Quick drop question/idea

[Big_wals]

So I finally got my first mil scope a couple moths ago and started learning quick drop. It has been an absolute game changer! My current load from a 223 is an 80 eldm at around 2550 fps. That puts me at quick drop plus four tenths. For example at say 380 yards, I dial 1.8 plus another .4, for a total of 2.2 mils.

My question is, why not just zero my rifle, dial up another .4, amd then slip the turret back to zero? I get that the math is easy to do, but it would eliminate one step and a possible source of error. I’m not necessarily planning on doing it, just thought it was an interesting idea and wondered what ya’ll would say.

Edited to add this would be strictly for shooting 0 to 400 yards with a 223. I realize the correction from base line quick drop will change from .4 mils at longer range, not planning on shooting much farther than that with this rifle.

 

[wapitibob]

Why don't you just range it, dial it, and shoot it?

 

[Big_wals]

Why don't you just range it, dial it, and shoot it?

Thats what I do? Can you elaborate what exactly you mean?

 

[Macintosh]

I think in most cases people dont do this because the correction factor isnt perfectly linear from zero to max range, and then it sort of prevents you from using the exact turret measurement at longer range. I know my rifle for instance I dont need to correct the quick drop “formula” until past 400 yards, but past some range (500 or whatever) I use my app for a real dope and plug the exact figure in. Im a rank beginner at this though so take with a grain of salt, but thats what Ive been doing.

It’d certainly be easy to test though. Why not try it for yourself?

 

[AZ_Hunter]

Why don't you just range it, dial it, and shoot it?

Yeah, I’m not following the point.

If you are dialing anyway, why not just dial to the correct number?

 

[Big_wals]

I think in most cases people dont do this because the correction factor isnt perfectly linear from zero to max range, and then it sort of prevents you from using the exact turret measurement at longer range. I know my rifle for instance I dont need to correct the quick drop “formula” until past 400 yards, but past some range (500 or whatever) I use my app for a real dope and plug the exact figure in. Im a rank beginner at this though so take with a grain of salt, but thats what Ive been doing.

It’d certainly be easy to test though. Why not try it for yourself?

I should have made it clear in the op, this would be for 400 yards and in with a 223. Much past 400 and the .4 mil correction starts to not line up, but I’m not going to shoot past that range anyway. With my .243 I will do same as you, quick drop with whatever correction is needed, and then use a ballistics calculator past that.

Yeah, I’m not following the point.

If you are dialing anyway, why not just dial to the correct number?

It would just eliminate a little mental math for 0 to 400 yards with a 223. I would still be dialing to the correct number, but the correction from basic quick drop would already be done.

 

[NSI]

You have stumbled onto the concept of drop scale factor (speed drop BDC Turret method).

Here’s an explanation of how to take this to the next level by dialing in the full correction and building a synthetic BDC for your load:

Finding your Speed Drop Factor

Follow Sniper's Hide and pick up the latest information on all things precision rifle-related. Sniper's Hide Training is for the serious tactical marksman.

www.snipershide.com

-J

 

[Formidilosus]

I should have made it clear in the op, this would be for 400 yards and in with a 223. Much past 400 and the .4 mil correction starts to not line up, but I’m not going to shoot past that range anyway. With my .243 I will do same as you, quick drop with whatever correction is needed, and then use a ballistics calculator past that.

It would just eliminate a little mental math for 0 to 400 yards with a 223. I would still be dialing to the correct number, but the correction from basic quick drop would already be done.

But now you are .4 mil high at closer ranges. As @NSI posted that is along the path to Speed Drop. But it and Speed Drop have cons when actually used. Namely, you now have different systems for zeroing.

 

[Big_wals]

But now you are .4 mil high at closer ranges. As @NSI posted that is along the path to Speed Drop. But it and Speed Drop have cons when actually used. Namely, you now have different systems for zeroing.

As far as being .4 high at closer ranges, that wouldn’t bother me too much. I grew up sighting in rifles a little high at 100, your dead on at 200, hold top of back at 300. Or whatever looks like 300. You know that type only started getting serious with my shooting in the last couple years. But yeah, I probably wont do it, just had an idea and wondered what guys thought of it. Kinda like sighting in .75 moa to the left to account for spin drift at long range. Is it a good idea in theory? Yep, makes sense. Will I actually do it? Nope, probably not.

 

[Formidilosus]

Kinda like sighting in .75 moa to the left to account for spin drift at long range. Is it a good idea in theory? Yep, makes sense. Will I actually do it? Nope, probably not.

I’m not sure it’s even a good idea in theory, but it isn’t in real life. Neither is zero high.

Zero spot on 100 yards, add .4 mil to base past 300 yards.

 

[Big_wals]

I’m not sure it’s even a good idea in theory, but it isn’t in real life. Neither is zero high.

Zero spot on 100 yards, add .4 mil to base past 300 yards.

10-4, thanks!