Quick question about broad head tuning

[rkcdvm]

Was going to attempt doing my own broad head tuning this weekend. My shop normally helps me out but I figured since it is so early in the year I would better myself by at least trying to attempt doing it on my own.

I have an ok grasp on moving the arrow rest . If your broadheads are shooting different than your field points, how far is too far apart to move the rest and I should do more tuning to the bow? I figured if the groups are too far apart and you move the rest too much your center shot would be messed up.

Thanks in advance for any insight. Like I said, this is my first attempt to do it myself vs me shooting and my tech messing with the bow.

 

[houghtonic]

Have you shot the bow thru paper? Is it bullet or near bullet hole? If so, just follow the Mathews tuning chart. Basically. If broadheads are hitting left of field points, push the rest left. If they broadheads are hitting low, push rest up. Usually after paper tuning to a bullet hol, fixed broadheads will be within 4” at 20 yards.


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[rkcdvm]

Have you shot the bow thru paper? Is it bullet or near bullet hole? If so, just follow the Mathews tuning chart. Basically. If broadheads are hitting left of field points, push the rest left. If they broadheads are hitting low, push rest up. Usually after paper tuning to a bullet hol, fixed broadheads will be within 4” at 20 yards.


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Sorry, I should have stated that. Yes, bullet hole at 6 feet and verified at 20 yards as well.

 

[houghtonic]

Sorry, I should have stated that. Yes, bullet hole at 6 feet and verified at 20 yards as well.

If it is shooting bullets thru paper, then I’d just start at 10 yards, shoot the broadhead to see where it hits. If it’s close to aim point I’d step back to 20 and shoot the broadhead followed by field point. I’d repeat a couple times, then I’d make my adjustment, if any is needed.

I step back to 30 and repeat, then 40, but for buddies, we just tune out to 20. 30 and 40 is micro tuning. I’ve done tuning out at 60 as well, but only on still days and have to make several rounds of shots to determine if a minute rest adjustment is warranted.


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[Mighty Mouse]

Arrow running level through the Berger hole at 13/16" centershot is the generally recommended starting point. How far you can/should deviate from that point is largely a matter of personal preference.

Mathews recommends 13/16" ± 1/16" for centershot; Hoyt lists a wider acceptable range (5/8" to 1"). I have a bow press at home, so I start at 13/16" and do most of my horizontal tuning by adjusting the cams. Rarely do I need to shift the rest more than 1/16" away from 13/16" centershot. I wouldn't have any qualms about adjusting rest windage further if needed though (as long as it didn't induce vane contact).

Vertical positioning/leveling of the arrow is similarly vague. I start with the arrow dead level running through the middle to upper half of the Berger hole with cams timed as close to dead even as possible. From there I adjust rest elevation and/or d-loop location as needed and can usually get it tuned within ±1/4" of level.

 

[Billy Goat]

Depends on the bow.


If cam shimming is possible, I do that before I move the rest any. Only once you are stuck between 2 shims do I micro adjust the rest windage. Same with a yoke bow, I'll adjust the yokes til it's between twists, then micro adjust if it needs it, wasn't common to need adjustments outside of the yokes.


If it's a bow designed to shoot centered between the axles, I set my loop and leave it. Make all vertical adjustments with the rest, you do need to make sure timing is dead on.


So depends on the bow and the tuning system. I haven't messed with many Elite Set or Bowtech Deadlock, but the few I have I just set centershot and used the system to make needed adjustments for L/R.



A Mathews tends to be very difficult to clean up L/R impacts with rest movement, they really need to be shimmed. Hoyt seems a little more forgiving on it.

 

[rkcdvm]

Finally got out yesterday to shoot and tune. Went into the shop and quickly shot through paper . I was tearing nock high. So I adjusted my rest and shot several times through paper with my coach watching to make sure my form was good. Everything looked fine . Shot again through paper at 18 yards and paper tear was good .

Took my target out and shot broadheads at 20 and they flew together . Walk back every 10 yards out to 50 and they all flew together without adjustment . I was kind of hoping I could mess with stuff just a little bit so I could get the experience of tuning myself but I’m certainly not going to complain that they flew with fieldpoints right out of the gate .

