned with alcohol shot the stock let dry has been holding up well. No over coats of anything just the paint, the rifle gets used a good bit and looks like the day I painted it.

 

[RS3579]

Great advice! Now I have a winter project

 

[Big_Sky_Guy]

Here are a couple of mine. Top one is a stock T3 and the bottom is a McMillan Hunter. Both done with Krylon and/or Rust-o-lieum...i dont remember which.

 

[mtwarden]

I haven't found a new paint yet, but definitely not using the textured paint again- while it looked good (and felt good in hand)- it's like fine sand and simply rubs off with use.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Mike,

I used the stone texture paint you did on a rifle this year. It wore terribly bad, even with thorough prep and a clear coat.

I’ve used the sand texture paints from Rustoleum and then over sprayed with the webbing paint. My Kimber still looks really good after a couple years of use.

I do the following:

1. Light sand
2. Degrease with denatured alcohol
3. Self etching primer
4. Paint
5. Webbing
6. Matte clear coat

Minimum 2-3 weeks cure before using.

 

[Unckebob]

Mike,

I used the stone texture paint you did on a rifle this year. It wore terribly bad, even with thorough prep and a clear coat.

I’ve used the sand texture paints from Rustoleum and then over sprayed with the webbing paint. My Kimber still looks really good after a couple years of use.

I do the following:

1. Light sand
2. Degrease with denatured alcohol
3. Self etching primer
4. Paint
5. Webbing
6. Matte clear coat

Minimum 2-3 weeks cure before using.

Where did you get your webbing? I did my AR with webbing years ago and has worn well. Unfortunately, I moved and lost it in the move.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Where did you get your webbing? I did my AR with webbing years ago and has worn well. Unfortunately, I moved and lost it in the move.

I can’t remember if I ordered it off Amazon or bought it at Joann’s. Hobby Lobby or something similar should also have it.

 

[hereinaz]

I have had good luck with camo paints covered with a couple coats of flat clear coat.

I have also been thinking of truck bed or garage floor epoxys that you can roll on and then add texture. The Brownells alumshyde is probably similar but for some reason I don’t feel like messing with that stuff.

 

[mtwarden]

Jason - good info- sand vs stone texture, didn’t know there was a sand- I’ll give that a go- thanks

Yeah stone is a no go

Mike

 

[gulfofmexicoflyfishing]

Southpaw CTR in 6.5 creed. Probably nearing the 30th rifle I have painted. Rapco field drab on the barreled action/scope and Rapco olive khaki/Rustoleum camo tan on the stock. No clear coat as usual

 

[Mcfish]

Thanks to all of the info on this thread, I did my first paint job. Tikka T1X .17 HMR

You can see the 1/2” stock spacer a bit, but the contour difference made it a struggle to blend.

 

[matthewmt]

Southpaw CTR in 6.5 creed. Probably nearing the 30th rifle I have painted. Rapco field drab on the barreled action/scope and Rapco olive khaki/Rustoleum camo tan on the stock. No clear coat as usual

Rapco a vehicle paint, and how has it held up?


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[buffybr]

I've done a half dozen or so in the last 10-15 years.

Like a few others have posted, I clean the stock with alcohol, tape off any part that I don't want painted (like the checkering), then spray on 2 coats of Valspar or Rustoleum of the color that I want. A day later I give the stocks a spider web look with Krylon Marbelizing paint. Practice a few strokes with the Marbelizing paint on a sheet of cardboard to learn the speed of the strokes for the finish that you want. I've never done a clear top coat.

Here's a few that I've done. My 3 Weatherby Vanguards. Top is my .300 Wby with a AA Fancy walnut stock that I built for it, but I hate to take it out in foul weather, so I also fitted a separate Griptonite stock for it.

My .300 Wby with it's foul weather stock.

My Rem 700 7 mm Rem mag that I fitted in a Weatherby Griptonite stock.

My Rem 870 "ugly gun" with new paint and spiderweb.

 

[Mcfish]

I've done a half dozen or so in the last 10-15 years.

Like a few others have posted, I clean the stock with alcohol, tape off any part that I don't want painted (like the checkering), then spray on 2 coats of Valspar or Rustoleum of the color that I want. A day later I give the stocks a spider web look with Krylon Marbelizing paint. Practice a few strokes with the Marbelizing paint on a sheet of cardboard to learn the speed of the strokes for the finish that you want. I've never done a clear top coat.

Here's a few that I've done. My 3 Weatherby Vanguards. Top is my .300 Wby with a AA Fancy walnut stock that I built for it, but I hate to take it out in foul weather, so I also fitted a separate Griptonite stock for it.

My .300 Wby with it's foul weather stock.

My Rem 700 7 mm Rem mag that I fitted in a Weatherby Griptonite stock.

My Rem 870 "ugly gun" with new paint and spiderweb.

Beautiful job!

 

[gulfofmexicoflyfishing]

Rapco a vehicle paint, and how has it held up?


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It has held up great so far. I don’t baby anything, and I rattle can rifles with the understanding that they become more effective camouflage as the paint gets dinged up with time. Mostly I just despise shiny finishes on anything I will be using in the woods. The Rapco paint has held up potentially better than the usual rustoleum camo especially on the scope and barreled action. Seemed to cure nice and hard. A couple small dings on the plastic factory stock but this rifle has spent a lot of time riding around strapped to my pack with a tripod so I am very happy.

I did a few base coats on the barreled action and scope and due to my busy schedule they had about two weeks of cure time before use. The stock only got a single base coat and maybe two days of cure time.

 

[matthewmt]

It has held up great so far. I don’t baby anything, and I rattle can rifles with the understanding that they become more effective camouflage as the paint gets dinged up with time. Mostly I just despise shiny finishes on anything I will be using in the woods. The Rapco paint has held up potentially better than the usual rustoleum camo especially on the scope and barreled action. Seemed to cure nice and hard. A couple small dings on the plastic factory stock but this rifle has spent a lot of time riding around strapped to my pack with a tripod so I am very happy.

I did a few base coats on the barreled action and scope and due to my busy schedule they had about two weeks of cure time before use. The stock only got a single base coat and maybe two days of cure time.

I've painted a lot of guns and always really liked aervoe because of the cure. They're discontinued at this point but it seemed similar to the product you used. Longer dry times but more durable than rust/krylon.
What kind of prep for barreld action? Tikka bluing sucks for surface rust so I've wanted to cerakote it but hard to justify the cost (300$).

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[gulfofmexicoflyfishing]

I've painted a lot of guns and always really liked aervoe because of the cure. They're discontinued at this point but it seemed similar to the product you used. Longer dry times but more durable than rust/krylon.
What kind of prep for barreld action? Tikka bluing sucks for surface rust so I've wanted to cerakote it but hard to justify the cost (300$).

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Aervoe was the Jam! But sadly no more. Rapco is the next best alternative I have found. I just wiped the entire barreled action down with acetone and masked off the bolt raceway and ejection port as well as the holes for the action screws and trigger.