I did learn a good lesson though from my coach. He said it’s good that I wanted someone to check my form while shooting , but I really need to start trusting that I’m shooting with good form too.
They did say that if I wanted to hang out on the weekends they would teach me some stuff about setting up and tuning a bow . I think I’m going to take them up on that offer .
Everyone, thank you for the advice. I still have one more bow to tune. Having to wait because my limb split while at full draw the other day. Fortunately Mathews is replacing all of the limbs .

 

[Beendare]

Its worth noting, sometimes on a paper tune you over shoot…which makes the rest adjustment recommendations the opposite Of what it should be.

I would follow Mighty Mouses and Billy Goats recommendations….just know that perfect tune is never more than 1/8” off of mnfrs spec. On mine, its usually no more than a 1/16”. Best to move in 1/32” increments.

If you just keep moving in one direction with the same result….go back to mnfr spec and go the other way a smidge.

 

[sconnieVLP]

Finally got out yesterday to shoot and tune. Went into the shop and quickly shot through paper . I was tearing nock high. So I adjusted my rest and shot several times through paper with my coach watching to make sure my form was good. Everything looked fine . Shot again through paper at 18 yards and paper tear was good .

Took my target out and shot broadheads at 20 and they flew together . Walk back every 10 yards out to 50 and they all flew together without adjustment . I was kind of hoping I could mess with stuff just a little bit so I could get the experience of tuning myself but I’m certainly not going to complain that they flew with fieldpoints right out of the gate .

I did learn a good lesson though from my coach. He said it’s good that I wanted someone to check my form while shooting , but I really need to start trusting that I’m shooting with good form too.
They did say that if I wanted to hang out on the weekends they would teach me some stuff about setting up and tuning a bow . I think I’m going to take them up on that offer .
Everyone, thank you for the advice. I still have one more bow to tune. Having to wait because my limb split while at full draw the other day. Fortunately Mathews is replacing all of the limbs .

I think just losing the fear of tinkering with your bow is the most important step. I had a terrible experience at a shop this past fall and that led to me being fed up enough to just go buy the stuff I needed to do my own work. I realized that I already do all my own work on my guns and reload, that’s WAY more dangerous than working on a bow.

The beauty of doing this stuff today is that there is guaranteed to be a YouTube video or article on the internet covering exactly what you need to know. John Dudley has a whole video series on setup and tuning that I watched. I’m no super skilled bow tech, but I did a whole bow setup from the box to shooting bullet holes from watching YouTube. I just had to get over being worried about screwing something up.

 

[rkcdvm]

I think just losing the fear of tinkering with your bow is the most important step. I had a terrible experience at a shop this past fall and that led to me being fed up enough to just go buy the stuff I needed to do my own work. I realized that I already do all my own work on my guns and reload, that’s WAY more dangerous than working on a bow.

The beauty of doing this stuff today is that there is guaranteed to be a YouTube video or article on the internet covering exactly what you need to know. John Dudley has a whole video series on setup and tuning that I watched. I’m no super skilled bow tech, but I did a whole bow setup from the box to shooting bullet holes from watching YouTube. I just had to get over being worried about screwing something up.

That's a very good point. I started setting up my own rifles many years ago and I am glad I did. For the most part it is pretty easy. One of the main reasons I didn't have the motivation to do my own work on my bow is because I live in an apartment and don't have a place to have a little shop. However, I thought about asking my family that lives close by to see if I could set up a small area in their garage . If anything it would be a way I could go socialize more often.

 

[sconnieVLP]

That's a very good point. I started setting up my own rifles many years ago and I am glad I did. For the most part it is pretty easy. One of the main reasons I didn't have the motivation to do my own work on my bow is because I live in an apartment and don't have a place to have a little shop. However, I thought about asking my family that lives close by to see if I could set up a small area in their garage . If anything it would be a way I could go socialize more often.

I also live in a small apartment, my tools/supplies go in a plastic tote that get locked up in my storage cage in the basement of the building. I have everything but a bow press, fortunately the range I belong to has one.

I’ll buy a press when I move again, planning on mounting it to a 2x6 and then using some clamps to attach it to my dinner table or countertop when I need to use it.

I’ll admit it’s kind of a pain having to pull everything out when I need it, but it’s better than not having a clue as to the capability of the bow tech you’re handing your stuff off to. I think having a far deeper understanding of my equipment has made me a better shooter as well, particularly as I learned how different aspects interacted with each other.